Should this spot of rust stop me from buying this bike?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Belgium
Posts: 664
Bikes: ca.1975 Gitane Interclub - 90's Colnago Master Competition- ca.'84 Merckx Corsa - '77 Groene Leeuw - ca. '78 Guerciotti - ca.1984 L'Express - 1974 Gitane 'Super Olympic' - Peugeot 1981 PXN10 - 1975 Peugeot PR10 -1974 Norta -1974 Peugeot PX10 LE
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Should this spot of rust stop me from buying this bike?
Looks like rust where the fork meets the headtube ... Should it worry me?
Last edited by joe v; 01-02-07 at 11:57 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 4,454
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 128 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 12 Times
in
10 Posts
Can't see it very well, at all, in this picture. Look closer. If the rust appears to be surface rust (which is by far the most likely) then you're fine. You should worry more if the paint appears cracked from bending or impact, anything which might indicate that the head tube is separating from the fork blades. But a bit of rust around the joint, by itself, isn't an indicator of danger.
__________________
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
"c" is not a unit that measures tire width
#4
Senior Member
If it's just under the headtube race, I agree with Stacey, it's oil from the grease that's seeped out and collected dust. I can't see any other signs of rust in the picture, but I always have trouble with trick questions.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
9 Posts
On the other hand, those brakes would make me think twice...
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,653
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 380 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 106 Times
in
80 Posts
Those are really good brakes because the cables are almost direct not angle pulled. Pauls is currently making basically a newer version of this brake. Some improvements but much more $$$$$. The brakes would be one reason I would consider that a good bike. Roger
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Aren't those MAFAC cantilevers? They don't look like much, but I've always heard good things about them.
What kind of bike is that?
What kind of bike is that?
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,083
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The 531 stickers on the fork speak to quality. I can't tell if that is even rust from picture, either. If you are really concerned drop the fork out and take a closer look.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
9 Posts
Originally Posted by rhenning
Those are really good brakes because the cables are almost direct not angle pulled. Pauls is currently making basically a newer version of this brake. Some improvements but much more $$$$$. The brakes would be one reason I would consider that a good bike. Roger
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
9 Posts
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
Aren't those MAFAC cantilevers? They don't look like much, but I've always heard good things about them.
What kind of bike is that?
What kind of bike is that?
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
89 Posts
I'm curious about what kind of bike that is. Cool looking fork, and you can see the Reynolds stickers on it as barba said. From what I can see of the bike, it looks interesting. No way to tell a thing about the rust, dirty grease, or whatever that is from that particular photo-
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 7,487
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 140 Post(s)
Liked 162 Times
in
89 Posts
Originally Posted by barba
The bike is a Gazelle, but I am not sure which one.
#14
The Guadfather
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Fart Worth
Posts: 1,090
Bikes: Trek, Centurion, Kuwahara coming soon
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A Gazelle, I knew it!!
Paging Cuda2k....Cuda2k, there is a Gazelle spotted in the mechanics forum!!
Paging Cuda2k....Cuda2k, there is a Gazelle spotted in the mechanics forum!!
__________________
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
"Minor bun engine, made Benny Lava!!!"
Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. Its free, and only takes 27 seconds!
Help out the forums, abide by our community guidelines.
"Minor bun engine, made Benny Lava!!!"
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Originally Posted by rmfnla
Thay are MAFACs and IMHO the only thing worse are MAFAC road calipers.
#16
Unique Vintage Steel
The bike is indeed a Gazelle. This one being a Cyclocross version of the Champion Mondial, and a few years newer than mine as well. I believe the OP posted photos of this beauty in the Classic & Vintage a short while back. Great looking bike.
Back on topic, I agree that it appears to be grease, my Gazelle collects grease at that point as well, rather promptly too. Get some papertowel strips and get in there and wipe it down as best you can and see whats under the grease. If there's a little rust then it may be a good idea to pull the fork, and treat the rusted areas to prevent further oxidation.
Back on topic, I agree that it appears to be grease, my Gazelle collects grease at that point as well, rather promptly too. Get some papertowel strips and get in there and wipe it down as best you can and see whats under the grease. If there's a little rust then it may be a good idea to pull the fork, and treat the rusted areas to prevent further oxidation.
#17
New Orleans
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,794
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 157 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Have owner probe with knife/screwdriver
If the owner doesn't want you to take it apart to get a better look,ask him to gently probe it with a knife of tiny screwdriver. If it is rust vs grease vs a little rust +lotta grease, it will be obvious.
If biggish ,deep rust scabs flake up/off them- JUST OFFER A LOT LESS!! It is still a decent enough frame otherwise-right?
Dirt drop is right. The absolute worst cantilever-v-brake or whatever brake from the last 15/20 years is much much better than the best 1970s state of the art Campagnolo R NR SR brake with stock pads-(the CampagnoloR NR SR brakes became almost not too bad with Scott Mathauser pads(expensive little suckers $10 in 1970's-like $35 now).All 1970's and earlier stock brakes were terrible by comparison to the cheapest dept store V-brakes. Rim surfaces have improved also, but I think it is mainly the actual brake designs, pad size, pad material that make the difference.The cables and casing probably stretch/compress less also.
Use the rust/grunge as a bargaining chip.
Luck
Charlie
If biggish ,deep rust scabs flake up/off them- JUST OFFER A LOT LESS!! It is still a decent enough frame otherwise-right?
Dirt drop is right. The absolute worst cantilever-v-brake or whatever brake from the last 15/20 years is much much better than the best 1970s state of the art Campagnolo R NR SR brake with stock pads-(the CampagnoloR NR SR brakes became almost not too bad with Scott Mathauser pads(expensive little suckers $10 in 1970's-like $35 now).All 1970's and earlier stock brakes were terrible by comparison to the cheapest dept store V-brakes. Rim surfaces have improved also, but I think it is mainly the actual brake designs, pad size, pad material that make the difference.The cables and casing probably stretch/compress less also.
Use the rust/grunge as a bargaining chip.
Luck
Charlie
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Posts: 6,301
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 273 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
9 Posts
Originally Posted by Dirtdrop
You must not have much experience with crappy brakes. You could do much worse than MAFACS.
It might just be my personal prejudices; of course, seeing what bikes you list it might be yours.
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pinole, CA, USA
Posts: 17,392
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 443 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 27 Times
in
25 Posts
Originally Posted by rmfnla
Trust me; I've have more than my share.
It might just be my personal prejudices; of course, seeing what bikes you list it might be yours.
It might just be my personal prejudices; of course, seeing what bikes you list it might be yours.
I've got MAFAC Competitions on the Raleigh, but only because it requires long-reach centerpulls and the MAFACS suck a little less than Weinmanns, IMHO.