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Old 01-02-07, 11:47 AM   #1
joe v
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Should this spot of rust stop me from buying this bike?

Looks like rust where the fork meets the headtube ... Should it worry me?
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Old 01-02-07, 12:51 PM   #2
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Can't see it very well, at all, in this picture. Look closer. If the rust appears to be surface rust (which is by far the most likely) then you're fine. You should worry more if the paint appears cracked from bending or impact, anything which might indicate that the head tube is separating from the fork blades. But a bit of rust around the joint, by itself, isn't an indicator of danger.
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Old 01-02-07, 01:59 PM   #3
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Looks like grease to me. Rust is usually a brownish orange.
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Old 01-02-07, 03:23 PM   #4
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If it's just under the headtube race, I agree with Stacey, it's oil from the grease that's seeped out and collected dust. I can't see any other signs of rust in the picture, but I always have trouble with trick questions.
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Old 01-03-07, 03:24 PM   #5
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On the other hand, those brakes would make me think twice...
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Old 01-03-07, 03:40 PM   #6
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Those are really good brakes because the cables are almost direct not angle pulled. Pauls is currently making basically a newer version of this brake. Some improvements but much more $$$$$. The brakes would be one reason I would consider that a good bike. Roger
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Old 01-03-07, 05:37 PM   #7
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Aren't those MAFAC cantilevers? They don't look like much, but I've always heard good things about them.

What kind of bike is that?
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Old 01-03-07, 05:43 PM   #8
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The 531 stickers on the fork speak to quality. I can't tell if that is even rust from picture, either. If you are really concerned drop the fork out and take a closer look.
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Old 01-03-07, 07:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhenning
Those are really good brakes because the cables are almost direct not angle pulled. Pauls is currently making basically a newer version of this brake. Some improvements but much more $$$$$. The brakes would be one reason I would consider that a good bike. Roger
Perpendicular cable pull does not make up for soft alloy, flimsy desgn and finicky pad adjustment.
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Old 01-03-07, 07:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
Aren't those MAFAC cantilevers? They don't look like much, but I've always heard good things about them.

What kind of bike is that?
Thay are MAFACs and IMHO the only thing worse are MAFAC road calipers.
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Old 01-03-07, 07:14 PM   #11
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I'm curious about what kind of bike that is. Cool looking fork, and you can see the Reynolds stickers on it as barba said. From what I can see of the bike, it looks interesting. No way to tell a thing about the rust, dirty grease, or whatever that is from that particular photo-
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Old 01-03-07, 07:18 PM   #12
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The bike is a Gazelle, but I am not sure which one.
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Old 01-03-07, 07:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barba
The bike is a Gazelle, but I am not sure which one.
Now that you mention it, I think that's the same color scheme as cuda2k's Gazelle.......definitely not the same model bike, though-
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Old 01-03-07, 07:35 PM   #14
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A Gazelle, I knew it!!

Paging Cuda2k....Cuda2k, there is a Gazelle spotted in the mechanics forum!!
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Old 01-03-07, 08:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmfnla
Thay are MAFACs and IMHO the only thing worse are MAFAC road calipers.
You must not have much experience with crappy brakes. You could do much worse than MAFACS.
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Old 01-04-07, 07:40 AM   #16
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The bike is indeed a Gazelle. This one being a Cyclocross version of the Champion Mondial, and a few years newer than mine as well. I believe the OP posted photos of this beauty in the Classic & Vintage a short while back. Great looking bike.

Back on topic, I agree that it appears to be grease, my Gazelle collects grease at that point as well, rather promptly too. Get some papertowel strips and get in there and wipe it down as best you can and see whats under the grease. If there's a little rust then it may be a good idea to pull the fork, and treat the rusted areas to prevent further oxidation.
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Old 01-04-07, 12:03 PM   #17
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Have owner probe with knife/screwdriver

If the owner doesn't want you to take it apart to get a better look,ask him to gently probe it with a knife of tiny screwdriver. If it is rust vs grease vs a little rust +lotta grease, it will be obvious.
If biggish ,deep rust scabs flake up/off them- JUST OFFER A LOT LESS!! It is still a decent enough frame otherwise-right?
Dirt drop is right. The absolute worst cantilever-v-brake or whatever brake from the last 15/20 years is much much better than the best 1970s state of the art Campagnolo R NR SR brake with stock pads-(the CampagnoloR NR SR brakes became almost not too bad with Scott Mathauser pads(expensive little suckers $10 in 1970's-like $35 now).All 1970's and earlier stock brakes were terrible by comparison to the cheapest dept store V-brakes. Rim surfaces have improved also, but I think it is mainly the actual brake designs, pad size, pad material that make the difference.The cables and casing probably stretch/compress less also.
Use the rust/grunge as a bargaining chip.
Luck
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Old 01-04-07, 02:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
You must not have much experience with crappy brakes. You could do much worse than MAFACS.
Trust me; I've have more than my share.

It might just be my personal prejudices; of course, seeing what bikes you list it might be yours.
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Old 01-04-07, 05:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmfnla
Trust me; I've have more than my share.

It might just be my personal prejudices; of course, seeing what bikes you list it might be yours.
Actually, the first thing I did to both the Gitane and the Peugeot was to get rid of the MAFACs. I didn't say that I like them, only that there's worse.

I've got MAFAC Competitions on the Raleigh, but only because it requires long-reach centerpulls and the MAFACS suck a little less than Weinmanns, IMHO.
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