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Old 01-19-07, 10:53 PM   #1
waffenschmidt
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Which front brake cable stop?

I'm doing my first bike build; a Surly Cross-Check. I'm only agonizing over one part choice, the front brake cable stop. Brakes will most likely be Tektro Oryx cantis; fork is standard Surly cro-mo.

Option 1 - Steering tube mounted:
http://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...age&sku=BR3360

Option 2 - Fork crown mounted:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...sporting-goods

Option 1 seems to be most typically used, is available in black (which I'd prefer), and would look cleaner IMO.

The only reason I'm considering Option 2 is that I've read all these horror stories about problems with cantis squealing and/or chattering, and some have said that a fork crown mounted cable stop solved their problem. I don't really like "the look," and I have some concern that any loosening of the mounting nut (although it appears to be a locking nut) could cause a loss of front braking.

OTOH, I don't want to build it up using Option 1 only to have problems and then have to rebuild with Option 2.

Any advice?

Last edited by waffenschmidt; 01-19-07 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 01-20-07, 09:51 PM   #2
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Well, my cantis have never squealed, so I can't speak to fixing that problem, but my cross bike uses option #1 and I've never had any trouble with it.
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Old 01-20-07, 10:50 PM   #3
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I use option 1 on my Canti equipped tourer. The only worry is that the increased stack height of adding the cable hanger will reduce the number of threads for the lock nut (if a threaded headset), or for threadless, making it difficult to route the cable to the stop with the desired amount of spacers.
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Old 01-21-07, 12:03 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by truckin
Well, my cantis have never squealed, so I can't speak to fixing that problem, but my cross bike uses option #1 and I've never had any trouble with it.
I suppose I could be worried about nothing, or at least something that has a low probability of occurring. You know how it is, the 1% of people who have problems are the ones you read about on forums like this. The other 99% don't start threads to tell everyone their brakes are working fine.
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Old 01-21-07, 12:21 AM   #5
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(double post - forum problems)

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Old 01-21-07, 08:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by cuda2k
I use option 1 on my Canti equipped tourer. The only worry is that the increased stack height of adding the cable hanger will reduce the number of threads for the lock nut (if a threaded headset), or for threadless, making it difficult to route the cable to the stop with the desired amount of spacers.
It's a threadless headset on a new fork, so I have plenty of steerer tube to work with. And I don't think the additional stack height will be an issue, since I'm sure I'll have some spacers under the stem anyway.

Anyone else have have experience with steerer-mounted cable stops and cantis, good or bad?
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Old 01-22-07, 01:58 AM   #7
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I'd go with option 1, seems inherently stronger. I am not sure how the other would help with chattering and squealing.
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Old 01-22-07, 04:53 AM   #8
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Option #2 looks to use a nyloc nut. Chances of this nut coming off unintentionally is negligible.
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Old 01-22-07, 06:05 AM   #9
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Hi there.
In my mind, both variant are equally.
Don't remember about adjusting barrel. If you not have adjusting barrel on levers, then your must have adjusting barrel on the hanger.
Sincerelly yours, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen H.
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Old 01-22-07, 10:53 AM   #10
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+1 on Oxygen's comment, make sure you have an adjustment barrel somewhere in the line. I have a steering tube mounted hanger w/ barrel adjuster on my crosscheck w/ Avid 6 brakes. Had a bit of squeal w/ original pads, swapped them for KoolStop salmon's and adjusted well, no trouble since.
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Old 01-23-07, 12:02 AM   #11
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I advise that, because i make make this error too Unfortunately i already buy items on Option 1 - Steering tube mounted. And only after that, i think about adjustment barrel. Dear fenester, can I solve this problem? May be exists any gadget, mounted on housing brake (abruption).
With respect, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen_h.
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Old 01-23-07, 01:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waffenschmidt
It's a threadless headset on a new fork, so I have plenty of steerer tube to work with. And I don't think the additional stack height will be an issue, since I'm sure I'll have some spacers under the stem anyway.

