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Old 10-26-06, 08:17 PM   #1
DrPete 
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FSA Compact cranks, Ultegra 10 brifter--OK to use Campy Chorus FD?

So I'm buying a new frame with eventual plans to equip it with '07 Chorus. In the mean time it's getting the Ultegra 10 group from my other bike.

I'm buying parts, and the question is this--Is it OK to use the '07 Chorus FD with FSA Gossamer compact cranks and Ultegra brifters? It would just save me the trouble of buying a new FD with the chorus group... Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-26-06, 09:44 PM   #2
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I don't see how that combo --in front-- would make any difference (and I know you're already tackling the rear) Green light from me (take that for what it's worth )
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Old 10-27-06, 05:34 AM   #3
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It might work but I wouldn't bet on it. Shimano front shifters actually index and the geometry of the Campy fd and Shimano shifters may not work together.

The opposite way, a Shimano fd and Campy shifters works because Campy front shifters are basically "ratchets" rather than indexed so you can pretty much put the fd where you need to.
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Old 10-27-06, 06:40 AM   #4
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The Tricks of the trade??? Most derailleurs never work perfect right out of the box!!!

*If this is a Double set the outside cage of the derailleur even with the largest sprocket.
*On a Triple point the outside cage a bit along the chain line in the highest gear.

* about the height of a flat blade screw driver head. Set the derailleur above the largest sprocket to this guage.

* RULE!!! don't tighten cable yet!!!! Set the inside limit screw and crank the chain around. Adjust the screw so the inside plate almost touches. A good ear works best here and listen for rubbing. If the shifter is INDEXed. Run the burrel all the way down {clockwise** and then back it off 3 full turns. {this will help if you make the cable to tight**

*attach cable and only make it taunt. {twang it like a guitar string, should have some play. Just as you move your shifter so should the derailleur. If you made it tight? Here is where you back the burrel down so you won't need to reclamp the cable.**

* On some shifters there will be what is called Trim. {an extra click** this allows the chain not to eat away on your derailleur cage. {Most are set for the larger sprocket** So you may need to click again...

* you will find the derailleur might struggle a bit??? It is OK to BEND & YES I DID Say BEND. The inside cage a wee bit. What you are going to do I use a cresent wrench is bend the tip in the inside cage into a small J to help the chain catch faster. {Keep this in mind this will now reduce the clearance the chain has in betweeen the cage. DON'T GO WILD ON THIS...

* Last is setting the highest or outside limit screw.

Problem: Now my chain won't come off the largest sprocket?
A: same cresent wrench. Bend the bottom length of the outside plate of the derailler a wee towards the frame.

AS this is never mentioned in any instructions. It is based on flight hours with a bike in the stand!!! Trust me All mechanics do know this. But won't tell you unless you ask them

Last edited by thePest; 10-27-06 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 10-27-06, 07:41 AM   #5
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Good info all around. Thanks!

I was reading on another site (I think it was Excel Sports) that the new QS derailleur geometry is such that with a non-QS Campy brifter the QS derailleur will work, but you need to give it an extra push to get it up. So apparently the new QS brifters pull more cable or something.

I'm starting to think it's more trouble than it's worth--I think I'll just spend the 50 bucks on an FSA compact FD and switch to the QS when I buy the rest of the Chorus group...
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Old 10-27-06, 08:10 AM   #6
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The crank is no problem - will work fine with 9- or 10-speed Shimano or Campy drivetrains.

The Campy FD matched with Shimano shifters is possibly an issue, but since you're using a double crank you should be fine, STI indexed front shifting is much more finnicky with a triple than with a double.

That said, DrPete, you could pick up a Shimano road-double front derailler on eBay for $20 or less, very little hassle. I'd recommend that route. You don't need a compact-specific FD for a compact crank. It just looks cleaner b/c the FD curve matches the curve of the chainring a little more accurately, but that's only a visual bonus, and a very, very slight visual bonus unless you're Grant Peterson.

thePest - nice rundown
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Old 10-27-06, 08:43 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider
It might work but I wouldn't bet on it. Shimano front shifters actually index and the geometry of the Campy fd and Shimano shifters may not work together.

The opposite way, a Shimano fd and Campy shifters works because Campy front shifters are basically "ratchets" rather than indexed so you can pretty much put the fd where you need to.
This is a major concern for triple setups, because the middle gear position is regulated by the index detent in the shifter.

However, it's not generally a problem with double chainring setups, because the "indexing" is handled by the derailer's limit stop screws. Doubles are MUCH less fussy than triples.

The only issue with the combination invisioned is that the front derailer is optimized for a 52-53 big ring, while most "compact" doubles have a 50. That's not usually enough of a discrepancy to cause a serious problem, for a rider who knows to avoid the criss-cross gear combinations.

Sheldon "Not To Worry" Brown
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Old 10-28-06, 07:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
This is a major concern for triple setups, because the middle gear position is regulated by the index detent in the shifter.

However, it's not generally a problem with double chainring setups, because the "indexing" is handled by the derailer's limit stop screws. Doubles are MUCH less fussy than triples.

Sheldon "Not To Worry" Brown
Yeah, I suppose I'm more likely to worry about the "mis-matches" because everything I set up has a triple crank. Doubles are much more tolerant.
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