canti to V brakes on older MTB
#1
surly old man
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times
in
18 Posts
canti to V brakes on older MTB
Some questions about doing the conversion:
1- I read somewhere that this can be done if the brake posts are 80mm apart. Is there any give on this? I have just a shade more, maybe 85.
2- I cannot use the levers from the old set-up, right? Can they ever be used? Will they work at all?
3- Anything else I may not be anticipating?
I have a decent set of V's ready to bolt on. I have levers too, but I would like to use the old ones if possible.
many thanks,
jim
1- I read somewhere that this can be done if the brake posts are 80mm apart. Is there any give on this? I have just a shade more, maybe 85.
2- I cannot use the levers from the old set-up, right? Can they ever be used? Will they work at all?
3- Anything else I may not be anticipating?
I have a decent set of V's ready to bolt on. I have levers too, but I would like to use the old ones if possible.
many thanks,
jim
#2
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by jgedwa
Some questions about doing the conversion:
1- I read somewhere that this can be done if the brake posts are 80mm apart. Is there any give on this? I have just a shade more, maybe 85.
2- I cannot use the levers from the old set-up, right? Can they ever be used? Will they work at all?
3- Anything else I may not be anticipating?
I have a decent set of V's ready to bolt on. I have levers too, but I would like to use the old ones if possible.
1- I read somewhere that this can be done if the brake posts are 80mm apart. Is there any give on this? I have just a shade more, maybe 85.
2- I cannot use the levers from the old set-up, right? Can they ever be used? Will they work at all?
3- Anything else I may not be anticipating?
I have a decent set of V's ready to bolt on. I have levers too, but I would like to use the old ones if possible.
You will need to use the new levers, they pull twice as much cable as the traditional ones, and you need that.
Sheldon "V" Brown
Code:
+---------------------------------------------------------+ | To be good is noble; but to show others how to be good | | is nobler and no trouble. --Mark Twain | +---------------------------------------------------------+
#3
surly old man
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times
in
18 Posts
Rats. Guess I have to bite the bullet and use the different levers. Which means using another handle bar I have. Which means using another stem I have. Would it just be pointless to try and see?
Thanks for the info though.
Take care Sheldon, you are a treasure to us all.
jim
Thanks for the info though.
Take care Sheldon, you are a treasure to us all.
jim
#4
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by jgedwa
Rats. Guess I have to bite the bullet and use the different levers. Which means using another handle bar I have. Which means using another stem I have. Would it just be pointless to try and see?
This is explained at: https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#brakelever
Here's a relevant excerpt:
Old short-pull lever, new direct pull ("V type") cantilever
The excessive mechanical advantage of this combination will make it difficult to modulate the brake, and it may be all too easy to lock up the wheel.
The lever feel will be very soft and mushy.
The lever will travel too far before engaging the brake, and it may bottom out against the handlebar. Thus, the brake may be super powerful at first, but as the brake shoes wear, the lever bumping up against the handlebar will prevent full application. This is likely to be a particular problem in wet conditions.
Sheldon "Don't Try This At Home...Or Anywhere Else!" BrownThe excessive mechanical advantage of this combination will make it difficult to modulate the brake, and it may be all too easy to lock up the wheel.
The lever feel will be very soft and mushy.
The lever will travel too far before engaging the brake, and it may bottom out against the handlebar. Thus, the brake may be super powerful at first, but as the brake shoes wear, the lever bumping up against the handlebar will prevent full application. This is likely to be a particular problem in wet conditions.
Code:
+--------------------------------------------------------+ | Education consists mainly in what we have unlearned. | | --Mark Twain | +--------------------------------------------------------+
#5
so much for physics
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: over there
Posts: 562
Bikes: Scott CR1 team, Fuji track pro, NYCbike, Cannondale, Free Spirit, GT Edge
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The skinny of it: Front will work too good (endo city baby!) and the rear wont work at all (eat bark!)
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
It would be dangerous to try and see.
This is explained at: https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#brakelever
Here's a relevant excerpt:
This is explained at: https://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_bo-z.html#brakelever
Here's a relevant excerpt:
Old short-pull lever, new direct pull ("V type") cantilever
The excessive mechanical advantage of this combination will make it difficult to modulate the brake, and it may be all too easy to lock up the wheel.
The lever feel will be very soft and mushy.
The lever will travel too far before engaging the brake, and it may bottom out against the handlebar. Thus, the brake may be super powerful at first, but as the brake shoes wear, the lever bumping up against the handlebar will prevent full application. This is likely to be a particular problem in wet conditions.
