Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Persistent bottom bracket creak

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Persistent bottom bracket creak

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-29-06, 09:30 AM
  #1  
Your mom
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Persistent bottom bracket creak

Ok, I know this pops up at least once a week, but I feel like I've exhausted the options. I ride a Cannondale R300.

Steps I've taken:

1. tightened seat rails, seatpost binder bolt, crankarms, stem, handlebar clamp.

2. lubed pedals

3. replaced old (crappy) BB with Shimano UN73 (a good one)

4. pulled the new BB 3x, repacking with grease, then teflon tape, then grease again (lots - basically filling the BB)

The only time that I've had any reduction in the amount / frequency of creaking was right after reinstalling with teflon tape. However, this wore off after a while and the creaking returned.

My questions:

1. How much teflon tape do I need to use? I did 3 -4 turns around the threads, thinking that was enough.

2. Has anyone had trouble with the plastic NDS cups on Shimano sealed cartridges? Should I buy another BB with an alloy NDS cup?

Help!
tellyho is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 09:38 AM
  #2  
Isaias
 
NoRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 5,182

Bikes: Ridley X-Fire (carbon, white)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Suggestions:

1 - Grease seat rail contact points on saddle.

2 - Grease seat rails, then tighten.

3 - Swap pedals for another pair to make sure that it's -really- not the source.
NoRacer is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 09:41 AM
  #3  
Elitist Troglodyte
 
DMF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 6,925

Bikes: 03 Raleigh Professional (steel)

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Could the hanger tube be out of round? Have you checked that the faces are parallel?

Also check carefully for cracks.

No need to grease the seat rails. Just see if it creaks while you're out of the saddle.
__________________
Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

- Will Rogers
DMF is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 10:48 AM
  #4  
Yup
 
pyze-guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: where the sunbeams end and the starlight begins
Posts: 3,083

Bikes: Kona Unit, planet X cx bike, khs fixed gear

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Or it could just be the bike. I have a cannondale badboy and it creaks, always at the same spot in crank rotation. Checked the bb, cranks, seat etc and finally took it in the the lbs to solve the problem.

It's a creaky bike. No cracks, just creaks. I was told some bike are like this.
__________________
When sadness fills my days
It's time to turn away
And then tomorrow's dreams
Become reality to me
pyze-guy is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 10:54 AM
  #5  
Somewhere in CA
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 816
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked 4 Times in 1 Post
face and chase the BB threads. use liberal teflon tape or the liquid teflon stuff. make sure its tightend to spec. then start looking elsewhere
Jim Bonnet is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 01:19 PM
  #6  
Your mom
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Thanks

I'll try the pedals, and I guess my last resort will be taking it to the LBS for a face and chase. I can't accept that it's creaky - I think I'd go insane. Thanks for all your help.
tellyho is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 01:42 PM
  #7  
-
 
seeker333's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,865

Bikes: yes!

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 282 Post(s)
Liked 38 Times in 36 Posts
could be the crank itself creaking
seeker333 is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 02:01 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
DannoXYZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Saratoga, CA
Posts: 11,736
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 9 Times in 6 Posts
Use a torque-wrench on teh crankarm bolt. I bet it's not tight enough. You really need a 12" automotive-style ratchet-wrench. Those puny 6" double-sided Park wrenches cannot let you get enough torque on those bolts. Search for "loose crankarm" and see how many cases of this pops up all the time.
DannoXYZ is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 10:00 PM
  #9  
'Cross and Road nut
 
arshak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: ABQ
Posts: 80

Bikes: '85 Atala, 87 De Rosa Track bike, TT Funny bike (24inch front wheel), Ritchey Cross bike, K2 Razorback, Bridgestone, Atherton, Cannondale, Tsunami, Custom Ti Bike,

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have seen this problem in older Cannondale bikes. One area that you might need to look at is the replaceable rear derailleur hanger that is attached to the chain/seatstays by two tiny allen screws. These occasionally work loose and cause the creaking noise. Feels as if it was coming from the BB. One way to fix this is to tap the threads for slightly bigger screws. Best of luck!
arshak is offline  
Old 11-29-06, 10:52 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 87

Bikes: SC superlight, CK hs/wheels, XT, Race Face, blah blah blah

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
after greasing everything, try pulling and greasing the chainring bolts- that has worked for me in the past.
gregseto is offline  
Old 11-30-06, 02:10 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Old_Fart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: In a cardboard box by Alki beach.
Posts: 343
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Because vibrations travel so well through a metal frame, the noise could be coming from many places.
The last time I had this problem it was the chainring bolts. Removed, cleaned, greased, re-assembled, creak gone. Another time the noise actually came from the stem.

