Gear help
11-04-06, 07:18 PM
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Gear help
I dunno if this has already been covered but I'm new to gears and I was just wondering if it's possible to have 2 speed front gearings with a fixed rear?
11-04-06, 07:40 PM
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Go to www.rivbike.com
The Quickbeam uses two chain rings. I used a 12 speed bike with a missing rear derailleur cable for several months. Using only two gears was surprisingly adequate.
The Quickbeam uses two chain rings. I used a 12 speed bike with a missing rear derailleur cable for several months. Using only two gears was surprisingly adequate.
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11-04-06, 09:30 PM
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Thanks for the reply, and yeah I find 2 speed to be enough aswell thats why I'm looking into this. Do you know if I could run a 32/22 up the front but with a fixed 13 in the rear? I think this would be best if it works beacause these are basically the only gears I've needed and I wanna lose weight and the hastle of my rears gears.
11-04-06, 10:16 PM
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Wow. I have seen some cool Rivendales before, but that is really neat.
Besides that bike, not that easy to go fixed w/ 2 in front. It will depend entirely on whether you have enough room in the dropouts to make up the 10t difference. w/ deep horizontal drops, maybe.
Besides that bike, not that easy to go fixed w/ 2 in front. It will depend entirely on whether you have enough room in the dropouts to make up the 10t difference. w/ deep horizontal drops, maybe.
11-05-06, 07:33 AM
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You will, of course, need a rear derailleur to allow the change in required chain length. Just lock it in position under the single cog using the limit screws.
11-05-06, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BROCK SAMPSON
Thanks for the reply, and yeah I find 2 speed to be enough aswell thats why I'm looking into this. Do you know if I could run a 32/22 up the front but with a fixed 13 in the rear? I think this would be best if it works beacause these are basically the only gears I've needed and I wanna lose weight and the hastle of my rears gears.
If you use a derailleur or a chain slack take up device, it will just pivot forward when you try to backpedal. If you had a bike with loooong horizontal drop out slots, it might work but It'd be a PITA to switch gears. For a 10 tooth difference I'm thinking they'll have to be specially designed dropouts, much longer than what you typically see.
If you were to use a flip-flop hub with a 19 cog on the other side, that would accomplish the same thing and might only take dropouts around a couple of inches long.
I used to have a Schwinn Twinn tandem that had an idler pulley to take up the slack in the timing chain. You might be able to weld a slotted piece of metal vertically onto the chainstay and raise or lower the idler pulley as needed to adjust the chainslack. I don't know however if it would be stable enough to handle the stress of backpedaling.
11-05-06, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
If you use a derailleur or a chain slack take up device, it will just pivot forward when you try to backpedal.
11-05-06, 11:40 AM
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Another alternative is to find an old Bendix coaster brake hub with the 'kick-back' 2-speed. Basicly what you do is slightly back pedal and it shifts into a second gear. A Shimano Nexus 3-speed would fit the bill as well.
https://cgi.ebay.com/BENDIX-YELLOW-BA...QQcmdZViewItem
https://cgi.ebay.com/BENDIX-YELLOW-BA...QQcmdZViewItem
11-05-06, 11:53 AM
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Just to be clear, when you say a fixed rear, do you mean just one cog, or do you mean an actual fixed gear cog with no freewheel?
If you're asking about running just a single cog in the rear with 2 speeds up front then, yes, you can do it. If you want to run a fixed gear, then no, you can't/
If you're asking about running just a single cog in the rear with 2 speeds up front then, yes, you can do it. If you want to run a fixed gear, then no, you can't/
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11-05-06, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by HillRider
You will, of course, need a rear derailleur to allow the change in required chain length. Just lock it in position under the single cog using the limit screws.
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11-05-06, 12:14 PM
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You'd need one hell of a long dropout to enable you to run chainrings 10 teeth apart with the same chain. It goes without saying that changing between them involves getting off the bike, removing the wheel, moving the chain manually and remounting the wheel.
11-05-06, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by LóFarkas
You'd need one hell of a long dropout to enable you to run chainrings 10 teeth apart with the same chain. It goes without saying that changing between them involves getting off the bike, removing the wheel, moving the chain manually and remounting the wheel.
That's a good point. I think the the biggest difference the track ends on my Fuji track bike will accomodate is about two teeth on the rear cog. Maybe three tops.
I guess the best answer is for the OP is that it's possible but not worth the trouble. Change the rear cog instead.
11-05-06, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by miamijim
Another alternative is to find an old Bendix coaster brake hub with the 'kick-back' 2-speed. Basicly what you do is slightly back pedal and it shifts into a second gear.
11-05-06, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave Moulton
Not a good idea, on the first downhill you come to, if you stop pedaling, the chain will go tight at the bottom, slack at the top.
11-05-06, 09:50 PM
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Sheldon has an article on how to convert a 3-speed Sturmey-Archer AW hub into a 2-speed fixed-gear, which is alot cheaper than buying a rare circa 1950 3-speed fixed-gear Sturmey-Archer ACS hub.
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11-05-06, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sivat
Just to be clear, when you say a fixed rear, do you mean just one cog, or do you mean an actual fixed gear cog with no freewheel?
If you're asking about running just a single cog in the rear with 2 speeds up front then, yes, you can do it. If you want to run a fixed gear, then no, you can't/
If you're asking about running just a single cog in the rear with 2 speeds up front then, yes, you can do it. If you want to run a fixed gear, then no, you can't/