Sheldon "Don't Try This At Home...Or Anywhere Else!" BrownThe excessive mechanical advantage of this combination will make it difficult to modulate the brake, and it may be all too easy to lock up the wheel.
The lever feel will be very soft and mushy.
The lever will travel too far before engaging the brake, and it may bottom out against the handlebar. Thus, the brake may be super powerful at first, but as the brake shoes wear, the lever bumping up against the handlebar will prevent full application. This is likely to be a particular problem in wet conditions.
Code:
+--------------------------------------------------------+ | Education consists mainly in what we have unlearned. | | --Mark Twain | +--------------------------------------------------------+
#6
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 30
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
These guys are both absolutely correct in what they say - you need to spring for a new set of levers to *assure* that your nice new Vs will work reliably. I moved from cantis on my '94 alu-framed MTB to Vs about 18 months ago - the difference ismore than worthwhile, especially if you ride in traffic and the only other thing I would say is this - if you've got Shimano V-brakes, dump the Shimano pads and move to something softer as soon as the first pair wear out, sooner if you ride off-road a lot (where you 'll see an increased level of abrasive grime between pad and rim). Common consensus seems to be that the Shimano pad compound is very aggressive, and those $5 pads will eat your $100 wheels quite quickly. The increase in braking force that comes with V-brakes comes with an increased level of friction at the rim...
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Aurora,CO
Posts: 298
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Other option is to use QBP Travel agents or a simular device if you want to use the Linear pull brakes with your old Canti Levers.
#8
Senior Member
Originally Posted by mtnbiker4791
Other option is to use QBP Travel agents or a simular device if you want to use the Linear pull brakes with your old Canti Levers.
#9
Senior Member
Why would you need new bars and stem? MTB handlebars have always been the same diameter. Just go out an buy some new levers. They are cheap. You can always sell the old cantis and levers on ebay to help defray the cost. Good luck
Tim
Tim
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Originally Posted by jgedwa
3- Anything else I may not be anticipating?
2. How old is your bike? I had an old Raleigh Technium that had the holes for the return springs on the wrong side of the canty posts. Since the posts were welded dirrectly to the frame and fork, I never did figure out how to retrofit it with linear pull brakes.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,678
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I made the upgrade from cantilever to V type Linear pull brakes I did change my levers but you can also get some QBP Travel agents so you can use your old levers but for what they cost I bought new levers.
Why do you need to buy new bars and stem to install Linear pull brakes?
By the way upgrading the brakes made a huge difference in my stopping power it would be a highly recommended upgrade.
You can see my upgrade in some of the photos on my Tandem Project page link if you like.
Why do you need to buy new bars and stem to install Linear pull brakes?
By the way upgrading the brakes made a huge difference in my stopping power it would be a highly recommended upgrade.
You can see my upgrade in some of the photos on my Tandem Project page link if you like.
__________________
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
https://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm
#12
surly old man
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Carlisle, PA
Posts: 3,392
Bikes: IRO Mark V, Karate Monkey half fat, Trek 620 IGH, Cannondale 26/24 MTB, Amp Research B3, and more.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 46 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 42 Times
in
18 Posts
Why would it entail a different stem and bar set up?
Long, complicated story, but suffice it to say that this is a Frankenbike. And so, nothing is quite so simple as it could be. It is an old (and French, no less) MTB that I have converted for urban use. Strange bar set up; fixed gear; odd brakes, etc. All put together from parts hanging around. $15 invested in it, and I would like to keep it that way.
But I will use the proper levers as per everyone's advice.
jim
Long, complicated story, but suffice it to say that this is a Frankenbike. And so, nothing is quite so simple as it could be. It is an old (and French, no less) MTB that I have converted for urban use. Strange bar set up; fixed gear; odd brakes, etc. All put together from parts hanging around. $15 invested in it, and I would like to keep it that way.
But I will use the proper levers as per everyone's advice.
jim
#14
Senior Member
Originally Posted by JTGraphics
I made the upgrade from cantilever to V type Linear pull brakes .
Originally Posted by JTGraphics
By the way upgrading the brakes made a huge difference in my stopping power it would be a highly recommended upgrade.
You can see my upgrade in some of the photos on my Tandem Project page link if you like.
You can see my upgrade in some of the photos on my Tandem Project page link if you like.
I liken a "V-Brake" upgrade to a threadless headset. The theory is that they are a big improvement over the version they replaced. In practice there isn't any difference. V-Brakes and threadless headsets are solutions to a problem that didn't exist. Hope this doesn't start a war.
