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  1. #1
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    Problem with CWP-6 crank puller and Octalink

    Hello,

    I have an Ultegra splined Octalink crank that I’m trying to remove. I have the Park CWP-6 crank puller, but cannot seem to get it fitted after reading the instructions both on the Park tool website and which came with the tool.

    I’ve screwed in the larger rotating head onto the end of the CWP-6, however when I try to screw this assembly into the crank arm (after removing the cap and bolt on the crank), it will not go in – simply because the tool seems to be too long, it doesn’t reach the threads. When I look at a picture of the other crank puller (CCP-4), the end which has the rotating head, seems to be shorter, thus allowing it to be screwed into the crank and pull/push the crank out from the inside. When I remove the larger rotating head (and replace it with the small one or nothing) it does screw into the crank arm, but of course there is nothing exerting any force against the BB to push out the crank. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong.

    Any help is appreciated.
    Last edited by guruguhan; 11-04-06 at 09:02 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    Pittsburgh, PA
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    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
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    As an expedient, you can stick a nickel into the crank arm to cover the spindle hole and give the crank puller screw press something to push against.

    Also, Ultegra Octalink cranks have auto-extracters built in so you don't need a separate puller. The threaded ring with the two pin spanner holes acts as a shoulder for the crank retaining bolt to push against and pulls the crank off of the spindle. So, replace the crank bolt loosly, thread in the ring and then back off the crank bolt against the ring (it will take some force) until the crank arm pops off.

  3. #3
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    Thanks hillrider - I'm still missing something. Using the nickel, it still prevents me from inserting the crank puller because the puller seems too long. Do you know what I mean? Comparing Park's two crank pullers (there is a picture on the page of the two below), one seems to be shorter than the other (from tip to thread).

    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=120

    In the meantime, I'll try what you said, I'll loosely replace the bolt and thread in the ring. I then just unscrew the crank bolt against the ring?

  4. #4
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    Hillrider, you rock. That worked like a charm. Thanks a lot!

  5. #5
    Sometimes knows stuff. rmfnla's Avatar
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    I think Hillrider rocks, too.
    Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    Glad to help.

  7. #7
    blacksheep the blemish
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    I think what you are doing wrong is that you aren't backing off the inner part of the crank puller. Back that out all the way (hell just take the extractor apart), and then thread in the outer part into the crank and then thread in the inner part (more like the pusher).

    You shouldn't have the inner part extending past the outer part when threading in the outer part.

  8. #8
    Junior Member
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    yeah, what endform said. and i'm pretty sure i'd rather rely on a crank puller when working on my bike, rather than self-extracting bolts (unless it's on the side of the road, or i'm in a hurry for whatever reason).

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