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Old 01-19-07, 07:44 PM   #1
Plainsman
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How can this crank be stuck?!?!

I installed my used Ultegra Hollowtech II crankset on my indoor trainer bike just before Christmas. The bikie has not left the house. I've actually sat on it and clipped into the pedals only once or twice on the trainer. I just went to remove the crankset (have a new tool to play with to properly torque the adapter cups) and the left crankarm won't budge. It's like it's glued on! Any ideas? I've totally loosened the bolts on both sides of the crank arm too. Please help if you can.
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Old 01-19-07, 10:38 PM   #2
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Okay, I'm replying to my own post. Finally, with some persuassion from a rubber mallet, I've removed the crank arm. Please bear with me, I've never done any of this before. I should probably call this project, "the bike that Bike Forum built." Now that I've finally gotten it off, I have two questions:

1. Did I risk damaging the crank arm by using the mallet on it? It is hollow right?
2. I guess I should really grease the inside teeth of that crank arm before re-installing?

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-19-07, 11:06 PM   #3
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Holy crow, you did use a crank puller right? One of these?



If not, that's a rookie eff up. If anything is damaged it will most likely be the splined bb/crank interface. Might not be too bad though. Maybe show your lbs the crank?
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Old 01-19-07, 11:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mander
Holy crow, you did use a crank puller right? One of these?



If not, that's a rookie eff up. Might not be too bad though. Maybe show your lbs the crank?
Plainsman's crank is a Hollowtech II model. Uses a new-fangled external BB. It doesn't take a stadnard crank puller. I don't know much about 'em. Maybe somebody with a lot of experience installing ext-bearing cranksets can help here?
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Old 01-19-07, 11:13 PM   #5
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My mistake! Sorry plainsman
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Old 01-19-07, 11:27 PM   #6
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There Is a black plastic piece in the pinch point. The two screws hold it in place. This piece has a steel pin sticking out of it that fits a hole in the spindle, to make sure the arms are aligned.. It is possible to stick a crank on with out removing it as one of the holes is slotted and it can swing out of the way, but when removing the arm it is easier to pull the screws out and remove this piece. You may have bent the pin tapping the arm off.
You do need to grease the splines when installing, but some times it takes a tap to get the arm moving after it has been installed
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Old 01-20-07, 09:25 PM   #7
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Cool, Chuck is alive.
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Old 01-21-07, 07:00 AM   #8
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All Hail Rev.Chuck!
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Old 01-26-07, 08:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
There Is a black plastic piece in the pinch point. The two screws hold it in place. This piece has a steel pin sticking out of it that fits a hole in the spindle, to make sure the arms are aligned.. It is possible to stick a crank on with out removing it as one of the holes is slotted and it can swing out of the way, but when removing the arm it is easier to pull the screws out and remove this piece. You may have bent the pin tapping the arm off.
You do need to grease the splines when installing, but some times it takes a tap to get the arm moving after it has been installed
Is the black plastic piece you are talking about item #7 in this diagram?

http://bike.shimano.com/media/cyclin...9830572844.pdf

If so, my crankset did not come with that piece. I have heard others say as well that sometimes the Ultegras leave that piece out. If that's the case, is there some other tool I should have used to remove the crank arm? It simply slides on, and when reading Zinn I didn't see a mention of any tool to use in taking it off. I don't want to risk riding this (once I put it back together) if I could have really damaged it somehow.
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Old 01-26-07, 08:59 PM   #10
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#7 is the part I was talking about. You have to take #1 off as well
It usually takes a tap with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet to get the arm moving. It is not an interference fit but the tolerance is very close so the arm does not want to move once the bolts have pinched it into place.
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Old 01-26-07, 10:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
#7 is the part I was talking about. You have to take #1 off as well
It usually takes a tap with a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet to get the arm moving. It is not an interference fit but the tolerance is very close so the arm does not want to move once the bolts have pinched it into place.
Thanks for the help. I did take off part #1 , not that I want commit some other total newb blunder down the road though. Sounds like I should be okay then? I checked out the spindle and the left crank arm after my last post and couldn't find any signs of damage, at least as far as I can tell. I didn't have to slam it with the mallet to get it off, though it did take several taps to work it loose. So I'm about to put it back on again. Let me make sure I understand this: I DO NOT need to grease the spline where the crank arm attaches. Since it has the external bearings, is there anything at this point I should grease?
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Old 01-26-07, 10:24 PM   #12
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You do want to grease the splines. You want to do that with any splined crank/BB axle. If you do a square taper you do not want to grease the taper.
I also put some grease where the bearings ride even tho they do not turn on this point. (It can't hurt)
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Old 01-27-07, 12:08 AM   #13
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Thanks for the good advice. Will do. I neglected to grease the splines last time, and I think that is where I got into trouble.
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