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Old 03-20-03, 05:08 AM   #1
bikerdave
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Seat jammed in seatpost

I had went to adjust my saddle the other day on my winter bike a little bit forward but the tightenscrew underneath is solid and is not turning at all.

It been riden right through winter in the rain/salty roads so dont think this has done it good.It a decent post(dura-ace) and I dont really want to force it and damage it.

Ive tried sprayed some WD-40 and leaving it to try and then trying again but still no joy.Any ideas?..........or is it time to get the saw?
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Old 03-20-03, 09:52 AM   #2
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Keep on with the WD-40 for a week or so, it may take some time to work.
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Old 03-20-03, 11:50 AM   #3
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Try this link, if it helps: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck_seatposts.html
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Old 03-20-03, 02:42 PM   #4
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Is there anything about bikes that Sheldon doesn't have a webpage on?
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Old 03-20-03, 04:13 PM   #5
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unfortunately he doesn't cover quite everything, but I have got more REAL help from his web pages than from any other single source of information - and his hints do not require expensive and exotic equipment and methods.
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Old 03-20-03, 09:56 PM   #6
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but......
if I read dave's prob right, it isn't the seatpost, it's a bolt holding the saddle mounting to the seatpost. I bet if he follows MichaelW's advice, dave will prevail.
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Old 03-21-03, 06:14 AM   #7
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First, if you can't loosen the seatpost bolt, then cut it and remove it. The easiest way is to get a disc cutting tool that mounts on a hand drill. Run the disc in the slot of the seatpost collar to cut the bolt.

WD-40 is OK, but I find that Liquid Wrench works better for freeing up frozen parts.

Next, check to see if the seatpost and the post-tube are the same metal. If the post is aluminum and the frame is steel or visa-versa and you can't get it to move, give up.

Keep the saddle on the seatpost. If you can at least get the seatpost to move by turning the nose of the saddle, you have a chance.

Sit on the floor and put the bike on your lap. Have the saddle in your hands. Put your feet on the inside of the frame - one foot on the down-tube and one on the chain-stay. Use your whole body strength to pull on the saddle while you twist it back and forth.

If you have children, don't let them be around you when you do this... You don't want them to repeat what they hear from you.
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Old 03-21-03, 07:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by mike

If you have children, don't let them be around you when you do this... You don't want them to repeat what they hear from you.
Nor see the blood spewing from you as the seatpost comes loose explosively, and smacks you full on the chin.

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Old 03-21-03, 09:20 PM   #9
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Then apply a thin cost of grease to the post before reinstalling it, unless it is carbon fibre.
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Old 03-21-03, 09:34 PM   #10
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automotive garages used to keep a tool called an "impact wrench" that when you hit it real hard with a hammer it turned the screw or nut just a little bit. the hard and longer you hit it the more you turned the screw.
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Old 03-22-03, 01:59 AM   #11
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MIKE is right, Liquid Wrench is far superior to loosening bolts than WD-40 is. But as Sheldon Brown mentioned IF this is a aluminum to aluminum situation then you have to use ammonia to dissolve the oxidation that has chemically welded the parts together-Liquid Wrench will not work in this situation. But I believe your having a bolt problem and not a post in the frame problem, and most bolts are steel therefore Liquid Wrench is your answer-hopefully!
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Old 03-23-03, 01:22 PM   #12
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Hi guys, I must have been in a rush when sending this post as it seems a bit of confusion between what I was saying in the title that was in the post.Anyway, it was the bolt holding the saddle that I was talking about.

I had mangaed to get the bolt off after spraying wd40 on it for a few days.

cheers
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