Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 30
  1. #1
    Walmart partner spiderbike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    565
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    really hard to remove bottom bracket

    I'm trying to replace my bottom bracket after taking no care for it in five years but can't get it off the bike...I have shimano cartridge bottom bracket but just can't get enough tourque to turn the spindle.

    I have been turning it away from the front of the bike but have no success, are there any tips for loosening and removing bracket.


  2. #2
    Commuter First newbojeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,286
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Lots of stuff posted here already. Try searching. Also, this thread.

  3. #3
    All ur bike r belong Enki james_swift's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    San Fransicko
    Posts
    816
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Use the right tool. Get yourself a 25" breaker bar. Remove the wheels and place the frame (driveside facing you) on a non-slip surface (carpet) up against a wall for support. With your left foot on the chainstays, hold the socket head (I'm using a Nashbar BB socket) firmly in place with your left hand, and push down on the breaker bar with your right hand clockwise (yes, we're removing the drive-side first). You should hear a crack as the bottom bracket gives way.

    So why remove the drive side first? Personally, I do it this way for 2 reasons:

    1.) I once had to tackle a rusted/seized BB. I used a 300lb/ft air *** on the non-drive side. No go. After nearly ripping the lockring to shreds with the airgun, I decided to have a go at the drive side. Bingo. Once th drive-side came out, the non-drive side was less reluctant.

    2.) Tackling the drive-side first puts you in a position where you can push down with the breaker bar (clockwise to remove), as opposed to pulling up on the non-drive side. You can put all of your weight into the bar in this position.

    I really recommend the breaker bar. I have one in my tool kit along with my Nashbar BB socket.

  4. #4
    Your mom
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,546
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'll second the breaker bar application - my favorite trick. ALso use some PB Blaster. There's the bench vise trick - look it up on the forum. And you may be turning the wrong way - BB drive side loosens clockwise, toward the front of the bike. Good luck.

  5. #5
    Senior Member onbike 1939's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Fife Scotland
    My Bikes
    Airnimal Chameleon; Ellis Briggs; Moulton TSR27
    Posts
    1,896
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The OP talks about the "spindle" and I'm not sure I grasp the problem in that case. Does he really mean the threaded cups?

  6. #6
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,896
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by spiderbike
    I have been turning it away from the front of the bike but have no success, are there any tips for loosening and removing bracket.
    English (most) bottom brackets have left hand threads on the drive side. That means you have to turn it clockwise to take it off.

  7. #7
    New Orleans
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    2,508
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Double Check Direction On The Right Side

    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    English (most) bottom brackets have left hand threads on the drive side. That means you have to turn it clockwise to take it off.
    Take retrogrouch's advice and double check the direction you are trying to unscrew it. The right side-where the chainrings- is bass ackwards. It screws off the wrong friggin' way-go clockwise while looking at it to get it off-just like you were screwing in a normal screw, or nut.
    It is counter intuitive-you would think that screwing off that direction would make it prone to loosening, but because the ball bearing reverse the direction of the crank/spindle turning, they actually tighten it.
    Luck,Charlie
    PS-Don't ask why I emphasize this -you can guess!!

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    SO CA
    My Bikes
    '79 Univega Sport Tour (not stock). Mid 80's Benotto, bring back to life. Mid 80's Univega Alpina Ultima (needs TLC, still built strong). Trek 400. Specialized Globe. DS Expert Ironman. Schwinn World Sport (soon to be a SS).
    Posts
    189
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There may be a screw that holds a plastic cable guide to the outside of the bottom bracket shell. Sometimes those screws penetrate completely through the bottom bracket shell and onto the surface of the cartridge. It makes it much more difficult to remove the cartridge bb when the screw is in the way.

  9. #9
    crusty jbrians's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Guelph, ON
    My Bikes
    Giant Kronos, Miele Appolo, Miele 12 spd, Diamondback Hybrid
    Posts
    309
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    This is a quote from a previous thread on the topic.
    I tried everything, as did my local LBS but no go. It was finally the application of heat from an acetylene torch that worked. The BB was cherry red in one small area. Don't try this on an AL frame or you will be looking for a new one.
    Around and around we go!

