Can the Dropout be Saved?
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Can a Bent Dropout be Saved?
There is a difference in gap spacing between the Right / Left Dropouts.
What do I do? Jury rig attaching a derailleur w/adapter claw?
Right / Left Dropouts /
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-4L9A.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-5L9A.JPG
The Suntour Cyclone Rear Derailleur (as it was setup):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-14LCA.JPG
The Suntour Cyclone Rear Derailleur showing bent alignment:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-10LCA.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-12LCA.JPG
My bike:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/UO8-1LC9.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/UO8-3LC9.JPG
https://www.bitrot.de/bbook_drive.html
It is absolutely critical to adjust the limit screws of rear derailleurs precisely. If the chain overshifts and falls off the smallest cog, it may block the wheel. If it overshifts at the other end, the derailleur might get caught in the spokes, which will probably crush or snap the derailleur in half and bend the dropout of the frame. A good mechanic may be able to bend the dropout back into shape (this requires special and very expensive frame alignment tools) but this is an excellent way of destroying frames.
What do I do? Jury rig attaching a derailleur w/adapter claw?
Right / Left Dropouts /
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-4L9A.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-5L9A.JPG
The Suntour Cyclone Rear Derailleur (as it was setup):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-14LCA.JPG
The Suntour Cyclone Rear Derailleur showing bent alignment:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-10LCA.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-12LCA.JPG
My bike:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/UO8-1LC9.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/UO8-3LC9.JPG
https://www.bitrot.de/bbook_drive.html
It is absolutely critical to adjust the limit screws of rear derailleurs precisely. If the chain overshifts and falls off the smallest cog, it may block the wheel. If it overshifts at the other end, the derailleur might get caught in the spokes, which will probably crush or snap the derailleur in half and bend the dropout of the frame. A good mechanic may be able to bend the dropout back into shape (this requires special and very expensive frame alignment tools) but this is an excellent way of destroying frames.
Last edited by Liquidfusion; 01-01-07 at 04:39 PM.
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It appears the dropout is bent and will need to be straightened, and that the adapter claw derailleur hanger is also bent, and will need to be replaced. A shop would probably align the dropout for you for a few bucks, or you might be able to do it yourself using a large adjustable wrench, although you will have to rely on "eyeballing it" in doing it that way. I think www.loosescrews.com carries replacement adapter claws that should work-
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Thought came to my mind --- if the derailleur / adapter claw were already on the bike, then the dropout was bent a long time ago!!! When you say "align the dropout," do you mean narrow the gap? If I get an adapter claw, then I can leave this dropout alone and not risk breaking the frame.
This experience reminds me of rebuilding a Triumph Spitfire way back when......
This experience reminds me of rebuilding a Triumph Spitfire way back when......
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Originally Posted by Liquidfusion
Thought came to my mind --- if the derailleur / adapter claw were already on the bike, then the dropout was bent a long time ago!!! When you say "align the dropout," do you mean narrow the gap? If I get an adapter claw, then I can leave this dropout alone and not risk breaking the frame.
This experience reminds me of rebuilding a Triumph Spitfire way back when......
This experience reminds me of rebuilding a Triumph Spitfire way back when......
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to align the face of the dropout
Ok I see the need for that.
to bend the dropout back so that the space where the axle goes is the correct dimension for the axle nut to be tightened down against it.
Frame is steel - magnets don't fall off. Do I need to bring this to a frame builder to bend in the dropout? Can it be jury rigged well enough with the adapter claw?
Possibly when I changed gears, the rear derailleur wasn't fastened securely and therefore the adapter claw on the bike was not clamped down right. Maybe that's why it all jammed even though I was going slow on a flat surface road. There's alot happening when you change gears!!!
Ok I see the need for that.
to bend the dropout back so that the space where the axle goes is the correct dimension for the axle nut to be tightened down against it.
Frame is steel - magnets don't fall off. Do I need to bring this to a frame builder to bend in the dropout? Can it be jury rigged well enough with the adapter claw?
Possibly when I changed gears, the rear derailleur wasn't fastened securely and therefore the adapter claw on the bike was not clamped down right. Maybe that's why it all jammed even though I was going slow on a flat surface road. There's alot happening when you change gears!!!
