Part Replacement Schedules
#1
META
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 945
Bikes: Gary Fisher Aquila (retired), Specialized Allez Sport (in parts), Cannondale R500, HP Velotechnic Street Machine, Dented Blue Fixed Gear (retired), Seven Tsunami SSFG, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Hardtail (alloy version)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
Part Replacement Schedules
So here's the issue that's been jogging around my mind for a bit:
WHEN should parts be replaced? I've heard of people replacing chains anywhere between 1000 and 2000 miles. Wheelsets and suchlike every 5000 miles. Brake pads when they get worn. Cables when they get stretched past the ability of a mechanic to tune them. So and and so forth..
what is YOUR preferred replacement schedule?
WHEN should parts be replaced? I've heard of people replacing chains anywhere between 1000 and 2000 miles. Wheelsets and suchlike every 5000 miles. Brake pads when they get worn. Cables when they get stretched past the ability of a mechanic to tune them. So and and so forth..
what is YOUR preferred replacement schedule?
#2
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 26 Times
in
19 Posts
I've heard of people replacing chains anywhere between 1000 and 2000 miles.
Anyone advocating replacing a chain at x miles needs to have the rest of their advice ignored.
Wheelsets and suchlike every 5000 miles.
brake pads when they get worn.
Cables when they get stretched past the ability of a mechanic to tune them.
Do periodic maintenance check on your components, if something needs to be replaced, replace it. You can't say after x miles component y automatically fails and must be replaced.
#3
cyclist/gearhead/cycli...
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: DC / Maryland suburbs
Posts: 4,166
Bikes: Homebuilt tourer/commuter, modified-beyond-recognition 1990 Trek 1100, reasonably stock 2002-ish Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by operator
Do periodic maintenance check on your components, if something needs to be replaced, replace it. You can't say after x miles component y automatically fails and must be replaced.
For example, my chain has about 3000 miles on it and is still at 12-1/32" (only 0.25% elongation), but I figure I might as well replace it since this chain probably wears out the cogs slightly faster than a brand new one, even if it isn't much. And plus I have about 5 Nashbar chains I've ordered to bump myself over the $75 mark or whatever, and haven't yet used
#4
Banned.
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home alone
Posts: 6,017
Bikes: Trek 4300 X 2. Trek 1000, Trek 6000
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Severian
So here's the issue that's been jogging around my mind for a bit:
WHEN should parts be replaced?
WHEN should parts be replaced?
Just assigning X number of miles is impossible.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Get your popcorn and cold drinks ready, this is going to be a looooong thread.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 3,268
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 118 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 50 Times
in
25 Posts
Often I replace parts when I want to upgrade them. Cassettes, chains, chainrings, derailleurs, tires etc. Yeah, they are usually not worn out, but who cares? bk
#7
Banned.
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Home alone
Posts: 6,017
Bikes: Trek 4300 X 2. Trek 1000, Trek 6000
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by HillRider
Get your popcorn and cold drinks ready, this is going to be a looooong thread.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: silicon valley
Posts: 1,774
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
Very true. I think that chains *might* be an exception, since they are cheap enough and affect enough other parts that it might be worth replacing them early just to be safe.
For example, my chain has about 3000 miles on it and is still at 12-1/32" (only 0.25% elongation), but I figure I might as well replace it since this chain probably wears out the cogs slightly faster than a brand new one, even if it isn't much. And plus I have about 5 Nashbar chains I've ordered to bump myself over the $75 mark or whatever, and haven't yet used
For example, my chain has about 3000 miles on it and is still at 12-1/32" (only 0.25% elongation), but I figure I might as well replace it since this chain probably wears out the cogs slightly faster than a brand new one, even if it isn't much. And plus I have about 5 Nashbar chains I've ordered to bump myself over the $75 mark or whatever, and haven't yet used
ed rader
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: silicon valley
Posts: 1,774
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by bkaapcke
Often I replace parts when I want to upgrade them. Cassettes, chains, chainrings, derailleurs, tires etc. Yeah, they are usually not worn out, but who cares? bk
ed rader
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: silicon valley
Posts: 1,774
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Portis
Nobody has mentioned chain lube yet...
