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Old 10-26-06, 11:39 AM   #1
03FinestAL
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Triple to double- How many links to remove?

Hello all,

I just bought a '00 Specialized Allez recently that is currently set up as a triple (Shimano 105 9 spd). I'm converting it to double (have all parts except shy of a rear dr- working eBay now ) and was wondering how many links in a chain are generally the norm for a double set up. To be honest I have a new chain and would just like to count out the links, remove and install.

Any help would be appreciated (already did a search and didn't find anything).

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-06, 11:46 AM   #2
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It is easier to do the big ring, big cog plus 2 method.
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Old 10-26-06, 12:10 PM   #3
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You should fit the chain as per instructions. Look at the RD-5500 Service Instructions. With the chain on the big chainring and smallest cog, set the length so that the rear derailleur arm is perpendicular to the ground. barba's method would make the chain *way* too long.

The last double to triple conversion I did, the chain length did not change at all.
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Old 10-26-06, 12:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF
You should fit the chain as per instructions. Look at the RD-5500 Service Instructions. With the chain on the big chainring and smallest cog, set the length so that the rear derailleur arm is perpendicular to the ground. barba's method would make the chain *way* too long.

The last double to triple conversion I did, the chain length did not change at all.
Another method is to have, what, one link of overlap when the chain is around the big chainring and the largest cog (no derailers). That would also give no change when switching from triple to double (if the large chainring remains the same).
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Old 10-26-06, 12:52 PM   #5
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Here are excellent instructions on the Park Tool site. You can use either the largest cog/largest chainring method or the "equation" method, using the simple equation listed-

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26
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Old 10-26-06, 01:01 PM   #6
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Lots of great ideas. I appreciate the links to the Shimano and the Park Tool instructions.

Hopefully within the week I will my project completed.

Thanks!
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Old 10-26-06, 01:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMF
barba's method would make the chain *way* too long.
The method barba is talking about is the largest chainring/largest cog method, probably the most common chain sizing method there is. Put the rear derailleur over the smallest cog (to get it out of the way), and the front derailleur over the largest chainring. Put the chain through the front derailleur and over the largest chainring, and also over the largest cog in the rear. Pull the chain tight, look at where the nearest point the chain could join is, add a couple of rivets (an inch), and there's your chain length. If you're going to use a connector link (SRAM Powerlink, etc.), don't forget to account for it-

Last edited by well biked; 10-26-06 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 10-26-06, 01:26 PM   #8
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Why will the length of chain you need change if you switch from triple to double?
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Old 10-26-06, 01:34 PM   #9
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Why will the length of chain you need change if you switch from triple to double?
I guess ultimately it shouldn't really matter, but I figured it didn't hurt to ask.
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Old 10-26-06, 01:38 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Phantoj
Why will the length of chain you need change if you switch from triple to double?
as long as the size of the big chainring didnt change, and your not changing the rear derailuer (double has a shorter leg than a triple... double wont work with triple, triple will work with double) then your chain length should be fine, if your going to change it anyway then just match the new to the old length...
ehh

i would think if your going 52t to 53t on the big ring... you would probably just want to add one or two links... but as far as that goes, im not sure... i always set my chains the hard way... and i dont recomend it... but it works for me and im dumb
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Old 10-26-06, 03:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by T.C.Rival
and your not changing the rear derailuer -pete
It doesn't matter about the derailleur cage length, the chain length is determined the same way regardless. The purpose of the cage is to control the chain as it moves through the cogs (shifts) and to maintain uniform tension on the chain (it's a shifter and a chain tensioner). If you look at the way a rear derailleur works, the cage is extended vertically when it's taking up the most chain slack, so it can maintain tension on the chain when there would otherwise be a lot of slack. If you're in the big ring/big cog combo, the derailleur cage is almost horizontal to the ground, taking up very little slack at all (and that's the position that will be using very close to the full length of the chain to get around the big ring/big cog). How far apart the guide and tension pulleys are from each other make no difference in this position (when the cage is at or near horizontal) relative to chain length. That's why, when using the largest chainring/largest cog method of chain sizing, you bypass the rear derailleur altogether and just run the chain around the chainring and cog (and add an inch).
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Old 10-26-06, 04:02 PM   #12
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ZERO.

Check barba's reply. Since most triples have a 52 big ring and most doubles have a 53 big ring, there won't be enough difference to mess with.
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Old 10-26-06, 10:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by well biked
The method barba is talking about is the largest chainring/largest cog method, probably the most common chain sizing method there is. Put the rear derailleur over the smallest cog (to get it out of the way), and the front derailleur over the largest chainring. Put the chain through the front derailleur and over the largest chainring, and also over the largest cog in the rear. Pull the chain tight, look at where the nearest point the chain could join is, add a couple of rivets (an inch), and there's your chain length. If you're going to use a connector link (SRAM Powerlink, etc.), don't forget to account for it-
You mean big-to-big without threading it through the rear derailleur? That might work, but it seems to me that Shimano's method is a lot easier, especially with one of those little spring-loaded chain grabber tools. Set the grabber, install the quicklink, and you're done. No re-threading.
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Last edited by DMF; 10-26-06 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 10-26-06, 10:14 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by DMF
You mean big-to-big without threading it through the rear derailleur? That might work,
It might work? Uh, yeah.....Use the Shimano method if you like, but believe me the other method works, and it's very quick and easy, too-
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Old 10-27-06, 05:12 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by well biked
It might work? Uh, yeah.....Use the Shimano method if you like, but believe me the other method works, and it's very quick and easy, too-
Yes, it certainly does work and works very well. BTW, be sure to cut the chain so the right "sex" is left at each end. If you are using a pin to join the chain you need an inner/outer pair. If you are using a master link you need to leave two inner links at the ends.
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Old 10-27-06, 07:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Yes, it certainly does work and works very well. BTW, be sure to cut the chain so the right "sex" is left at each end. If you are using a pin to join the chain you need an inner/outer pair. If you are using a master link you need to leave two inner links at the ends.
Since I have powerlink or connex connectors on my chains what I do when I set them up is put the quick-link on the chain, that way I don't have to remember to account for it when picking where to break the chain. Also makes sure that I've got the correct 'genders' for my links when I'm done. I do the same thing that spring thingie does, except mine is made of carefully hand-crafted coathanger wire.

Steve W
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Old 10-27-06, 07:54 AM   #17
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Old shcool before they had this all down.

Set the chain on the 2 largest sprockets. The derailleur needs to point at a 45 degree towards the ground.
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Old 10-27-06, 09:18 AM   #18
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That'll leave the chain too long imho. But it's a religious issue anyway.
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