  10. #10
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Beaufort, South Carolina, USA and surrounding islands.
    My Bikes
    Cannondale R500, Motobecane Messenger
    Posts
    8,522
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You may want to try a propane tourch to heat and expand the shell some.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

  11. #11
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    4,955
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'd use a breaker bar with caution. The splined lip on Shimano BB's has a tendency to tear off in my experience. Slow, steady pressure with lots of T9/PB Blaster. Sometimes a good fast blow from a hammer will do some good but you do risk tearing that splined interface off.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  12. #12
    Fred
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boston, PRM
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Super Sp0rt, Trek hybrid, eBike, Xootr
    Posts
    273
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have the Park bottom bracket tool for the Shimano BB. They suggest using a bolt to hold the tool in the bearing cup if it is difficult to remove. I'm working on the left, non-drive side and turning it counter-clockwise - it's marked with an arrow for "Tighten".

    I measured the bolt that holds the crank on and it's about 8mm in diameter and 15 mm long. I measured from the top of the tool to the bottom of the hole in the axle and it's about 55 mm. But I doubt you could thread the bolt in all the way to the bottom of that hole.

    Of course, I don't have such a bolt handy. Is there a recommended length?

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,750
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Garandman
    I measured the bolt that holds the crank on and it's about 8mm in diameter and 15 mm long. I measured from the top of the tool to the bottom of the hole in the axle and it's about 55 mm. But I doubt you could thread the bolt in all the way to the bottom of that hole.

    Of course, I don't have such a bolt handy. Is there a recommended length?
    The bolt you need is an M8x1.0 mm. This is a finer thread than the more common M8x1.25 bolts but most good hardware or home supply stores should have them. Certainly an industrial supply shop will.

    The length you need is 40 mm although a 50 mm bolt will work if you add a couple of washers to take up the excess length.

  14. #14
    Fred
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boston, PRM
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Super Sp0rt, Trek hybrid, eBike, Xootr
    Posts
    273
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Great, thanks!
    For the fine pitch bolt, for those in the Boston area, Metric Screw and Tool in Wakefield has just about anything you could want. http://www.metricscrew-toolco.com/ But I'll try some industrial hardware stores first.

    Doesn't feel like it needs replacing, but out of curiousity I looked up what a Shimano cartridge bottom bracket costs - $25 at Harris Cyclery.

  15. #15
    delicious 40x14's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    nyc downtown
    My Bikes
    The one under my bum.
    Posts
    317
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    The bolt you need is an M8x1.0 mm. This is a finer thread than the more common M8x1.25 bolts but most good hardware or home supply stores should have them. Certainly an industrial supply shop will.
    Autozone, Pep boys, RSStraus, most auto parts store usually have a good supply and selection of bolts for around $3-4/box. Sometimes you can even get high-grade stainless steel bolts, screws, and nuts. I once found a nut for a campy derailleur at autozone when I was in a pinch. They definitely have the M8, industrial supply shop probably has more selection though. Anyone know a good ISS in lower manhattan?

  16. #16
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,295
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by jbrians
    This is a quote from a previous thread on the topic.
    I tried everything, as did my local LBS but no go. It was finally the application of heat from an acetylene torch that worked. The BB was cherry red in one small area. Don't try this on an AL frame or you will be looking for a new one.
    You should post the rest of that thread. This quote is out of context.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  17. #17
    Fred
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boston, PRM
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Super Sp0rt, Trek hybrid, eBike, Xootr
    Posts
    273
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    If it's still a no-go, do folks ever dremel out the BB? If you buy a new Shimano cartridge, it appears they come with new nuts, or?

  18. #18
    mousse de chocolat Moose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Northeast Ohio, USA
    My Bikes
    Soma Double Cross, Raleigh Rush Hour, Fuji America Fixed, "Modernized" Gitane
    Posts
    1,135
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Never resort to destructive means of removal before having a professional take a crack at removing it.