ed rader
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,616
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Severian
So here's the issue that's been jogging around my mind for a bit:
WHEN should parts be replaced? I've heard of people replacing chains anywhere between 1000 and 2000 miles. Wheelsets and suchlike every 5000 miles. Brake pads when they get worn. Cables when they get stretched past the ability of a mechanic to tune them. So and and so forth..
what is YOUR preferred replacement schedule?
WHEN should parts be replaced? I've heard of people replacing chains anywhere between 1000 and 2000 miles. Wheelsets and suchlike every 5000 miles. Brake pads when they get worn. Cables when they get stretched past the ability of a mechanic to tune them. So and and so forth..
what is YOUR preferred replacement schedule?
Bob
#12
META
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 945
Bikes: Gary Fisher Aquila (retired), Specialized Allez Sport (in parts), Cannondale R500, HP Velotechnic Street Machine, Dented Blue Fixed Gear (retired), Seven Tsunami SSFG, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Hardtail (alloy version)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
How often do you empty your bowels?
Bob
Bob
Which dovetales nicely into an alteration of my post...
Using the example of a wheelset... under what conditions of wear would YOU replace a wheel? We've seen cracked rims, bent spokes, broken flanges, bent and gougued braking surfaces (on the rims)... what is the absolute minimum and maximum amounts of allowable wear on a wheel?
well?
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 415
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Let's not forget about stems, handlebars, forks, seatposts, frames, etc. Non-moving parts have finite fatigue lifes and will break if used for too long, especially very light weight aluminum, scandium, and magnesium parts. The stress acrued from crashes can shorten the normal fatigue life of these parts. I'd rather replace a handlebar at a scheduled interval rather than wait for it to break. For lightweight aluminum or magnesium parts that are part of the steering system I'll replace about every two years if they have high miles (2,000-4,000 a year primarily off road). Once a year if crashed. I don't ride on steering system parts if I see signs of damage.
I replace ball bearings around 3,000 miles even if there are no symptoms of wear or damage. I'd replace a wheel after the second or third JRA broken spoke.
Rims are now coming with wear indicators. Disc brake rotors are coming with minimum thickness specifications. I whole hartedly support these ideas.
My conclusion; Replace steering system parts every couple years if riding frequently or racing. Replace ball bearings in cup and cone systems every 3,000 miles or less . Replace other parts as symptoms dictate or when specified wear limit is reached.
I replace ball bearings around 3,000 miles even if there are no symptoms of wear or damage. I'd replace a wheel after the second or third JRA broken spoke.
Rims are now coming with wear indicators. Disc brake rotors are coming with minimum thickness specifications. I whole hartedly support these ideas.
My conclusion; Replace steering system parts every couple years if riding frequently or racing. Replace ball bearings in cup and cone systems every 3,000 miles or less . Replace other parts as symptoms dictate or when specified wear limit is reached.
Last edited by Pete Hamer; 12-19-06 at 08:56 PM.
#14
Bike Junkie
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South of Raleigh, North of New Hill, East of Harris Lake, NC
Posts: 9,622
Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Specialized Roubaix, Giant OCR-C, Specialized Stumpjumper FSR, Stumpjumper Comp, 88 & 92Nishiki Ariel, 87 Centurion Ironman, 92 Paramount, 84 Nishiki Medalist
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 37 Times
in
27 Posts
Anyone changing their wheels at 4000-5000 miles should mail them to me for proper disposal.
__________________
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
Roccobike BF Official Thread Terminator
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
To quote our late, great Sydney Boudreaux .... "How long is a rope?"
I do have a great friend who changes his tubes on a set mileage basis. Hey Joe, sorry piasan, but you can always give them to me!!!!!
