Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    as you wish, skeletor. ephemeralskin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Freiburg, Deutschland
    Posts
    753
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    changing from a double to a triple crank, etc

    hi. i want to modify my cross bike for touring. right now it only has two chainrings. im guessing i will have to replace both of them and also add another? what else has to go? the whole cassette? the whole drivetrain?
    i am hoping to find this stuff used online... any tips?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    895
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I recently upgraded from a Campy Chorus double to the Record triple. To do so I had to buy the new triple crankset and front derailleur. I all ready had a 'long-cage' rear derailleur, so didn't need to change it. That is one advantage of Campy. Even if I had a short-cage rear derailleur I would only have needed to change out the cage to the medium- or long-cage. If you are using Shimano you will need the crankset and front derailleur and most likely the rear derailleur, as I don't think you can change cages, even if you are running Dura Ace. But, that will also depend on the rear cassette you plan on running. But you will need to insure that all are the correct parts for a triple crankset as the distance the derailleurs must travel is different with the triple when compared to a double.

    With Campy, all else (chain, Ergo levers) was the same between the double and triple groups. I don't know about Shimano, but am sure someone who does will answer shortly.

  3. #3
    Licensed Bike Geek Davet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Spokane, Washington. Bicyclist's heaven!
    My Bikes
    Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
    Posts
    936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What kind of gear are you running on your bike? If it's Shimano 105 or Ultegra it will be relatively easy and not too expensive. Basically you will need a triple crankset with chainrings and a matching bottom bracket. You will of course have to adjust your front dérailleur and that's about it.

    Most likely you won't have to change the rear cogs or der, again if you have Shimano.

  4. #4
    A Heart Needs a Home Rich Clark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    1,387
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You should list what you have on the bike now, but if it's a Shimano STI road drivetrain, you'll need...

    Triple crankset
    Bottom Bracket
    (probably) Front Derailleur
    (maybe, probably) Rear Derailleur

    STI levers work with doubles or triples. If you have a short cage "double" road rear derailleur, it probably won't take up enough chain slack to work right with the smallest chainring of a triple. Even moreso if you plan to go to a wider-range cassette.

    RichC
    Training: 2002 Fuji Roubaix Pro (105 triple)
    Commuting/Daytripping: 2001 Airborne Carpe Diem (Ultegra/XTR, touring wheels)
    Commuting/Touring: 2000 Novara Randonee (Sora/Tiagra/LX, fenders, lights)

  5. #5
    Licensed Bike Geek Davet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Spokane, Washington. Bicyclist's heaven!
    My Bikes
    Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
    Posts
    936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Cross bikes typically come with medium or long cage rear ders. If the front der is Shimano, other than DuraAce, it will handle either double or triple chainrings.

    We still need to know the particulars of your drivetrain.

  6. #6
    A Heart Needs a Home Rich Clark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Posts
    1,387
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Originally posted by Davet
    Cross bikes typically come with medium or long cage rear ders. If the front der is Shimano, other than DuraAce, it will handle either double or triple chainrings.
    If by "handle" you mean "will work," you're right. But the derailleurs are different -- the "triple" FD's have deeper inside plates that help get the chain up from the inner to the middle chainring -- and using the shallower double FD can result in balky shifting. Does no harm, I suppose.

    RichC
    Training: 2002 Fuji Roubaix Pro (105 triple)
    Commuting/Daytripping: 2001 Airborne Carpe Diem (Ultegra/XTR, touring wheels)
    Commuting/Touring: 2000 Novara Randonee (Sora/Tiagra/LX, fenders, lights)

  7. #7
    feros ferio John E's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
    My Bikes
    1959 Capo; 1980 Peugeot PKN-10; 1981 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;
    Posts
    14,594
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    How much gear range do you really need for your touring application? If you can forego the extremes and promise to avoid cross-chaining, you can get a pretty respectable range of ratios with a triple chainring and a short rear derailleur. For example, I have geared the PKN-10 48-45-34 / 13-15-17-19-21-24, which works great with my short-cage SunTour Cyclone II rear and Shimano 600 front, while providing a range of 38-100 gear-inches. Any wider range would definitely require at least a medium-length cage.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
    Capo [dschaw'-poe]: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger, S/N 42624
    Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
    Bianchi: 1981 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
    Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069

  8. #8
    as you wish, skeletor. ephemeralskin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Freiburg, Deutschland
    Posts
    753
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    in the front i have: coda 48 and 39 chainrings. shimano 105 crank and der.

    in the rear: shimano 105 9 spd cassette 12-25 and a 105 der.

    and shim 105 sti shifters.

    so, i basically need to know three things:

    1) in chaging this to a touring-compatible drivetrain, what - if anything - can i keep. also, if the front der isnt going to give me optimum shifting i would rather change it out.