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Originally Posted by Liquidfusion
to align the face of the dropout
Ok I see the need for that.
to bend the dropout back so that the space where the axle goes is the correct dimension for the axle nut to be tightened down against it.
Frame is steel - magnets don't fall off. Do I need to bring this to a frame builder to bend in the dropout? Can it be jury rigged well enough with the adapter claw?
Possibly when I changed gears, the rear derailleur wasn't fastened securely and therefore the adapter claw on the bike was not clamped down right. Maybe that's why it all jammed even though I was going slow on a flat surface road. There's alot happening when you change gears!!!
Ok I see the need for that.
to bend the dropout back so that the space where the axle goes is the correct dimension for the axle nut to be tightened down against it.
Frame is steel - magnets don't fall off. Do I need to bring this to a frame builder to bend in the dropout? Can it be jury rigged well enough with the adapter claw?
Possibly when I changed gears, the rear derailleur wasn't fastened securely and therefore the adapter claw on the bike was not clamped down right. Maybe that's why it all jammed even though I was going slow on a flat surface road. There's alot happening when you change gears!!!
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Originally Posted by well biked
It appears from the photos the dropout is bent in two different ways, with the space where the axle slides in being spread apart more than it's supposed to be, and also the face of the dropout is bent inward. When I said "align the dropout" I was referring to the face of the dropout being aligned, I really didn't mention anything about the other issue, although I should have. I think to get smooth, reliable shifting, even with friction shifters, you'll need to align the face of the dropout, and of course you'll also have to bend the dropout back so that the space where the axle goes is the correct dimension for the axle nut to be tightened down against it. And then you'll still need a new adapter claw, unless you can bend that back, too-
You're going to need to close that gap where the drop out opens downward. How in the world did it get that way BTW? Not sure how to achieve that. If you were successful with the vice technique I might even go back to the vice and try to carefully close that gap. If not, you could always take a hammer and a big drift pin and whack on it until it submits. Those dropouts look stamped, not forged which to me means they are somewhat maleable.
Just had to ask, What's the deal with the funky handlebars?
Good luck.
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If you have average or better mechanical ability, you can do this. Just clamp a big crescent wrench onto the individual parts and bend them back straight. On a 5 or 6-speed bike with index shifting it doesn't have to be perfect.
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I'm not sure what method would be best for bending the dropout back up so that it's shaped properly to accept the axle, adapter claw, and nut.
Seems to me this is critical to get right before adding another rear derailleur back on.
If it were mine I'd probably take a hammer and a block of wood and see if I could bend it back into shape.
Where would you put the wood? How would you do this?
You're going to need to close that gap where the drop out opens downward. How in the world did it get that way BTW?
Don't know either. Bike is a recent gift from a friend who can't ride. Said he had a fall a few years ago. No vice grip here.
take a hammer and a big drift pin and whack on it until it submits.
Please describe more....... wack the metal dropout from the bottom to close the gap? What's a drift pin?
If you have average or better mechanical ability, you can do this.
removed the rear derailleur / opened it / removed the chain / reassembled it all back again - OK on this
Just clamp a big crescent wrench onto the individual parts and bend them back straight.
This takes care of sideways vertical alignment. What about closing the fork / dropout "gap?"
BTW a bike shop here that does repair said they can do this for ~ $8.00. I asked are they experienced? They said yes.
Right now getting all info before making a move.
Thanks / Brewer
PS
Just had to ask, What's the deal with the funky handlebars?
Italian "Bullhorns" !!!! They were put on high like this as the person who used to own the bike had back pblms.
Seems to me this is critical to get right before adding another rear derailleur back on.
If it were mine I'd probably take a hammer and a block of wood and see if I could bend it back into shape.
Where would you put the wood? How would you do this?
You're going to need to close that gap where the drop out opens downward. How in the world did it get that way BTW?
Don't know either. Bike is a recent gift from a friend who can't ride. Said he had a fall a few years ago. No vice grip here.
take a hammer and a big drift pin and whack on it until it submits.
Please describe more....... wack the metal dropout from the bottom to close the gap? What's a drift pin?
If you have average or better mechanical ability, you can do this.
removed the rear derailleur / opened it / removed the chain / reassembled it all back again - OK on this
Just clamp a big crescent wrench onto the individual parts and bend them back straight.
