jthoni

When changing flats, I have usually used a tire iron to get the tire back on, but can usually do without it if I need to. I just got a new rear wheel built, and the fit with my tire is so tight that it is impossible to get the last part of the tire on without the iron. About half the time, however, this results in a new flat as the tube gets pinched by the iron.

Is it possible that this rim is slightly larget than my old one (though it was really hard to do it before, but now it is impossible).

This is a Canondale F700 moutain bike with 26" wheels, and I am using slicks (commuting).

Thanks!

jim10040

I reckon it's possible, even probable. Make sure once you get the tire bead started, it stays near the smallest diameter part of the rim (not sure how to describe it). Tire levers should be your friend, and shouldn't pinch the tube. Also, I've heard that if you can't get the tire on by hand, you aren't mad enough.

Wil Davis

With an obstinate tyre the last few inches of the bead can be coaxed over the rim by making sure the rest of the bead is in the well or centre of the rim, and if the last five or six inches can't be pushed over the rim with the thumbs, then my method is to use a tyre-lever (plastic so that the rim doesn't get marked up) as show in the picture. Putting the tyre lever inside the rim, and pushing in the direction of the arrows (as show in the picture) reduces the chance of pinching the tube.

Hope this helps -

- Wil

hairytoes

Use your foot. Wear stiff-soled shoes, hold the wheel upright, with the bit of the tyre that you can't seat at the bottom. Now step on the slack tyre with the edge of your shoe, ideally pressing down on the bead. Tilt the wheel away from you.

It's hard to explain, easy to demonstrate, and gets any tyre on without pinching the tube.

AnthonyG

I think its normal to use a tire lever to fit a tire and rare for me to be able to fit a tire WITHOUT a lever. I don't pinch flat the tube when fitting however.

There's 2 things that help in this regard.

Firstly partialy inflate the tube. This helps greatly to keep it out of harms way.

Secondly make sure that the tube is centred in the rim well all the way around. I usualy do this before I start seating any of the second bead. The tube shouldn't be anywhere near the bead/rim where it will get pinched.

Regards, Anthony

tellyho

I agree - my MB has a really tight fit, requiring me to coax the last few inches of bead over the rim with a lever. This is not the case on any of my other bikes, though.

San Rensho 

With non-folding tires, I almost always have to use a tire lever to get the tire on, at least the first couple of times. After a few times of taking it off and on, they stretch and I can do it by hand.

With folding tires, I never need a tire lever.

phoebeisis

Do you lube the tire, tube, and rim with something? I usually use some very dilute simple green or very dilute liquid dish soap, or liquid hand soap. Spray it all over the place-soak everything with it,so if you manage to trap a bit of tube, it will have a chance to slip out of the way before being pinched so severely it punctures. Some folks will say the soap/detergent etc is basic, so it will corrode the rim-BS MAYBE IN 10000O YEARS!Obviously, you hose the wheels/tire off after installing it so the brake surfaces are clean(literally clean now).
AGs point on partially inflating the tube is important-inflate it-stuff the tube in with one side of the tire on-then deflate it quite a bit until you can get the other side of the tire on without the tube bulging out.
You should loosen the nut that holds the valve in place so you can tuck the tire bead underneath it.If it isn't held down by a nut just push the valve stem up a bit so you can tuck both beads fully in the lowest part of the rim.This is JIM10040 point-more or less-get the tire to sit in the lowest part-middle part-of the rim.
Start installing the second tire bead/side at the stem-that is why you have to push the stem up a bit to get the tire sorta "under" the valve and as deep in the rim as possible.
In short-ha,ha
1)USE A TON OF LUBE-EVEN PLAIN WATER IS BETTER THAN NOTHING!
2)Partially inflate tube
3)Start second side of tire at stem
4)Push stem up a bit so both tire beads can get "underneath it" sorta-but as deep in the rim as possible.
5)Use plastic levers-with dull edges-3 is better than 2.
6)At the end-for the last 10" or so-get a lever in place on either side-use the 3rd lever to literally stuff and loose tube back upwards(let some air out of the tube if it bulges down)
7)Older tires are easier to install-1st time installing a tire is hardest.
8)Once the tire is on-pump up to 20 lbs-gently bounce it around a bit to seat it,and check that the stem is at 90 degrees. Let the air out-pump to 40 psi-bounce, bounce -air out-pump to final pressure-snug down stem.
Luck,
Charlie
I frequently use tires too big for the rims-this is part of the reason I have to lift the stem up to slip the tire bead under it.The bead is that swelling at the tip of the tire-there is a tough steel wire, or tough synthetic fiber inside it.For years I had no f'ing idea what a bead was, but didn't want to ask-I didn't see any bead!!.You obviously know, but this is for other doffuses like me.

MtbVA

Soap & Water!!
I've had the same problem with a set of slicks for MTB.
It was nearly impossible to get the last few inches of the tire on & I pinched 2 tubes using a tire lever.
(I've never pinched a tube during installation before this)
I put a few drops of liquid soap in a coffee mug filled with water, soaked small rag with soapy water and wiped the tire bead.
Worked great!!!!

Dr.Deltron

+1!

I always get flamed when I say NEVER use a lever to install a tire!

But I'll try again...

On the last part of the second bead, turn the wheel so the bead is facing away from you. Now wrap your fingers over the tire and pull towards you. Always works for me, but I've got 30 years experience.

Not working for you?...... You're not mad enough!

chipcom 

One word - spit

SoonerBent

I've had many bikes and changed many, many tires. There have been lots of tire/rim combos that were pretty easy. Some that were harder. And some like my current Conti GP4000s on Velocity Uriel 650C wheels that are not going to be put on by hand. No way, no how. And I can get plenty mad.

Dr.Deltron

I haven't tried that tire/rim combo, but I sure would like to.
If I couldn't get it on by hand, it would be a first!

Bikedued

My problem isn't really getting the tire onto the rim, it's getting the bead to seat properly. Countless times I've fought with them. Lubing, inflating, deflating, partially inflating and pulling the tread side to side, lol.
A lot of times it goes on the first try, but sometimes!?!

My set of sun rhino lites(sp) are the toughest to get tires onto, and it's a good thing really. I'd rather they not come off on that particular bike.,,,,BD

Toyman991

I think it depends on the tire/rim ccombination. I can change most tires (both off and on) with my bare hands. But, as SoonerBent said, some tires cannot be put on without at least one tire iron. The celeste Michelin Axials I have on my Bianchi are the tightest fit I've ever encountered. Even after being off and on several times (flat repairs), they're still a b*tch to remount. On the other hand, GP3000s are a breeze on the same wheels (Open Pros).

hoodoo40

I have a road bike and used to use levers to put the tire back on, sometimes it worked and sometimes I got pinch flats. Here is a method I learned recently and it works for me.

When taking the tire off or on, the trick is to make sure the opposite end your are working with your hands is sunk well down into the rim (pinch the beads together). This will give those extra few milimeters on the other side that you need to pop it off or on.

For example, when taking it off, pinch the beads together (no air in tube at all) with one hand, while pulling out on the end you want to remove.

Always preinflate the tube just enough to give it shape, work the tube into the rim first, so you don't get it stuck between a bead and the rim. If you need to let it out again for the last section of bead, at least you know it's properly seated. After getting it on, pump it up a little (20 psi) and check the bead. Sometimes I'll pump it up some and roll it around, deflate and them pump it up again.

HillRider

A friend had some Michelins that WOULD NOT go onto his MA-40 rim by hand the first time, I don't care how mad anyone got. It was tire levers or nothing.

Once in a while you run into a rim made at the maximum diameter tolerance and a tire at the minimum. I've also run into the opposite where it's difficult to keep the tire from falling off the rim while seating the second bead.

jcm

Yup.

phoebeisis

There were some biconcave clincher rims that were popular in the late 1970's that were absolutely the biggest PITA to install tires on. They were a name brand, but the name escapes me now. They were touted as being"very strong". They weren't exactly light,and my Super Champion# 58 rims really served me well, so I never bothered with them.
Anyone remember those rims?
Thanks,
Charlie

Big_knob

robhunterx

I have seen a lot of variation in rim/tire combinations exactly as described above. One time the difficulty was because someone had doubled the thickness of Velox rim tape which prevented that extra room from getting the opposite bead down in the center 'well' of the rim. Most of my personal wheels have Vittoria Open Corsa tires which are extremely easy to get on & off. Some of the other less expensive Vittorias can be pretty tough however.