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  1. #1
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    Flushing Sturmey Archer hub

    No, I don't mean down the toilet, its still in pretty good shape.

    Just bought a Raliegh that has a very dry SA hub. Is there a way to flush it with solvent and then re-oil without having to take it apart?
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

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  2. #2
    Senior Member TimJ's Avatar
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    It doesn't take much to take it apart just enough to flush it out well. I took off the bolts on the drive side and just lifted out the cog and what was attached to it and it exposed most of the insides without dissassembling anything else. I flushed it out with wd-40 and then oiled it and it works great. I've been told if you don't want to take it apart at all just pumping it full of wd-40, draining it, then pumping it full of oil (the excess will drip out) is OK to do and better than nothing.

    I had the same question a while back and someone gave me a great link to a step by step tutorial on taking the hub apart. If you do a search for sturmey archer under my username you might be able to find it. Some dude put of photos of each stage.
    fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
    "Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."

  3. #3
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TimJ
    It doesn't take much to take it apart just enough to flush it out well. I took off the bolts on the drive side and just lifted out the cog...
    There are no "bolts" on a Sturmey-Archer hub. ;-)

    If you're only going to open one end, it's better to open the left end...the right cone is a critical adjustment. Also, you risk the axle key shifting out of position if you do this, that's the wrong sequence.

    I have service instructions at: http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/aw.html

    However, there's really no need to take it apart if it's working OK, just oil it and ride. Flushing is a waste of time.

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  4. #4
    Senior Member TimJ's Avatar
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    Nuts. I removed the nuts. Yes, nuts.

    Yeah I know what you mean about the axle key, I got lucky I suppose but it was nice just to check out the innards. It was in good shape but still I was able to get a bunch of black particulate to come out that was kind of stuck to some of the insides. It made me feel better, at least. I doubt I would have been able to sleep if I hadn't taken it apart.
    fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
    "Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."

  5. #5
    jcm
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  6. #6
    Senior Member TimJ's Avatar
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    Yes, that's it. All I removed was the right axle nut, locknut and the cone, and the cog plus driver plus ball ring all came out as one unit (if I remember correctly). It was super easy and exposed most of the interior with very little work. I didn't mess with removing the cog at all. Actually I think I did take out the thrust ring, indicator key and clutch now that I look at the diagram. I was confusing it with a 333 hub I took apart. It was easy to get back together actually because everything else stayed put.
    fun facts: Psychopaths have trouble understanding abstract concepts.
    "Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."

  7. #7
    Senior Member grolby's Avatar
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    Heh, if you're the fellow who managed to successfully pull apart, repair and reassemble a 333 hub by the seat of his pants a month or two ago... just do whatever the heck you want to with the Sturmey. If you can do it with the 333, the AW must be a piece of cake. My hat is off to you!

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