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Shimano 105 Problematic Shifting

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Old 10-08-06, 06:18 AM
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Shimano 105 Problematic Shifting

Hi All

I just bought a new Koga Miyata Globe Traveller race with shimano 105 all round. The bike is as great as advertised but since I got it the front shifting has never been smooth - namely getting the chain 'off' the smallest gear into the middle one requires 2 or three tries with the shifter, often lifting onto top gear and then shifting back ot the middle one. The front shifter is also quite stiff (exactly as described in another thread in this forum - 'Shimano 105 left shifter is hard to shift?' (https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-230727.html)

The range of 'rattle free' front and rear combinations seems unusually small compared with other bikes I've had in the past. I've tries adjusting the tension, getting it serviced by the retailer etc. They managed to inprove it a bit by increasing the cable tension but it was at the cost of descreasing the 'rattle free' range. It only took 2 days for the shifting problem to return.

I am a bit disappointed by the shifting and am now at the point where I am considering replacing the whole lot with, say Ultegra/XT front-rear combination, including shifters.

Has anyone had similar experiences or can suggest something I can try to improve this ? What about my idea of changing the group sets - is this an option ? Advisable ?

Any comments would be very much appreciated, as I really like the bike and would love to get this problem solved. Thanks !
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Old 10-08-06, 06:37 AM
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Any new bike will need cable adjustment after a few miles. Either learn how to adjust or open up your wallet at your LBS. Nothing wrong with 105.
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Old 10-08-06, 06:59 AM
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learn how to adjust

Hi capwater

Thanks for the reply. Just to put you in the picture, I've been adjusting derailleur cables on a fairly regular basis since about 1975. I think I've got a reasonable idea of what a cable stretch problem feels like which is why I was soliciting advice. Your comment that there's 'nothing wrong with 105' is usefull though.

Thanks
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Old 10-08-06, 07:01 AM
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My 105 has been nothing but smooth and reliable. Is it a double or tiple?
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Old 10-08-06, 07:05 AM
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105 shifting

The reviews definitely bear you out anyway . . .

https://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/dr...x.aspx#reviews
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Old 10-08-06, 07:08 AM
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- one [to some] downside of a triple is the potential of a decreased range of cogs available on a particular chainring... take a look at your ride's chainline in different gearing to get a better idea of your setup's range... most likely proper placement (alignment) and adjustment of the front derailleur will give you the best range...

- FWIW, i have 105 in use on a couple bikes, and the stuff works just fine...
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Old 10-08-06, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by barba
My 105 has been nothing but smooth and reliable. Is it a double or tiple?
- note that the OP states:

getting the chain 'off' the smallest gear into the middle one

- so i assumed triple?
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Old 10-08-06, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by linux_author
- note that the OP states:

getting the chain 'off' the smallest gear into the middle one

- so i assumed triple?
Thanks. Not enough coffee yet on a Sunday for good reading comprehension, apparently.
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Old 10-08-06, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by barba
Thanks. Not enough coffee yet on a Sunday for good reading comprehension, apparently.
- hey, i'm still working on my first cup!

:-)

- on_topic: for the OP, here's a link to proper adjustment for the front derailleur:

Calvin's advice
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Old 10-08-06, 07:30 AM
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105

It's a triple.
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Old 10-08-06, 07:33 AM
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thanks for the link linux - Ill definitely go through that with a fine toothcomb !
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Old 10-08-06, 07:35 AM
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Does the ratcheting of the shifter work smoothly when there is no tension on the cable (not connected to the FD)? I would check to make sure that the shifter itself is working smoothly and then follow the Park instructions form the beginning to end.
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Old 10-08-06, 08:05 AM
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Does the ratcheting of the shifter work smoothly when there is no tension on the cable (not connected to the FD)?
Yes, is seems to be fine. The problem seems to be that there is such a tiny tension range where the chain lifts cleanly off the small (high) gear onto hte middle cog - 2-3 clicks leaves it on the small cog with a loud rattle, one more click send sit onto the biggest (low) gear, overshooting the middle one. One click backwards gets it on target. Thats how I have been shifting from the small to the middle for the last month.

Even when it's fixed (e.g. I let the retailer fix the cable tensioning etc the other day) it can improve this particular problem but then other ranges become unreliable.

Many thanks for all the replies so far. It definitely has improved my comfidence that the problem isn't inherent in the 105 set. I'm going to go through the parks document and check everything on the bike again.
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Old 10-08-06, 08:14 AM
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My Trek Portland (ahhh the evil Trek) comes with stock 105, except for the FD, which is Ultegra. That struck me as a little odd. I'd characterize the front shifting as good (not flawless) after initial chain stretch adjustments, but I'm usually moving between the middle and big ring. I stay away from crosschained combinations, but when I'm getting close, I can 1/2 shift the FD to avoid rattling (e.g., 1 click instead of 2 clicks that would move the chain from the big chainring to the middle).

That is a good looking bike, BTW.
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Old 10-09-06, 08:40 AM
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Shimano triples have four (4) main positions for the front derailleur. The middle two positions are on either side of the middle ring. When shifting from the smallest chainring to the middle you need to give the big shifter (brake lever) a good shove, past the first full click and on to the second. One big shove should do it. If the chain is running on the left side of the cassette it may be necessary to shift back to the second position, to the left of the middle ring, to avoid chainrub. The third position can be used to avoid chainrub when the chain is on the middle ring and the right side of the cassette. The fourth position is for the big ring.
When shifting from the smallest ring to the middle ring if you overshift to the big ring you probably have too much cable tension. You really don't need much cable tension to make it work right.
In addition to the four main positions there is some soft trimming available.
Shimano triples are easier to operate once you understand that there are two positions for the middle chainring, not one.
Ultegra triples work the same way as 105, the only Ultegra advantage is weight.

Al
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Old 10-10-06, 05:33 PM
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triples

Hi Al

Many thanks for the illuminating piece of info. It does start to explain things a bit. I will definitely bear that in mind when looking into it.

Thanks again !

pete
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Old 10-10-06, 06:43 PM
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One thing comes to mind that I did'nt see among all the good advice. If the cable is routed incorrectly at the clamp bolt the der. will not function correctly.
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