Tim
#15
Senior Member
Originally Posted by cs1
Why do so many people think V Brakes are an improvement. I have canti's on my bikes and they stop so hard I can easily do an endo on any one of them. Cantilivers just aren't that hard to set up.
I liken a "V-Brake" upgrade to a threadless headset. The theory is that they are a big improvement over the version they replaced. In practice there isn't any difference. V-Brakes and threadless headsets are solutions to a problem that didn't exist. Hope this doesn't start a war.
Tim
I liken a "V-Brake" upgrade to a threadless headset. The theory is that they are a big improvement over the version they replaced. In practice there isn't any difference. V-Brakes and threadless headsets are solutions to a problem that didn't exist. Hope this doesn't start a war.
Tim
The difference is the hand force required at the lever and degree of modulation over braking force. In both of these categories, linear pull brakes are not just somewhat but entirely and utterly superior to traditional cantilever brakes. V-brakes give powerful braking action with a lighter touch than cantis, which in combination with the stiff brake arms and single cable make for superior control over the amount of braking force.
I can do an endo with centerpull caliper brakes, too. Does that make me foolish for wanting something with better performance? I don't think so. Those brakes require a painful amount of lever force if you want that level of stopping power, and that along with the spaghetti noodle caliper arms make it difficult to control the endo when you get there.
As for ease of set-up, modern cantis that take v-brake pads have eliminated this problem, but there is no doubt that smooth-post cantis are perhaps the second-most frustrating brake to adjust, ever. Only the Mafac centerpulls are worse. With practice it becomes a lot easier, yes, but any moron can correctly adjust v-brakes the first time out.
I've used both cantis and v-brakes pretty extensively, and there is really no reason to believe that they are equivalent. Don't get me wrong, cantilever brakes are perfectly good and plenty powerful, but v-brakes are better. There isn't any getting around that.
#16
Hazardous biker
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Bogotá, Colombia
Posts: 602
Bikes: 2005 Santa Cruz Blur Classic
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cs1
...The theory is that they are a big improvement over the version they replaced. In practice there isn't any difference. V-Brakes and threadless headsets are solutions to a problem that didn't exist. Hope this doesn't start a war.
Tim
Tim
v-brakes and threadless headset are not solutions, they are improvements. They just work better than their older counterparts.
Ricardo
#17
Senior Member
Originally Posted by grolby
Have you ever used v-brakes? It's difficult to take comments like this very seriously.
Tim
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Originally Posted by cs1
The biggest advantage of V-Brakes is in setup. Canti's are more time consuming to setup properly.
#19
Junior Member
Just for fun....and to be educated by those who have already traveled where I am about to travel....
Grolby wrote "...but there is no doubt that smooth-post cantis are perhaps the second-most frustrating brake to adjust, ever. " What is a smoot post vs the "alternative"? I took some mid '80s Shimano canti's off my project frame, has three little holes for spring inside...are there other types? I was going to replace them with a nice set of Avid Shortys.....not sure why....maybe a waste of money...just look better.
Then I started to consider V brakes....since most of the riding will be commuting....they will stop you in a a hurry will get water off faster than Canti's....
But they have GOT TO weigh much more. Brakes are my least concern, drive train and some awesome wheels are where I am going to focus my $$$. I just need something that works when needed so I am almost inclined to polish up the Shimano's and leave the brakes stock.
Or, the more I think about it, take the nice 'looking' canti's off my Burley Duet and upgrade to V-pulls there....where I do need more braking power...and put those canti's on my commuter.
Experts? Are there different post types I need to learn about before I tear things appart? Won't V-pulls add weight over Canti's? Other things I should know? Cable stops are key.
Grolby wrote "...but there is no doubt that smooth-post cantis are perhaps the second-most frustrating brake to adjust, ever. " What is a smoot post vs the "alternative"? I took some mid '80s Shimano canti's off my project frame, has three little holes for spring inside...are there other types? I was going to replace them with a nice set of Avid Shortys.....not sure why....maybe a waste of money...just look better.
Then I started to consider V brakes....since most of the riding will be commuting....they will stop you in a a hurry will get water off faster than Canti's....
But they have GOT TO weigh much more. Brakes are my least concern, drive train and some awesome wheels are where I am going to focus my $$$. I just need something that works when needed so I am almost inclined to polish up the Shimano's and leave the brakes stock.
Or, the more I think about it, take the nice 'looking' canti's off my Burley Duet and upgrade to V-pulls there....where I do need more braking power...and put those canti's on my commuter.