Anyone else have have experience with steerer-mounted cable stops and cantis, good or bad?
Squealing brakes are more of a problem with the brake arms than with the cable hanger. Avid cantis squeal like stuck pigs no matter what you do...or they will eventually. Go with the hanger on the stem. The added bonus is that you can mess with the stem, i.e. change it, flip it, etc, and not lose the adjustment on the headset.

For adjusters use one of the Jagwire in-line adjusters. I have them on all the cables. You can make adjustments on the fly.
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Old 01-23-07, 01:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oxygen_H
I advise that, because i make make this error too Unfortunately i already buy items on Option 1 - Steering tube mounted. And only after that, i think about adjustment barrel. Dear fenester, can I solve this problem? May be exists any gadget, mounted on housing brake (abruption).
With respect, Viacheslav Besedin aka Oxygen_h.
Jagwire in-line adjusters will fix this without problem.
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Old 01-23-07, 02:02 PM   #14
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How might the different hanger cause or stop squealing? The possible differences are
  • fork-mounted hanger is closer to the brakes, and has less exposed cable to stretch (however, cable can stretch inside or outside of cable housing, so this is irrelevant)
  • one hanger model may flex more than the other - but in this case I think that the fork-mounted cable stop looks less rigid and as such might have more problems
However, I don't see meaningful differences in brake squeal as coming from your choice of cable stops. It has a lot more to do with the brakes and their adjustment.
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Old 01-23-07, 02:05 PM   #15
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Glad you had a suggestion cyccommute. Oxygen, I'm sorry I can't point you to where I got my hanger w/ barrel adjuster; the bike shop I had build up my bike installed it for me.
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Old 01-23-07, 02:24 PM   #16
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Option 1 has worked great for me on 3 bikes. No squealing here. Angle the leading edge of pads in a slight amount. This will help cut down on/eliminate the squeal. Good luck with the build and let us see it when you are done.
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Old 01-23-07, 08:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timcupery
How might the different hanger cause or stop squealing? The possible differences are
  • fork-mounted hanger is closer to the brakes, and has less exposed cable to stretch (however, cable can stretch inside or outside of cable housing, so this is irrelevant)
  • one hanger model may flex more than the other - but in this case I think that the fork-mounted cable stop looks less rigid and as such might have more problems
However, I don't see meaningful differences in brake squeal as coming from your choice of cable stops. It has a lot more to do with the brakes and their adjustment.
I've thought a lot (probably too much) about this. I think it has more to do with chattering than squealing, which I believe is the context in which I read that changing to a fork crown mounted stop solved someone's problems. The only explanation I can think of is that hard stops cause the steering tube to flex, and having the stop mounted on the flexing tube sets up some sort of a feedback loop resulting in chattering.

At least that's my theory, and I'm sticking to it

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Old 01-23-07, 08:44 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
For adjusters use one of the Jagwire in-line adjusters. I have them on all the cables. You can make adjustments on the fly.
I thought about this, and ultimately decided to spend a bit more than the in-line adjusters and install cross (interrupter) levers. The cross levers have adjusters on them. I was thinking about installing them anyway for convenience/safety in case I find myself riding on the flats (this is my first drop bar bike in recent history). The fact that they also can serve as adjusters put me over the top on that decision.
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Old 01-23-07, 08:50 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Squealing brakes are more of a problem with the brake arms than with the cable hanger. Avid cantis squeal like stuck pigs no matter what you do...or they will eventually.
I've read that about the Avids too. I've also read that the Tektro Oryx are a bit looser on the shaft than some of the other options such as the Shimano R550s. But the Tektros are about half the price and most people seem to have pretty good luck with them.
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Old 01-23-07, 11:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Jagwire in-line adjusters will fix this without problem.
Dear cyccommute, very thanx.
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Old 01-24-07, 12:22 AM   #21
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I've used option 2 before. Never had any issues with it coming loose or shifting.
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Old 01-24-07, 09:28 AM   #22
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Dear cyccommute, very thanx.
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Glad to help.
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