  19. #19
    Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    San Francisco
    My Bikes
    Peugeot PX-10, Spitz cyclocross, Specialized RockCombo, Bridgestone MB-1, Trek 720
    Posts
    37
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Get the right tools!

    I second the recommendation for using a long bolt to hold the bottom bracket tool on tightly...there's just no way to do it by hand. If your spindle is hollow you can get a really long one and bolt it to the opposite end...if it's not hollow you'll obviously screw it in where the pedal would go. I bought a couple different length bolts so I'd be ready for different lenght spindles. Then I bought an extra big wrench that would fit the bottom bracket tool and a rubber mallet.

    With the bike on the floor I held it in place against a shoulder and carefully whacked the end of the wrench with the mallet. Worked like a charm! And it gave me such a sense of satisfaction b/c the night before I struggled with that thing for an hour with no results.

    Get the right tools! I think if you can unscrew the bottom bracket by hand (using a wrench of course) then it probably wasn't fitted tightly enough in the first place.

  20. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    387
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by geedubbayoo
    I second the recommendation for using a long bolt to hold the bottom bracket tool on tightly...there's just no way to do it by hand. If your spindle is hollow you can get a really long one and bolt it to the opposite end...if it's not hollow you'll obviously screw it in where the pedal would go. I bought a couple different length bolts so I'd be ready for different lenght spindles. Then I bought an extra big wrench that would fit the bottom bracket tool and a rubber mallet.

    With the bike on the floor I held it in place against a shoulder and carefully whacked the end of the wrench with the mallet. Worked like a charm! And it gave me such a sense of satisfaction b/c the night before I struggled with that thing for an hour with no results.

    Get the right tools! I think if you can unscrew the bottom bracket by hand (using a wrench of course) then it probably wasn't fitted tightly enough in the first place.
    An alternative to a long bolt, and actually really useful for how ghetto it is, is the proper threaded axle with a couple locknuts on it.... Usually easier to find than a long bolt.

  21. #21
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    My Bikes
    Mercian King, Tommasini Tecno, Peugeot Fixie, Gitane Tandem, Bridgestone MB-4, Homebuilt Human Powered Truck, franken-1900's style roadster
    Posts
    49
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Of course, if it's Italian, (you can tell because the dimensions on the fixed cup are in Metric units) then the fixed cup is right threaded, i.e. lefty-loosey

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    203
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    if you going to use a breaker bar, make sure you bolt the tool into the cup (crank bolt, washer and nut) you may have to switch to an open ended spanner.

    holding the tool in with your hand just doesnt work, and youll just risk ripping the teeth off the cup...

  23. #23
    Fred
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Boston, PRM
    My Bikes
    1983 Schwinn Super Sp0rt, Trek hybrid, eBike, Xootr
    Posts
    273
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The local hardware store didn't have a 8x1.25 40mm bolt, but HD had a 50. It took 5 5/16" flat washers to space it out.

    I measure the OD of the tool and it's 32mm. I have a BMF wrench at work I'm going to try on it. I've been hitting it with penetrant for a week as well.

    If that does'nt work, I'm going to try the drive side as suggested above. If all else fails, I'll cut it in a couple of places with the Dremel as I'm planning to replace the cartridge anyway.

  24. #24
    mousse de chocolat Moose's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Northeast Ohio, USA
    My Bikes
    Soma Double Cross, Raleigh Rush Hour, Fuji America Fixed, "Modernized" Gitane
    Posts
    1,135
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I just don't see how using a dremel is useful in this situation...

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Posts
    727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Garandman
    I measure the OD of the tool and it's 32mm. I have a BMF wrench at work I'm going to try on it. I've been hitting it with penetrant for a week as well.
    Skip the wrench. Clamp the tool in a bench-vise and use the frame as your lever. Just make sure you turn the correct direction.
    i ride bikes.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •