crypticlineage

Just wanted to confirm that I am doing this right, before I actually do it. Please advice. Thanks guys.

BikeWise1

I just run the chain through the rear derailleur, set the chain in the small-small combination and set the length so that the chain doesn't hit itself as it goes through the pulleys.

And when you are ready to reattach the chain, set it so that the open prongs on the bottom section of chain face rearward, not forward.

crypticlineage

dude, I went through all that pain for nothing? Just kidding. I think I will just follow Sheldon's tutorial though. It's easier that way.

BikeWise1

Just make sure the prongs are oriented correctly! It's important!

Bobby Lex

1. Next time, use the old chain as a template to measure the length of the new chain.

2. Use a quick-link to connect the chain ends.

3. Sheldon's method works well.

Bob

crypticlineage

Well this is a new build, so there is no old chain. Secondly, I am a little surprised that a chain as expensive as HG-93 did not come with a quick-link. Unless I overlooked something.

mtnbiker4791

Shimano doesnt do quick links

But you will need the replacement pins

crypticlineage

Good to know that. I wonder why they don't, is it chain strength issue? This makes it hard to brake and unite the chain. The new chain came with only one connecting pin.

well biked

I switched from Shimano chains to SRAM chains several years ago, at the time mostly because I liked the idea of SRAM's Powerlink connector. I was riding almost exclusively off road at the time, and I went through chains at a rate of 2-4 per year. This is strictly anecdotal, but after using both Shimano and SRAM chains on the same bikes, same trails, etc., I'm convinced that SRAM chains last longer than Shimano. Since then, I've seen reports that SRAM Powerlinks can be used on chains other than SRAM (including Shimano), but I've never been compelled to go back to Shimano chains to try it. I do know that if you strictly follow Shimano's instructions and replace the pins each time you break the chain, it can become expensive if you remove the chain very often..........I've since tried KMC's nine speed chain on a road bike, with KMC's new connector link, and not only is their connector link equal to SRAM's, the chains are generally quite a bit cheaper and I've seen nothing to indicate it's an inferior chain. Shifts smooth, stays quiet when lubed, etc. I've not the used the newer KMC chains off road, but for now, I've officially switched to KMC chains , I see no reason not to. And actually, I should clarify that I'm talking about the "Nashbar nine speed chain by KMC." They make 6/7/8 speed and 10 speed models, also-

TimJ

I've read this three times and still can't figure out what you're describing. I don't understand the "hit itself", or the "open prongs on the bottom section... face rearward" parts. I'm just curious what I'm missing because for the life of me I can't imagine what you're describing. Probably my fault, but can you elaborate?

Flanderflop

I add one full link pair from the overlap meaning you would want to cut it two pins longer. I don't know what sheldon suggests, but this is the method we use in the shop and it has worked well. on the other hand you have some slack in the chain, so it might compensate.

crypticlineage

Well biked: Good to know about your thoughts on SRAM and KMC chains. I will probably switch to SRAM too, when its time for a change.

By the way, I ended up going Sheldon Brown way and it worked out just fine. One extra link. If I decided to keep two extra links (as per one poster above and parktool instructions), I would have ended up with outer prongs on both ends, so that was obviously not going to work.

Bobby Lex

True. But Wipperman Quick-Links work with Shimano chains. I've used that combination for years.

Bob