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  1. #1
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    Which front brake cable stop?

    I'm doing my first bike build; a Surly Cross-Check. I'm only agonizing over one part choice, the front brake cable stop. Brakes will most likely be Tektro Oryx cantis; fork is standard Surly cro-mo.

    Option 1 - Steering tube mounted:
    http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...age&sku=BR3360

    Option 2 - Fork crown mounted:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...sporting-goods

    Option 1 seems to be most typically used, is available in black (which I'd prefer), and would look cleaner IMO.

    The only reason I'm considering Option 2 is that I've read all these horror stories about problems with cantis squealing and/or chattering, and some have said that a fork crown mounted cable stop solved their problem. I don't really like "the look," and I have some concern that any loosening of the mounting nut (although it appears to be a locking nut) could cause a loss of front braking.

    OTOH, I don't want to build it up using Option 1 only to have problems and then have to rebuild with Option 2.

    Any advice?
    Last edited by waffenschmidt; 01-19-07 at 09:59 PM.

  2. #2
    road rash/tree burn
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    Well, my cantis have never squealed, so I can't speak to fixing that problem, but my cross bike uses option #1 and I've never had any trouble with it.

  3. #3
    Unique Vintage Steel cuda2k's Avatar
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    I use option 1 on my Canti equipped tourer. The only worry is that the increased stack height of adding the cable hanger will reduce the number of threads for the lock nut (if a threaded headset), or for threadless, making it difficult to route the cable to the stop with the desired amount of spacers.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by truckin
    Well, my cantis have never squealed, so I can't speak to fixing that problem, but my cross bike uses option #1 and I've never had any trouble with it.
    I suppose I could be worried about nothing, or at least something that has a low probability of occurring. You know how it is, the 1% of people who have problems are the ones you read about on forums like this. The other 99% don't start threads to tell everyone their brakes are working fine.

  5. #5
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    (double post - forum problems)
    Last edited by waffenschmidt; 01-21-07 at 07:02 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cuda2k
    I use option 1 on my Canti equipped tourer. The only worry is that the increased stack height of adding the cable hanger will reduce the number of threads for the lock nut (if a threaded headset), or for threadless, making it difficult to route the cable to the stop with the desired amount of spacers.
    It's a threadless headset on a new fork, so I have plenty of steerer tube to work with. And I don't think the additional stack height will be an issue, since I'm sure I'll have some spacers under the stem anyway.

    Anyone else have have experience with steerer-mounted cable stops and cantis, good or bad?

  7. #7
    mousse de chocolat Moose's Avatar
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    I'd go with option 1, seems inherently stronger. I am not sure how the other would help with chattering and squealing.

  8. #8
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
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    Option #2 looks to use a nyloc nut. Chances of this nut coming off unintentionally is negligible.

  9. #9
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    Hi there.
    In my mind, both variant are equally.
    Don't remember about adjusting barrel. If you not have adjusting barrel on levers, then your must have adjusting barrel on the hanger.
    Sincerelly yours, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen H.

  10. #10
    Senior Member fenester's Avatar
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    +1 on Oxygen's comment, make sure you have an adjustment barrel somewhere in the line. I have a steering tube mounted hanger w/ barrel adjuster on my crosscheck w/ Avid 6 brakes. Had a bit of squeal w/ original pads, swapped them for KoolStop salmon's and adjusted well, no trouble since.
    "Mobility without effort constitutes a kind of unreal happiness, a suspension of existence, an irresponsibility."

  11. #11
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    I advise that, because i make make this error too Unfortunately i already buy items on Option 1 - Steering tube mounted. And only after that, i think about adjustment barrel. Dear fenester, can I solve this problem? May be exists any gadget, mounted on housing brake (abruption).
    With respect, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen_h.

  12. #12
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waffenschmidt
    It's a threadless headset on a new fork, so I have plenty of steerer tube to work with. And I don't think the additional stack height will be an issue, since I'm sure I'll have some spacers under the stem anyway.