Experts? Are there different post types I need to learn about before I tear things appart? Won't V-pulls add weight over Canti's? Other things I should know? Cable stops are key.
Last edited by AD-SLE; 01-13-07 at 09:27 AM.
#20
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by cs1
Yes, I have riden bikes with V-Brakes. They work well. They really don't work any better than canitlevers IMO. The biggest advantage of V-Brakes is in setup. It is easier for the average rider to dial in V-Brakes. Canti's are more time consuming to setup properly. That is why most people complain about canti's, they aren't setup correctly. A properly tuned cantilever brake is all the braking power the average rider needs.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment
"V-type" brakes also solve cable routing issues for a number of frame designs. In particular, bikes with rear suspension can often be challenging/impossible for traditional cantis. Many recumbent designs also have issues with them, issues that are very neatly solved by V-type brakes.
I personally like the elegant simplicity of the "V type" brake design better than the more complicated traditional center-pull cantilever.
The only problem I see with "V type" brakes is that they do require special brake levers that pull more cable. These are widely available for straight bars, but none of the options for drop bars is much good.
Sheldon "V" Brown
Code:
+---------------------------------------------------------------+ | There are 10 kinds of people in this world: | | Those who understand the binary system, and those who don't | +---------------------------------------------------------------+
#21
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
"Properly set up" is a biggie. If you look at a random selection of bikes with traditional cantilevers, I doubt that 10% of them _are_ properly set up.
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment
"V-type" brakes also solve cable routing issues for a number of frame designs. In particular, bikes with rear suspension can often be challenging/impossible for traditional cantis. Many recumbent designs also have issues with them, issues that are very neatly solved by V-type brakes.
I personally like the elegant simplicity of the "V type" brake design better than the more complicated traditional center-pull cantilever.
The only problem I see with "V type" brakes is that they do require special brake levers that pull more cable. These are widely available for straight bars, but none of the options for drop bars is much good.
Sheldon "V" Brown
See: https://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment
"V-type" brakes also solve cable routing issues for a number of frame designs. In particular, bikes with rear suspension can often be challenging/impossible for traditional cantis. Many recumbent designs also have issues with them, issues that are very neatly solved by V-type brakes.
I personally like the elegant simplicity of the "V type" brake design better than the more complicated traditional center-pull cantilever.
The only problem I see with "V type" brakes is that they do require special brake levers that pull more cable. These are widely available for straight bars, but none of the options for drop bars is much good.
Sheldon "V" Brown
Code:
+---------------------------------------------------------------+ | There are 10 kinds of people in this world: | | Those who understand the binary system, and those who don't | +---------------------------------------------------------------+
Tim
#22
Videre non videri
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
Posts: 3,208
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
The only problem I see with "V type" brakes is that they do require special brake levers that pull more cable. These are widely available for straight bars, but none of the options for drop bars is much good.
I have them on my bike, and haven't had a problem with them over the 3000 miles I've used them.
Well, except for the tiny locking screw, which screws into soft aluminium. Naturally, I messed it up and destroyed the outer 1-2 threads on one of them. I can still screw it in, but it takes more fiddling and time. Once in, it's solid, though.
A better solution would be to make regular V levers with a smarter mounting system, so they can be mounted on drop bars as well. But for some reason, the manufacturers have decided to not allow anyone to do that. I've no idea why they're so stupid (they'd sell more, for almost no extra effort), but I know I can't do anything about it...
#23
Senior Member
Originally Posted by AD-SLE
Just for fun....and to be educated by those who have already traveled where I am about to travel....
Grolby wrote "...but there is no doubt that smooth-post cantis are perhaps the second-most frustrating brake to adjust, ever. " What is a smoot post vs the "alternative"? I took some mid '80s Shimano canti's off my project frame, has three little holes for spring inside...are there other types? I was going to replace them with a nice set of Avid Shortys.....not sure why....maybe a waste of money...just look better.
Then I started to consider V brakes....since most of the riding will be commuting....they will stop you in a a hurry will get water off faster than Canti's....
But they have GOT TO weigh much more. Brakes are my least concern, drive train and some awesome wheels are where I am going to focus my $$$. I just need something that works when needed so I am almost inclined to polish up the Shimano's and leave the brakes stock.
Or, the more I think about it, take the nice 'looking' canti's off my Burley Duet and upgrade to V-pulls there....where I do need more braking power...and put those canti's on my commuter.
