French Thread Crank Extractor
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French Thread Crank Extractor
Does such a thing still exsist. I need to get the cranks off an old french bike for a paint job and my normal extrator doesn't thread on, it's slightly too big. Does anyone know what size I need or have any alternatives? Thanks.
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I now you didn't do a search.
You need either a Stronglight puller or a T.A. puller, depending on your crank. I have both and the threads appear to be identical. Confused? Me too!.
You need either a Stronglight puller or a T.A. puller, depending on your crank. I have both and the threads appear to be identical. Confused? Me too!.
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There is a difference between the Stronglight and the T.A. The T.A. is a loose fit in the Stronglight and will pull the threads before it will pull the crank.
Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller.
Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller.
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Not sure what crank you have but here are some links.
https://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=VR-393
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...tem_id=SN-STEX
"Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller."
Rabid Koala, I've never heard that before. Sounds a little sketchy, but I like it.
https://sheldonbrown.com/velos.html
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...item_id=VR-393
https://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cg...tem_id=SN-STEX
"Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller."
Rabid Koala, I've never heard that before. Sounds a little sketchy, but I like it.
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The cranks are nervar star... Any idea which of the two pullers will work with this.
Last edited by seaneee; 10-04-06 at 12:12 AM.
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ask these guys.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/bbopt.html
https://www.yellowjersey.org/bbopt.html
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller.
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Originally Posted by operator
That's a good way of ruining a crank without doing anything. The cranks aren't going to come off without the puller if it was actually put on properly in the first place.
If riding with loosened crank bolts doesn't work, then how would the crank be ruined?
Any damage I could think of would be done by the interaction of a loose crank and the spindle... which indicates success since the crank will be loose. If the crank doesn't come loose, then there should be no damage that I can think of.
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
There is a difference between the Stronglight and the T.A. The T.A. is a loose fit in the Stronglight and will pull the threads before it will pull the crank.
Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller.
Perhaps the poor man's method would work: Loosen (don't remove) the crank bolt and take a quick hard ride around the block. Sometimes that is enough to loosen the crank so you can pull it without the puller.
My calipers say there's no difference in the thread diameter. The T.A. puller has the T.A. logo. I bought the Stronglight puller when I bought my '74 PX10. They shouldn't be the same, but they are. I can't explain it. I haven't used the T.A. puller yet. I got it from The Yellow Jersey. Velo Orange just got in some VAR pullers.
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I have the same cranks on my old Bottechia and have the Nervar crank tool, bought near the time I got the bike(approx. 1970)-if you weren't on the opposite coast I'd be more than happy to loan it to you. It or a reasonable sub should be available at a good, long established shop. Good luck in the search.
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crankpullers for T.A arms are 23mm.
crankpullers for Stronglight arms are 23.15mm.
This does not guarantee that a puller made BY T.A or Stronglight will correspond with their crankarms' specifications all the time...I suppose.
I (and many others) have used the more common TA puller (carefully) in stronglight cranks. I wouldn't make a habit of it though, and not on very stubborn cranks.
- Joel
crankpullers for Stronglight arms are 23.15mm.
This does not guarantee that a puller made BY T.A or Stronglight will correspond with their crankarms' specifications all the time...I suppose.
I (and many others) have used the more common TA puller (carefully) in stronglight cranks. I wouldn't make a habit of it though, and not on very stubborn cranks.
- Joel
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Originally Posted by operator
That's a good way of ruining a crank without doing anything. The cranks aren't going to come off without the puller if it was actually put on properly in the first place.
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Originally Posted by seaneee
The cranks are nervar star... Any idea which of the two pullers will work with this.
The chainring BCD is the oddball dimension with these, not the crank puller threads.
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Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
Nervar cotterless cranks use standard 22 mm extractors, same as modern cranks.
The chainring BCD is the oddball dimension with these, not the crank puller threads.
The chainring BCD is the oddball dimension with these, not the crank puller threads.
Thanks for all the info, I'll keep you posted...
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FYI, a site called unicycle.com still sells the old Park 22/23mm crank pullers for $14.00. I emailed to confirm. Just ordered mine, I'll let you know if it's right when I get it.
Oh, yeah, and even though REI says they sell it, they don't. It's the new version.
Oh, yeah, and even though REI says they sell it, they don't. It's the new version.
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That's a ccp-1 I ordered one of those from a Canadian site. They thought they were doing me a favor by sending me the newer ccp-2, which is 22mm only. When I pointed out the error, they refunded my money and told me to keep the tool. Velo Orange is selling the VAR #393 at a good price (for a VAR tool).
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Originally Posted by Rabid Koala
Here's my source for that little bit of information:
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*deleted*
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1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
1971 Paramount P-13 Chrome
1973 Paramount P-15 Opaque Blue
1974 Raleigh Professional Blue Mink
1991 Waterford Paramount
Holland Titanium Dura Ace Group
Holland Titanium Ultegra Triple Group
Last edited by Rabid Koala; 10-14-06 at 10:08 AM.