bkaapcke

O.K., I got a good deal on an inch/pound torque wrench. In my future wrenching adventures, what stuff do I ned to find the torque spec for. Cassettes and BB's I know, but what else? bk

well biked

I've got a mountain bike with a carbon fiber handlebar. When tightening the stem bolts to secure that bar, that's the thing that I've wished I had a torque wrench for-

OneTinSloth

cassettes and BBs you don't really need a torque wrench for. most cartridge BBs are labelled to be torqued to around 40Nm, which by most people's standards is just known as really F#%@ing tight. i use it for crank bolts on the newer shimano cranks with the pinch bolts, and the aluminum FSA cranks that have the 4mm allen bolt that holds the left crank arm onto the spindle, as well as the pinch bolts on those.

they're good to have around for any carbon fiber part, provided that the manufacturer of said part provides a torque spec for said part. *cough*FSA K-Wings*cough*

Sheldon Brown

This is a great example of how useless a torque wrench is in bicycle work.

The handlebar manufacturer knows nothing about your stem; not the thread pitch of the bolts, nor the materials, materials, nor the smoothness of the interior finish where it grips the bar, the length of engagement along the bar, nor even how many bolts there are!

If anybody tells you a torque "spec" for a handlebar, they're blowing smoke.

You should tighten your stem sufficiently that the handlebars don't move, and that's enough.

Torque wrenches are automotive tools, not bicycle tools.

Sheldon "Bicycle Mechanic" Brown

RockyMtnMerlin

Sheldon has been wrenching for a very long time and no doubt knows when things are just right through years of experience. If I had his experience I might not own a torque wrench. I resepctfully suggest, however, that for folks who are not as experienced, a torque wrench might come in handy especially on parts provided by one manufacturer. For example alloy chain ring bolts from FSA and used in their cranksets are pretty darn easy to damage. The Ritchey stem that I have has torque specs provided with it so that over eager mechs (like one who paid no attention to the specs and ruined my first one) don't strip the threads in the stem (holding the face plate) by over tightening the bolts. Obviously Ritchey supplies both the bolts and the stem. Likewise, CF top caps supplied with a CF fork (like the Look that I have) might be an area where a torque wrench comes in handy. Finally I bought a Bold Precision seat post and Albert Bold did give me torque specs; he manufactured the Ti seat post and provided the Ti bolts. There have been many discussions in this forum on the subject of torque wrenches. This is just my opinion but it seems to work for me.

well biked

I don't disagree with Sheldon, but my point was, in the case of the carbon fiber handlebar, that it's really the only thing I own that I feel a little uneasy about when I'm tightening the bolts down by "feel." The truth is, in tightening bolts against carbon fiber, I'd probably feel uneasy with a torque wrench, too, even if I had applicable torque specs.........I hadn't thought of the different variables regarding torque that Sheldon points out in the case of a stem/handlebar, they're very good points. FWIW, I don't even know if the Easton EC70 handlebar I was referring to came with recommended torque specs or not-

DMF 

That's what I did to discover how much it (CF bar) needs, and I use a torque wrench to be sure that I get it that tight (and no more) when reinstalling.

DMF 

I hope you didn't take advantage of the recent Nashbar "sale".

cascade168

This is so true. At the two extreme ends of the spectrum are CF bars (on the low end) and the big sweeping handlebars that you see on "cruiser" type bikes. With CF bars, tighten just enough so they don't slip. However, with those cruiser handlebars, it is really pretty hard to get the pinch bolt tight enough.
You've got to tighten the begeezus out of those bolts or the bar will easily rotate when you get out of the saddle and lean on the grips. BMX upright bars also need brutally tight stem bolts to keep the bar from rotating - and this is despite the fact that the stem front plates usually have four bolts.