    Anyone else have have experience with steerer-mounted cable stops and cantis, good or bad?
    Squealing brakes are more of a problem with the brake arms than with the cable hanger. Avid cantis squeal like stuck pigs no matter what you do...or they will eventually. Go with the hanger on the stem. The added bonus is that you can mess with the stem, i.e. change it, flip it, etc, and not lose the adjustment on the headset.

    For adjusters use one of the Jagwire in-line adjusters. I have them on all the cables. You can make adjustments on the fly.
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  13. #13
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxygen_H
    I advise that, because i make make this error too Unfortunately i already buy items on Option 1 - Steering tube mounted. And only after that, i think about adjustment barrel. Dear fenester, can I solve this problem? May be exists any gadget, mounted on housing brake (abruption).
    With respect, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen_h.
    Jagwire in-line adjusters will fix this without problem.
    Stuart Black
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    Days of Wineless Roads. Bed and Breakfasting along the KATY
    Twisting Down the Alley. Misadventures in tornado alley.
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  14. #14
    me have long head tube TallRider's Avatar
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    How might the different hanger cause or stop squealing? The possible differences are
    • fork-mounted hanger is closer to the brakes, and has less exposed cable to stretch (however, cable can stretch inside or outside of cable housing, so this is irrelevant)
    • one hanger model may flex more than the other - but in this case I think that the fork-mounted cable stop looks less rigid and as such might have more problems

    However, I don't see meaningful differences in brake squeal as coming from your choice of cable stops. It has a lot more to do with the brakes and their adjustment.

  15. #15
    Senior Member fenester's Avatar
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    Glad you had a suggestion cyccommute. Oxygen, I'm sorry I can't point you to where I got my hanger w/ barrel adjuster; the bike shop I had build up my bike installed it for me.
    "Mobility without effort constitutes a kind of unreal happiness, a suspension of existence, an irresponsibility."

  16. #16
    Get on your bikes & ride! xB_Nutt's Avatar
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    Option 1 has worked great for me on 3 bikes. No squealing here. Angle the leading edge of pads in a slight amount. This will help cut down on/eliminate the squeal. Good luck with the build and let us see it when you are done.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by timcupery
    How might the different hanger cause or stop squealing? The possible differences are
    • fork-mounted hanger is closer to the brakes, and has less exposed cable to stretch (however, cable can stretch inside or outside of cable housing, so this is irrelevant)
    • one hanger model may flex more than the other - but in this case I think that the fork-mounted cable stop looks less rigid and as such might have more problems
    However, I don't see meaningful differences in brake squeal as coming from your choice of cable stops. It has a lot more to do with the brakes and their adjustment.
    I've thought a lot (probably too much) about this. I think it has more to do with chattering than squealing, which I believe is the context in which I read that changing to a fork crown mounted stop solved someone's problems. The only explanation I can think of is that hard stops cause the steering tube to flex, and having the stop mounted on the flexing tube sets up some sort of a feedback loop resulting in chattering.

    At least that's my theory, and I'm sticking to it
    Last edited by waffenschmidt; 01-23-07 at 07:52 PM.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute
    For adjusters use one of the Jagwire in-line adjusters. I have them on all the cables. You can make adjustments on the fly.
    I thought about this, and ultimately decided to spend a bit more than the in-line adjusters and install cross (interrupter) levers. The cross levers have adjusters on them. I was thinking about installing them anyway for convenience/safety in case I find myself riding on the flats (this is my first drop bar bike in recent history). The fact that they also can serve as adjusters put me over the top on that decision.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute
    Squealing brakes are more of a problem with the brake arms than with the cable hanger. Avid cantis squeal like stuck pigs no matter what you do...or they will eventually.
    I've read that about the Avids too. I've also read that the Tektro Oryx are a bit looser on the shaft than some of the other options such as the Shimano R550s. But the Tektros are about half the price and most people seem to have pretty good luck with them.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cyccommute
    Jagwire in-line adjusters will fix this without problem.
    Dear cyccommute, very thanx.
    Oxygen_H

  21. #21
    Yup pyze-guy's Avatar
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    I've used option 2 before. Never had any issues with it coming loose or shifting.
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  22. #22
    Mad bike riding scientist cyccommute's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oxygen_H
    Dear cyccommute, very thanx.
    Oxygen_H
    Glad to help.
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