Threw the chain on the S/S
10-13-06, 10:14 AM
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Threw the chain on the S/S
Hey the chain came off on the single speed is this a problem due to not tensioned properly
10-13-06, 10:58 AM
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Probably but it might also be due to a bad chainline.
10-13-06, 11:59 AM
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52T front 18T Back it is a Nishiki road bike original chain from some 30 years ago I just shortened it if you want I can give you a picture of the chain line etc
10-13-06, 12:31 PM
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New chain time. That chain is probably stretched beyond belief. Keep it tight, but not too tight. You shouldn't be able to derail the chain from the freewheel or chainring by hand. If you can, its too loose.
10-13-06, 01:04 PM
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but did you respace and redish? if not, the chainline would be so far off that it will throw the chain easy
I had my Nishiki Mariner set up as a SS w the original freewheel. The only way it worked was if the chain was absolutely straight. Otherwise, it just kept shifting to a straight chain line.
I had my Nishiki Mariner set up as a SS w the original freewheel. The only way it worked was if the chain was absolutely straight. Otherwise, it just kept shifting to a straight chain line.
10-13-06, 01:09 PM
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It might be the chain stretch I measued it and it is between the 1/8 th mark and the 1/4 mark. I didn't use the original freewheel can you even re-use a freewheel? any way I got a new bmx free wheel from ACS I had a problem with the chain alignment then I dropped the second chain wheel and put the big one on which cleared up some problems sorry for the punctuation I am in a rush
10-13-06, 01:44 PM
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Don't forget about a bent chainring.
10-13-06, 04:26 PM
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Every so often, I get a crusier that throws a chain that is tight. Since these are beach crusiers, the chainline is not an issue, unless the whole frame is bent. These crusiers get shoved into bike racks, dropped, knocked over, and abused, and a bent chainring can happen. The whole ring is bent, not just a tooth or two. Sometimes you can bend it stright, but sometimes you just have to replace it. If the spider is bent, then you definatly should replace the crankset.
10-13-06, 04:33 PM
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Would I notice a bent chainwheel via visual inspecton
10-13-06, 05:52 PM
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Okay I will look at that and see if I have a problem I haven't noticed anything so far
10-13-06, 07:48 PM
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I looked at the chainwheel again still don't see anything visually wrong with it mounted to the bike going to go for a new chain will this singlespeed chain work if I want to go fixed some time in the future?
10-13-06, 09:14 PM
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I doubt that a single speed chain will solve the problem. My single speeds have derailer chains. You've got to get the chainline and chain tension right, especially on a fixed gear.
10-14-06, 07:12 AM
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I think it is because it is stretched out and that chainline looks extremly straight the chain is stretch past 1/8. I checked over the chainwheel no obvious bens checked over the sprocket no bends check over chainline straight as possible
10-14-06, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sheldonbrown
Respacing the rear axle.
Respacing the rear wheel requires taking off the cone lock nuts and moving spacers from the right side to the left side until you get the sprocket in direct fore/aft alignment with the chainring.
Like most 10-speeds, our project bike's rear wheel did not need a lot of rim movement. It only needed to be moved about 5 mm to the right.
* You can determine your chainline numbers by measuring the distance between the dropouts.
* With the wheel in the dropous, measure the distance from the inside of the dropout to the center of the sprocket. (The sprocket should be fully spun onto the freewheel threads.)
* Take half of the dropout measurement and subtract the dropout-to-sprocket number and you have the centerline-to-sprocket measurement.
* Up front, it's the centerline of the bike to chainring measurement. Usually, the center of the bottom bracket will be fairly easy to gauge.
* With a small ruler, measure from the center of the bottom bracket tube to the center of the chainring.
* The two numbers will have to be within 1 mm for a good chainline.
* Use chainring bolt spacers to position the chainring in or out on the crank arm spider.
* You will also need some rear axle spacers to get the sprocket where you want it.
* Many old rear hubs have one large right side spacer. You'll need to replace this with a number of smaller ones. The spacers go between the hub's cone nut and the inside lock nut.
* Most any bike shop will have spacers.
Respacing the rear wheel requires taking off the cone lock nuts and moving spacers from the right side to the left side until you get the sprocket in direct fore/aft alignment with the chainring.
Like most 10-speeds, our project bike's rear wheel did not need a lot of rim movement. It only needed to be moved about 5 mm to the right.
* You can determine your chainline numbers by measuring the distance between the dropouts.
* With the wheel in the dropous, measure the distance from the inside of the dropout to the center of the sprocket. (The sprocket should be fully spun onto the freewheel threads.)
* Take half of the dropout measurement and subtract the dropout-to-sprocket number and you have the centerline-to-sprocket measurement.
* Up front, it's the centerline of the bike to chainring measurement. Usually, the center of the bottom bracket will be fairly easy to gauge.
* With a small ruler, measure from the center of the bottom bracket tube to the center of the chainring.
* The two numbers will have to be within 1 mm for a good chainline.
* Use chainring bolt spacers to position the chainring in or out on the crank arm spider.
* You will also need some rear axle spacers to get the sprocket where you want it.
* Many old rear hubs have one large right side spacer. You'll need to replace this with a number of smaller ones. The spacers go between the hub's cone nut and the inside lock nut.
* Most any bike shop will have spacers.
10-15-06, 09:59 AM
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Bent chainring, loose chain, chainline, and is the 18T in the rear a single speed freewheel or shifting casette cog?
I used to build my single speeds with casette cogs ment for shifting. They'd always ramp up or down when I torqued hard with a loose chain.
In that case.. a nice shimano BMX cog ($5) would suffice. no angled teeth for shifting
I used to build my single speeds with casette cogs ment for shifting. They'd always ramp up or down when I torqued hard with a loose chain.
In that case.. a nice shimano BMX cog ($5) would suffice. no angled teeth for shifting
10-16-06, 06:53 AM
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This was all the LBS had and I needed to get to work so I said I woud take it
It is a ACS Freewheel
It is a ACS Freewheel
10-16-06, 05:54 PM
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Hey Ryan, one thing I gotta ask: was the chain thrown off the chainring or the cog?
* If it was thrown off the cog, then check the chainline and alignment of the rear wheel.
* If it was thrown off the chainring, then check that the chainring is perfectly flat.
* In either case, check that the chain is sufficiently tensioned (it shouldn't have more than, say, 1/4" of vertical slack in it.
* If the tension seems to VARY as you spin the pedals, then your chainring is probably off-center! In that case, "center" the chainring with Sheldon Brown's procedure, which involves nudging the chainring side to side until it's perfectly concentric with the BB.
As others have pointed out, your chain is severely worn (past 1/8" is usually unrecoverably bad
). That may not be causing the problem, but it certainly can't have helped, because a worn chain has more slop in the rollers. If you replace the chain, it may skip on the cogs. Try a new chain and if it works, you're lucky!
* If it was thrown off the cog, then check the chainline and alignment of the rear wheel.
* If it was thrown off the chainring, then check that the chainring is perfectly flat.
* In either case, check that the chain is sufficiently tensioned (it shouldn't have more than, say, 1/4" of vertical slack in it.
* If the tension seems to VARY as you spin the pedals, then your chainring is probably off-center! In that case, "center" the chainring with Sheldon Brown's procedure, which involves nudging the chainring side to side until it's perfectly concentric with the BB.
As others have pointed out, your chain is severely worn (past 1/8" is usually unrecoverably bad
). That may not be causing the problem, but it certainly can't have helped, because a worn chain has more slop in the rollers. If you replace the chain, it may skip on the cogs. Try a new chain and if it works, you're lucky!
10-16-06, 07:55 PM
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I have a couple of those ACS freewheels. They're made in India, a country that is not known for making fine, precision bicycle parts. I don't have any complaints, though. One of mine even has a 2mm spacer behind it to correct chainline. No problems so far.
It's a whole lot easier to build a single speed using a cassette hub because you adjust chainline with spacers. There's no respacing/redishing.
It's a whole lot easier to build a single speed using a cassette hub because you adjust chainline with spacers. There's no respacing/redishing.
Last edited by Grand Bois; 10-16-06 at 08:08 PM.
10-16-06, 09:00 PM
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It threw from the chain wheel I wil check sheldons site thanks for the help all
10-16-06, 09:23 PM
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I will check the chainwheel alignment looks kinda tricky not to sure if will get it right but I will try
10-17-06, 11:09 AM
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Yeah I still don't get the chain wheel alignment I am a visual learner. I measured out the chain line my sprocket could go to the left more can I take some of the spacers out of the rear wheel and add them to the other side or do I absolutley need to re-dish the wheel
