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Old 12-31-06, 10:17 AM   #1
The_Mickstar
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Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant with PTFE as chain lube...?

I posted this in the Road Forum, but thought you guys may have experience as well...

In another post, a couple of forumites mentioned using Liquid Wrench Super Lubricant w/ PTFE as their preferred chain lube.

While I was checking it out at Home Depot, I discovered that Liquid Wrench also make a Dry Lubricant with PTFE that seems like it would be an even better option, since it evaporates to a dry lubricant film with no dust-collecting residues. It also says it's harmless to most paint and specifically lists chains as one of the uses. Here's the product info...

http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/L512.PDF

And, here's a link to all of the Liquid Wrench lubricants (the one I'm referring to in L512)...

http://www.gunk.com/menu_LP.asp

Has anyone tried this? Results? Any lubricant experts that can see anything "wrong" with using it?

The only hesitation I have is that it may not penetrate into the "innards" of the chain as well, but I have no experience to back this up.

Thanks.

Steve
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Old 12-31-06, 01:49 PM   #2
Steve Manthey
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I tried that lubricant...For me, I found it to be inadequate for road and MTB use. I have yet to find a really good "dry lubricant", some are ok but they all seem to be quite short lived. It seems if you want an actual lubricant that does something, it needs to be a wet type, but they are messy and attract dirt...ya just can't win!
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Old 12-31-06, 08:44 PM   #3
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Thanks. I guess I'll pass on it, then.

I'm considering trying "Bar & Chain Lube" for chainsaws. It's $2 for 32oz. It it doesn't work, BFD!

I'm currently using Tri-Flow. It's fine, but I could do without the black speckling it leaves.

I doubt the Bar & Chain Lube will fix this problem, but at least it's alot cheaper than Tri-Flow.

Steve
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Old 12-31-06, 09:29 PM   #4
Garfield Cat
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The dry lubricants need to be applied more often than the wet lubricants as long as the wet lubricant does not attract too much dirt. That's the problem with wet lubricants.

If you ride about 3,000 miles a year, then I would change the chain anyways. So for me dry is the reasonable thing to do. If the chain gets really gritty, I go for the chain cleaner mechanism and fill it with simple green followed by a few rinse cycles.

The dry lube I use is the Boeshield T-9, squirt bottle. That way no overspray and it goes directly onto each link. I think any dry lube will work, Triflow, Finish Line, or anything else. The Dupont PTFE (Teflon) is suppose to be a good non petroleum lube. Lately I question its usefulness when mixed with a petroleum based product, synthetic or not.

Several companies mix their petroleum based product with PTFE (Teflon). It is not disclosed how much Teflon is in each can or bottle. So I think its a hype.

I have an older Mercedes Benz that happens to have a telescopic antenna. This MBZ antenna is noted for sticking. I use the LPS PTFE with no petroleum on the antenna and it works well. It leaves a white film which means its got Teflon. The Teflon doesn't do well in the rain so I spray the PTFE as needed. So far the antenna has lasted over 3 years, a good thing in MBZ circles.
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Old 12-31-06, 11:38 PM   #5
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There are decent dry lubes on the market. One is TriFlow the original teflon bike chain lube; Finish Line Teflon Dry+; and another is called Speed Skate Lube-that's right, it's intended for inline speed skates and skate board wheel bearings, but works on chains real well. Any dry lube needs to dry for at least 12 hours before using in order for it work as advertized.

The Speed Skate Lube only comes in a spray that I know of, but I just spray the contents into a plastic drip bottle so I can control the lubes flow better.
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Old 12-31-06, 11:46 PM   #6
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The dry PTFE stuff all seems to be a lot like GT85, which I used for a few years when I lived in a drier area and really, really liked it. It was PTFE based as well.
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