I do have a great friend who changes his tubes on a set mileage basis. Hey Joe, sorry piasan, but you can always give them to me!!!!!
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 415
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
There's your answer. Not according to a set "replacement schedule".
Bob
Bob
https://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-009/000.html
"Yet another fatigue failure in a bicycle crank spider arm. This was a high quality component that had very high load cycles but was in excellent apparent condition until the final fracture that unseated the rider in heavy city traffic. Fortunately no long term injury occurred."
#18
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 21,796
Bikes: 1959 Capo Modell Campagnolo; 1960 Capo Sieger (2); 1962 Carlton Franco Suisse; 1970 Peugeot UO-8; 1982 Bianchi Campione d'Italia; 1988 Schwinn Project KOM-10;
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1392 Post(s)
Liked 1,324 Times
in
836 Posts
Having snapped a Sugino crank at the pedal eye during an out-of-saddle climb, and having cracked a cottered steel crank at the cotter eye whilst accelerating across a busy intersection, I do believe in replacing safety-critical parts periodically. I have also snapped two rear axles, one hollow/QR, the other solid, and I have broken one (Nishiki Competition) frame at the BB shell and another (Peugeot UO-8) at the right chainstay between the clearance dimples, but none of these failures were dangerous.
For chains, I use Sheldon Brown's 1/2 percent elongation rule.
For chains, I use Sheldon Brown's 1/2 percent elongation rule.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#19
META
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 945
Bikes: Gary Fisher Aquila (retired), Specialized Allez Sport (in parts), Cannondale R500, HP Velotechnic Street Machine, Dented Blue Fixed Gear (retired), Seven Tsunami SSFG, Specialized Stumpjumper Comp Hardtail (alloy version)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
1 Post
well haven't I just cracked open a can of worms...
like the man said.. need might be on a commute (as it would be for me) in the middle of traffic at speed.
like the man said.. need might be on a commute (as it would be for me) in the middle of traffic at speed.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Quahog, RI
Posts: 1,509
Bikes: Giant TCR Comps, Cdale R5000, Klein Q-Pro, Litespeed Siena, Piasano 105, Redline Conquest Pro, Voodoo Bizango, Fuji Aloha
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You should replace all your parts every 6 months to ensure nothing ever breaks unexpectedly. Oh yeah, send the old stuff to me.....
Chains are about the only thing you can quantifiably measure for wear. Headsets you can tell by feel. Most everything else is too tough to determine until it actually goes teats up..
Chains are about the only thing you can quantifiably measure for wear. Headsets you can tell by feel. Most everything else is too tough to determine until it actually goes teats up..
#21
so much for physics
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: over there
Posts: 562
Bikes: Scott CR1 team, Fuji track pro, NYCbike, Cannondale, Free Spirit, GT Edge
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Severian
Good question... when I feel the need.
Which dovetales nicely into an alteration of my post...
Using the example of a wheelset... under what conditions of wear would YOU replace a wheel? We've seen cracked rims, bent spokes, broken flanges, bent and gougued braking surfaces (on the rims)... what is the absolute minimum and maximum amounts of allowable wear on a wheel?
well?
Which dovetales nicely into an alteration of my post...
Using the example of a wheelset... under what conditions of wear would YOU replace a wheel? We've seen cracked rims, bent spokes, broken flanges, bent and gougued braking surfaces (on the rims)... what is the absolute minimum and maximum amounts of allowable wear on a wheel?
well?
#22
Sir Fallalot
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 5,286
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
11 Posts
Originally Posted by moxfyre
Very true. I think that chains *might* be an exception, since they are cheap enough and affect enough other parts that it might be worth replacing them early just to be safe.
However, I am usually unable to determine whether my cassette needs to be replaced or not, unless it's really worn out bad.
Originally Posted by Bobby Lex
How often do you empty your bowels?
Bob
Bob