This takes care of sideways vertical alignment. What about closing the fork / dropout "gap?"
BTW a bike shop here that does repair said they can do this for ~ $8.00. I asked are they experienced? They said yes.
Right now getting all info before making a move.
Thanks / Brewer
PS
Just had to ask, What's the deal with the funky handlebars?
Italian "Bullhorns" !!!! They were put on high like this as the person who used to own the bike had back pblms.
Last edited by Liquidfusion; 01-02-07 at 12:10 PM.
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Originally Posted by Liquidfusion
I'm not sure what method would be best for bending the dropout back up so that it's shaped properly to accept the axle, adapter claw, and nut.
Seems to me this is critical to get right before adding another rear derailleur back on.
If it were mine I'd probably take a hammer and a block of wood and see if I could bend it back into shape.
Where would you put the wood? How would you do this?
You're going to need to close that gap where the drop out opens downward. How in the world did it get that way BTW?
Don't know either. Bike is a recent gift from a friend who can't ride. Said he had a fall a few years ago. No vice grip here.
take a hammer and a big drift pin and whack on it until it submits.
Please describe more....... wack the metal dropout from the bottom to close the gap? What's a drift pin?
If you have average or better mechanical ability, you can do this.
removed the rear derailleur / opened it / removed the chain / reassembled it all back again - OK on this
Just clamp a big crescent wrench onto the individual parts and bend them back straight.
This takes care of sideways vertical alignment. What about closing the fork / dropout "gap?"
BTW a bike shop here that does repair said they can do this for ~ $8.00. I asked are they experienced? They said yes.
Right now getting all info before making a move.
Thanks / Brewer
PS
Just had to ask, What's the deal with the funky handlebars?
Italian "Bullhorns" !!!! They were put on high like this as the person who used to own the bike had back pblms.
Seems to me this is critical to get right before adding another rear derailleur back on.
If it were mine I'd probably take a hammer and a block of wood and see if I could bend it back into shape.
Where would you put the wood? How would you do this?
You're going to need to close that gap where the drop out opens downward. How in the world did it get that way BTW?
Don't know either. Bike is a recent gift from a friend who can't ride. Said he had a fall a few years ago. No vice grip here.
take a hammer and a big drift pin and whack on it until it submits.
Please describe more....... wack the metal dropout from the bottom to close the gap? What's a drift pin?
If you have average or better mechanical ability, you can do this.
removed the rear derailleur / opened it / removed the chain / reassembled it all back again - OK on this
Just clamp a big crescent wrench onto the individual parts and bend them back straight.
This takes care of sideways vertical alignment. What about closing the fork / dropout "gap?"
BTW a bike shop here that does repair said they can do this for ~ $8.00. I asked are they experienced? They said yes.
Right now getting all info before making a move.
Thanks / Brewer
PS
Just had to ask, What's the deal with the funky handlebars?
Italian "Bullhorns" !!!! They were put on high like this as the person who used to own the bike had back pblms.
#12
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It's a UO-8, and the dropouts are malleable stamped steel. You can easily close the dropout gap with either a rubber mallet or a vise. Work carefully and watch what you are doing, and you are unlikely to damage anything. Been there ... done that.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
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Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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You can easily close the dropout gap with either a rubber mallet or a vise. Work carefully and watch what you are doing, and you are unlikely to damage anything. Been there ... done that.
Great Advise!!
OK Here is what I did / Thanks to all who helped!!!! Waiting for the rear derailleuir to arrive.
Full View both dropouts (from above):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD6L9.JPG
Are these ok?
Left side:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD4L9.JPG
Right Side (Flywheel/Derailleur side):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD3L9.JPG
Hammered Dropout (used crescent wrench / heavy rubber hammer):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD2L9.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD1L9.JPG
Great Advise!!
OK Here is what I did / Thanks to all who helped!!!! Waiting for the rear derailleuir to arrive.
Full View both dropouts (from above):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD6L9.JPG
Are these ok?
Left side:
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD4L9.JPG
Right Side (Flywheel/Derailleur side):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD3L9.JPG
Hammered Dropout (used crescent wrench / heavy rubber hammer):
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD2L9.JPG
https://www.liquidfusion.net/Peugeot/U08-RD1L9.JPG