Experts? Are there different post types I need to learn about before I tear things appart? Won't V-pulls add weight over Canti's? Other things I should know? Cable stops are key.
Grolby wrote "...but there is no doubt that smooth-post cantis are perhaps the second-most frustrating brake to adjust, ever. " What is a smoot post vs the "alternative"? I took some mid '80s Shimano canti's off my project frame, has three little holes for spring inside...are there other types? I was going to replace them with a nice set of Avid Shortys.....not sure why....maybe a waste of money...just look better.
Then I started to consider V brakes....since most of the riding will be commuting....they will stop you in a a hurry will get water off faster than Canti's....
But they have GOT TO weigh much more. Brakes are my least concern, drive train and some awesome wheels are where I am going to focus my $$$. I just need something that works when needed so I am almost inclined to polish up the Shimano's and leave the brakes stock.
Or, the more I think about it, take the nice 'looking' canti's off my Burley Duet and upgrade to V-pulls there....where I do need more braking power...and put those canti's on my commuter.
Experts? Are there different post types I need to learn about before I tear things appart? Won't V-pulls add weight over Canti's? Other things I should know? Cable stops are key.
(By the way, the MOST difficult to adjust brake I've ever used was an old MAFAC centerpull, which also used smooth post hardware - but has even less room to maneuver and fewer degrees of freedom than a cantilever brake.)
I'm not sure how V-brakes could possibly weigh much more than traditional cantis. The difference is entirely negligible. V's can quite possibly be made to weigh less, due to the simplicity of the design. Certainly, modern v-brakes are lighter than the cantis of yesteryear.
CdCf - The problem with the 287-V levers is high cable friction, mostly. I've got mine pretty well dialed-in, now, but for the first 400 miles or so they were problematic. They're very particular about cable routing, in my experience. I also just don't think that they're particularly nice levers. The hoods are kind of narrow and hard, and there's the issue you mentioned with the mounting screw. I've half a mind to eventually replace my whole braking system with a nice pair of modern cantilevers and Cane Creek SCR-5 levers, or the Tektro equivalent. It's also rather disappointing not to be able to use cross levers with them, though that's not really the fault of the levers.
#24
Videre non videri
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Gothenburg, Sweden
Posts: 3,208
Bikes: 1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
Originally Posted by grolby
CdCf - The problem with the 287-V levers is high cable friction, mostly. I've got mine pretty well dialed-in, now, but for the first 400 miles or so they were problematic. They're very particular about cable routing, in my experience. I also just don't think that they're particularly nice levers. The hoods are kind of narrow and hard, and there's the issue you mentioned with the mounting screw.
The hoods? Well, I never use them, except to hang my helmet on when I'm off the bike for a while. So that's not an issue for me.
Nice? Hmm, they look clean and sleek, and I can't really say that their either good or bad. I don't buy bike components primarily based on what they look like. Well, not unless there's a costless choice between silver and black, in which case I go with silver.
#25
Gone, but not forgotten
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Newtonville, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,301
Bikes: See: https://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
5 Posts
Originally Posted by CdCf
Hmm, what's wrong with the Dia-Compe 287-V levers? I know you've used them.
This can be helped by unconventional cable routing, as I did on my Thorn Raven, where I deliberately did not run the cables under the tape. If you go under the tape, there's a nasty bend as the cable exits the internal noodle.
The 287V pulls more cable than any other drop-bar lever, just barely enough to be acceptable for "V-type" brakes.
Originally Posted by CdCf
A better solution would be to make regular V levers with a smarter mounting system, so they can be mounted on drop bars as well. But for some reason, the manufacturers have decided to not allow anyone to do that. I've no idea why they're so stupid (they'd sell more, for almost no extra effort), but I know I can't do anything about it...
First of all, standard "V-type" brake levers, like other levers made for straight bars, bend away from the handlebar to provide good clearance. Levers for drop bars need to bend toward the bars or you wouldn't be able to reach the bottom of the lever with your fingers from the drop position.
Levers for drop bars need to be operable from the hoods as well as the drops, but "V type" brakes require a long pull lever.
The way you make a long pull lever is by having a longer distance from the lever pivot to the cable attachment. This requires a physically larger body. Since the market demands "aero" type cable routing, where the cable runs above the pivot, you either need to move the cable up or the pivot down.
The 287V moves the cable up as far as is possible. Moving the pivot down would cause the lever to be difficult/impossible to operate from the hoods.
Sheldon "Not As Easy As You Might Imagine" Brown
Code:
+---------------------------------------+ | Whatever became of eternal truth? | +---------------------------------------+