Nobody has mentioned greasing the seat post yet. Grease the entire length that is inside the frame and wipe off the excess after inserting.
Check your stem. You don't want to grease here but you do want to make sure the bolts are all tight. I had a stem creak that was the result of an improperly machined stem. The clamp had a high spot so it was impossible to tighten properly. I replaced the stem with a decent four-bolt-clamp stem to fix.
Old_Fart is offline  
Old 11-30-06, 02:15 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
caloso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Sacramento, California, USA
Posts: 40,865

Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur

Mentioned: 68 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2952 Post(s)
Liked 3,106 Times in 1,417 Posts
Checked all the welds for cracks?
caloso is offline  
Old 11-30-06, 02:57 PM
  #13  
Sasquatch Crossing
 
mycoatl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Portlandia
Posts: 414
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Is your saddle a Brooks? The front tension nut on my B17 creaks when I'm peddling hard.
mycoatl is offline  
Old 11-30-06, 03:18 PM
  #14  
Your mom
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Creaks

I'm fairly convinced it's the BB because the creaking went away for a period after my second removal of the BB and reinstallation with teflon tape. But then it started again.

These are great suggestions - I'll check derailleur hanger, crankarm (although I really cranked those on there), seatpost (it's lubed, but I'll relube). I've tightened the chainring bolts, but I could pull them, clean, lube and reinstall. Not a bad idea. I'll keep folks posted. Thanks again.
tellyho is offline  
Old 12-01-06, 12:03 AM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
RockyMtnMerlin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Laramie Wyoming
Posts: 2,970

Bikes: Merlin Extralight Topolino Wheels Campy Record

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had this problem and it went away when I greased the area where the stem clamped onto the handlebars. Another time it was because I had not tightened the skewers enough on the rear wheel. The wierdst was when I was a wits end only to finally discover that it was the tab on the zipper of my jersey ticking against the zipper with every pedal stroke (and yes I am not the world's smoothest pedaler). Tracking down where a noise comes from on a bike can be totally frustrating. I wish you the best of luck.
RockyMtnMerlin is offline  
Old 12-01-06, 10:40 AM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times in 364 Posts
Originally Posted by DannoXYZ
Use a torque-wrench on teh crankarm bolt. I bet it's not tight enough. You really need a 12" automotive-style ratchet-wrench. Those puny 6" double-sided Park wrenches cannot let you get enough torque on those bolts. Search for "loose crankarm" and see how many cases of this pops up all the time.
Close, but my bet is you have inadequate bottom bracket torque. My reasoning is because teflon tapeing the bottom bracket was a temporary fix. Torque spec. for bottom brackets is 30 to 35 ft/lbs. That's a fairly significant amount. Think about a 30 pound weight hanging from the end of a foot long wrench. Crank arms and bottom brackets are two bicycle parts that I would personally undertorque if left entirely to my own judgement.

Incidentally, the crank arm thing is a biggie too. That's also a 30 to 35 ft/lb spec. With a 6" allen wrench you need to push down with 60 to 70 pounds of force (with one hand) on the very tip end of the wrench. Some allen wrenches aren't even 6" long so you'd have to push even harder. Not likely.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Old 12-05-06, 09:45 AM
  #17  
Your mom
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,544
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'm sure I've torqued the BB enough as I have a setup for my BB tool with a 1 1/2" socket and a 25" breaker bar. No shortage of leverage there.... It's sweet, BTW, and I'd highly recommend. I will tighten the crankarm bolts and see what happens. Thanks for the advice.
tellyho is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.