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Thread: Spoke problem.

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    Spoke problem.

    I am in the middle of re lacing my wheel. I'm running into a problem every time. What happens is i lace the wheel to 3x. Everything seems to be done correctly. If i have a spoke on the left flange of the hub it goes to the corresponding hole. But for some reason some nipples are flush with the wheel, and some just stick out. Why is this happening?
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    How far are you in lacing? (e.g. which step out of four?)


    Do you have another 3x wheel around you can use for reference? Set them against each other and look closely.

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    I already redid everything 3 times, still the same thing. I'm about to get my spare 3x wheel.
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    feros ferio John E's Avatar
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    Are your left-flange and right-flange lacing patterns synchronized? If all of the too-long and too-short spokes emerge from the same flange, this is your problem. You are underwinding half of the spokes on one flange and overwinding the other half.
    "Early to bed, early to rise. Work like hell, and advertise." -- George Stahlman
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    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Do you have a pattern of two tight spokes followed by two loose spokes? If that's the case, then your pattern is off by one hole relative to the two hub flanges.

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    If it helps im lacing a rear wheel. So what you guys said is what is exactly happening. Can you guys explain on how to lace it up correctly? the way i do it, i followed Sheldon Browns instructions by placing the valve stem hole at 12 o'clock and putting the key spokes in so that they there is a spoke on every other hole on the hub and a spoke every other 3 holes on the rim. This sound correct?
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    is it dished, or do you have a flip flop hub?

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by taken67
    is it dished, or do you have a flip flop hub?
    no i do not have a flip flop hub. I just went and measured the old spokes, and yep some are longer, and i only bought 302mm ones.
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russiankdi
    If it helps im lacing a rear wheel. So what you guys said is what is exactly happening. Can you guys explain on how to lace it up correctly? the way i do it, i followed Sheldon Browns instructions by placing the valve stem hole at 12 o'clock and putting the key spokes in so that they there is a spoke on every other hole on the hub and a spoke every other 3 holes on the rim. This sound correct?
    Nope, a spoke every 4 holes. (When you have laced the first of the four groups there will be 3 empty holes between each pair of spokes.)

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    Nope, a spoke every 4 holes. (When you have laced the first of the four groups there will be 3 empty holes between each pair of spokes.)

    Sheldon "http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuilding" Brown
    Yes thats what i meant that i have 3 holes between each spoke. But i just noticed that the old spokes are all different sizes, and i bought 302mm spokes to do 3x.
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    edit: I just went and gathered all the old spokes, and placed them all together and some are a bit shorter then others but some looked stretched because of over tightening.
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by russiankdi
    edit: I just went and gathered all the old spokes, and placed them all together and some are a bit shorter then others but some looked stretched because of over tightening.
    I doubt that's the case. It's common for the drive side spokes to be 1 or 2mm shorter than the spokes for the non-drive side. That's close enough, however, that you can usually make it work even if all of the spokes are the same length.

    Those are pretty long spokes. Is this for a 27" rim?

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    Senior Member russiankdi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    I doubt that's the case. It's common for the drive side spokes to be 1 or 2mm shorter than the spokes for the non-drive side. That's close enough, however, that you can usually make it work even if all of the spokes are the same length.

    Those are pretty long spokes. Is this for a 27" rim?
    Yes it is a 27" rim.
    Last edited by russiankdi; 12-23-06 at 08:40 PM.
    1978 Schwinn Varsity Single Speed

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    The new driveside spokes need to be as short as the shortest of the old spokes.

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    For any number of spokes cross there are 4 groups of spokes (e.g. 4groups of 9 for 36 spokes) 2 on each side. Sheldon advises this order: right trailing, left trailing, right crossing, left crossing. I find it easier to do a whole side at a time (right trailing, right crossing, left trailing, right crossing). It is easier to spot your mistakes.
    see:
    http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htm

  16. #16
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbgladstone
    For any number of spokes cross there are 4 groups of spokes (e.g. 4groups of 9 for 36 spokes) 2 on each side. Sheldon advises this order: right trailing, left trailing, right crossing, left crossing. I find it easier to do a whole side at a time (right trailing, right crossing, left trailing, right crossing). It is easier to spot your mistakes.
    see:
    http://www.bikewebsite.com/build.htm
    There are lots of ways to do it. The sequence I recommend minimizes spoke bending, since you put in all of the "heads out" spokes before there is any crossing to be dealt with.

    High-production wheelbuilders commongly insert all of the spokes into the hub before they even pick up the rim, but I've never done it that way.

    Sheldon "Whatever Works For You" Brown
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