    2) after i know what i can keep, what exactly do i need to buy? also, in getting new parts, i would rather upgrade than downgrade.

    3) like everyone else, i want to pay as little as possible. any good internet places to check for what i need?

    thanks for the help!

  9. #9
    Licensed Bike Geek Davet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Spokane, Washington. Bicyclist's heaven!
    My Bikes
    Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
    Posts
    936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You will have to change the crankset (with chainrings) and bottom bracket. You may have to change your front dérailleur, depending on which one you have now. If you have a 5503 or 5505 front der you will not have to change it (those are triple dérailleurs). The number of the dérailleur is stamped on the outside of the inside der cage. You'll be able to see it when looking at the der from the left side of the bike. You will need a flashlight as the numbers are pretty small. The rear cassette and der won't have to be changed.

    Another alternative is to leave your double crankset in place and install a Shimano MTB rear dérailleur and cassette. You could use an LX or XT rear der and a 11-32 or 12-34 cassette. You would also need a longer chain.This would be less expensive than changing out your crank and BB. I have done this on several of my bikes.

    If you are looking for new Shimano parts, here is a comparison pricing site that should get you started: http://www.comparisonpricing.com/

  10. #10
    as you wish, skeletor. ephemeralskin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Freiburg, Deutschland
    Posts
    753
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks davet, that helped a lot. the second idea is interesting.

    how do you figure out which gives the greatest options? by that i mean, what is the math to determine if pedaling is easier on a 39 tooth chainring coupled with a 34 tooth cog versus a smaller chainring and a smaller cog.

    are there any drawbacks to using a mtb cassette? what is the stock gearing on a touring bike?

    thanks.

  11. #11
    Licensed Bike Geek Davet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Spokane, Washington. Bicyclist's heaven!
    My Bikes
    Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
    Posts
    936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Here is Sheldon Brown's website for calculating gear inches:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

    About the only drawback that I have found using an MTB cassette/der is that the shifting is not quite as crisp as with a road dérailleur. That's not to say the shifting is bad or poor, just not quite as precise.

    There's no such thing as "stock" gearing on a touring bike. Or do you mean "road" bike. Touring can mean different things to different people. For instance a person that literally tours on their bike taking everything they need with them, tent, camping gear, cooking equipment etc, has gearing needs far different than say someone who takes a day or two trip. Loaded touring bikes have MTB gearing, front and back, because they are carrying perhaps 50~60 extra pounds of gear. And of course the roads are not flat! The terrain you ride in also dictates what gearing you will have.

    Perhaps if you gave us some background on what you want to accomplish it would help in making recommendations to you. Let us know.

  12. #12
    as you wish, skeletor. ephemeralskin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Freiburg, Deutschland
    Posts
    753
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks for the link. whenever i go to that guys website i get lost in all the great info.

    what i meant by "stock" was the factory gearing on the "touring" models by trek, cannondale, etc. i was just curious what companies assume a "touring" bike needs.

    i actually just found a used ultegra triple crank/bb so i think i might just get that. as of today i have done only a couple overnight rides. i would like to outfit my bike for week long treks in the northwest, but its also my commuter bike for urban riding as well.
    Last edited by ephemeralskin; 04-14-03 at 07:29 PM.

  13. #13
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    IN
    My Bikes
    Bianchi 928, Bianchi Pista Concept 2004, Surly Steamroller, 1998 Schwinn Factory Team Homegrown, 1999 Schwinn Homegrown Factory, 2000 Schwinn Panther, Niner EMD9
    Posts
    1,801
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    You'll want to add a rear derailleur to what Dave said-you need the longer cage and larger pulley. As for STI levers, 105 and Ultegra swing both ways, but Dura Ace is double- or triple-specific.

  14. #14
    as you wish, skeletor. ephemeralskin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Freiburg, Deutschland
    Posts
    753
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    so to conclude the thread, i got a deore xt 34 tooth cassette and a xt derailleur. the der is an 8spd but seems to be working no problem with the pspd cassette. total cost was $55 and i kept the same chain but added some extra links.

    i really like the shifting possibilities i have now. keeps things simple with only two chainrings.

  15. #15
    Licensed Bike Geek Davet's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Spokane, Washington. Bicyclist's heaven!
    My Bikes
    Kirk Terraplane, Serotta Ottrott, Spectrum Super Custom, Hampsten Carbon Leger Tournesol
    Posts
    936
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Great! Now it sounds like you can grind up those really big hills.
    Have fun. Go places you have always wanted to, but never could.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •