Painting Carbon Parts
I am not sure this thread belongs here but I sat staring at the forum list for 5 minutes and decided this one will have to do.
Anyway, I was curious if it's possible to paint carbon bike parts? I may want to paint this carbon fork I got from a friend red, to match the frame (so sue me). Is this possible or am I stuck with Al/Steel red forks for the rest of my life?
P.S. Sorry if it's the wrong forum
All you have to do is scuff the surface, use an etching primer and paint away.
[QUOTE=MSL77384]All you have to do is scuff the surface, use an etching primer and paint away.[/QU
Way cool, thanks! But I forgot to ask an obvious question...What sort of paint? The stuff do-it-yourselfers use on their frames? (rustoleum iirc)
You could possibly use very very very very very liquidy latex paint covered with xtra glossy clear coat.
The instructions that came with my Kestrel EMS Pro fork address painting it. They specifically warn against is using paint stripper, sanding excessively, bead blasting or baking the finish at over 150°F
They do recommend light hand sanding (grit not specified but probably 100 or finer will be ok) that doesn't get into the carbon under the clear coat but don't give any type of paint that is recommended or warned against. I take it from that that any type will do so a spray can lacquer or enamel should be safe.
100 is pretty course. I'd use more like 400.
For best results;
1st clean the parts (forks) with PPG's DX 330 Wax & Grease remover. Use some paper towels; one to apply and another one to wipe clean.
2nd, scuf with red (medium) or grey (fine) 3M scuf pads to break the gloss off the surface.
3rd Clean again with DX 330
4th, Primer with PPG DPLF primer in appropriate color
5th, spray color (any PPG, Sikkens or other auto motive base coat color)
Last, spray PPG 2042 clear. 2 coats, 3 max.
That's for a "pro" finish.
Otherwise substitute rattlecan primer (self etching is not really necessary). Use white primer if you are going to paint the forks red. Spray the red. Spray with 3-4 coats clear.
I don't recommend using laquer. But if you do, be sure the primer, color and clear are Laquer!
Enamel primer/color/clear is your best bet for DIY painting. Note; wait a week or two before assembling.
To determine if the paint is fully "cured", test an inconspicuous spot and see if your fingernail leaves an impression. If it does, wait another week. That's the only real drawback to rattle can painting, waiting for it to harden properly.
and don't forget to mask the fork crown race!
Good luck and you can PM me if you'd like more info.
Originally Posted by Old Hammer Boy
even 600 or 800 will do the same as the Scuf pads!
go to paintscratch.com and get some automotive grade touch-up paint in an aerosol can. way way better than rustoleum