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  1. #1
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    How can this crank be stuck?!?!

    I installed my used Ultegra Hollowtech II crankset on my indoor trainer bike just before Christmas. The bikie has not left the house. I've actually sat on it and clipped into the pedals only once or twice on the trainer. I just went to remove the crankset (have a new tool to play with to properly torque the adapter cups) and the left crankarm won't budge. It's like it's glued on! Any ideas? I've totally loosened the bolts on both sides of the crank arm too. Please help if you can.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Okay, I'm replying to my own post. Finally, with some persuassion from a rubber mallet, I've removed the crank arm. Please bear with me, I've never done any of this before. I should probably call this project, "the bike that Bike Forum built." Now that I've finally gotten it off, I have two questions:

    1. Did I risk damaging the crank arm by using the mallet on it? It is hollow right?
    2. I guess I should really grease the inside teeth of that crank arm before re-installing?

    Thanks in advance

  3. #3
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    Holy crow, you did use a crank puller right? One of these?



    If not, that's a rookie eff up. If anything is damaged it will most likely be the splined bb/crank interface. Might not be too bad though. Maybe show your lbs the crank?

  4. #4
    cyclist/gearhead/cycli... moxfyre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mander
    Holy crow, you did use a crank puller right? One of these?



    If not, that's a rookie eff up. Might not be too bad though. Maybe show your lbs the crank?
    Plainsman's crank is a Hollowtech II model. Uses a new-fangled external BB. It doesn't take a stadnard crank puller. I don't know much about 'em. Maybe somebody with a lot of experience installing ext-bearing cranksets can help here?
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  5. #5
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    My mistake! Sorry plainsman

  6. #6
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    There Is a black plastic piece in the pinch point. The two screws hold it in place. This piece has a steel pin sticking out of it that fits a hole in the spindle, to make sure the arms are aligned.. It is possible to stick a crank on with out removing it as one of the holes is slotted and it can swing out of the way, but when removing the arm it is easier to pull the screws out and remove this piece. You may have bent the pin tapping the arm off.
    You do need to grease the splines when installing, but some times it takes a tap to get the arm moving after it has been installed
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  7. #7
    Zippy Engineer Waldo's Avatar
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    Cool, Chuck is alive.

  8. #8
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
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    All Hail Rev.Chuck!

  9. #9
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
    There Is a black plastic piece in the pinch point. The two screws hold it in place. This piece has a steel pin sticking out of it that fits a hole in the spindle, to make sure the arms are aligned.. It is possible to stick a crank on with out removing it as one of the holes is slotted and it can swing out of the way, but when removing the arm it is easier to pull the screws out and remove this piece. You may have bent the pin tapping the arm off.
    You do need to grease the splines when installing, but some times it takes a tap to get the arm moving after it has been installed
    Is the black plastic piece you are talking about item #7 in this diagram?

    http://bike.shimano.com/media/cyclin...9830572844.pdf

    If so, my crankset did not come with that piece. I have heard others say as well that sometimes the Ultegras leave that piece out. If that's the case, is there some other tool I should have used to remove the crank arm? It simply slides on, and when reading Zinn I didn't see a mention of any tool to use in taking it off. I don't want to risk riding this (once I put it back together) if I could have really damaged it somehow.

  10. #10
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    #7 is the part I was talking about. You have to take #1 off as well
    It usually takes a tap with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet to get the arm moving. It is not an interference fit but the tolerance is very close so the arm does not want to move once the bolts have pinched it into place.
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
    #7 is the part I was talking about. You have to take #1 off as well
    It usually takes a tap with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet to get the arm moving. It is not an interference fit but the tolerance is very close so the arm does not want to move once the bolts have pinched it into place.
    Thanks for the help. I did take off part #1 , not that I want commit some other total newb blunder down the road though. Sounds like I should be okay then? I checked out the spindle and the left crank arm after my last post and couldn't find any signs of damage, at least as far as I can tell. I didn't have to slam it with the mallet to get it off, though it did take several taps to work it loose. So I'm about to put it back on again. Let me make sure I understand this: I DO NOT need to grease the spline where the crank arm attaches. Since it has the external bearings, is there anything at this point I should grease?

  12. #12
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    You do want to grease the splines. You want to do that with any splined crank/BB axle. If you do a square taper you do not want to grease the taper.
    I also put some grease where the bearings ride even tho they do not turn on this point. (It can't hurt)
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  13. #13
    Senior Member Plainsman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the good advice. Will do. I neglected to grease the splines last time, and I think that is where I got into trouble.

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