Ergomo Bottom Bracket Removal / Installation
#1
NorCal Climbing Freak
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Ergomo Bottom Bracket Removal / Installation
Hey,
I appreciate any advice. I just picked up an Ergomo Pro, and need to install it. I'm wondering if someone could give me a rundown of the tools I will need to properly install it? I have a Campy BB, English threads.
This is what the installation manual says I will need:
I really don't have any experience removing and installing a BB, but would rather learn how to do it instead of taking it to a shop. Also, any tips I should keep in mind?
Finally, if any of you think there is the chance of damaging the bike and/or parts, or that the job is a bit too much for an inexperienced bike mechanic, feel free to tell me to just take it to someone with experience.
I appreciate any advice. I just picked up an Ergomo Pro, and need to install it. I'm wondering if someone could give me a rundown of the tools I will need to properly install it? I have a Campy BB, English threads.
This is what the installation manual says I will need:
-Tap set to re-thread the bottom bracket shell threads
- Facer set to re-face the bottom bracket shell edge
- The special ergomo pro sensor tool to attach the ergomo pro sensor
- Torque tool in range of 50 Nm – 70 Nm
- Facer set to re-face the bottom bracket shell edge
- The special ergomo pro sensor tool to attach the ergomo pro sensor
- Torque tool in range of 50 Nm – 70 Nm
Finally, if any of you think there is the chance of damaging the bike and/or parts, or that the job is a bit too much for an inexperienced bike mechanic, feel free to tell me to just take it to someone with experience.
#3
The Red Lantern
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First you will need a crank extractor to remove the cranks, This is a tool worth owning
Then you will need the tool to remove the Campy BB, there are several. Worth having if you ever plan to use it more than once.
Once you get your old BB out, you can assess whether or not you need to have the shell faced and threads chased. You will probably want to have a shop look at it as they will do the facing and chasing(unless you want to buy the several hundred dollars worth of tools to do it yourself)
Hopefully the Ergomo kit came with the BB installation tool, if not you will have to find a dealer that handles the product.
Finally you will need a torque wrench to install the new BB, this is a tool worth owning.
Tips:
Put everything you remove in a box, then if you have troubles you know where all the parts are
If a part does not thread easily, it is going in crooked or there is another problem, do not force it, figure out what it wrong
English thread loosens clockwise on the drive side and counterclockwise on the non drive side
Then you will need the tool to remove the Campy BB, there are several. Worth having if you ever plan to use it more than once.
Once you get your old BB out, you can assess whether or not you need to have the shell faced and threads chased. You will probably want to have a shop look at it as they will do the facing and chasing(unless you want to buy the several hundred dollars worth of tools to do it yourself)
Hopefully the Ergomo kit came with the BB installation tool, if not you will have to find a dealer that handles the product.
Finally you will need a torque wrench to install the new BB, this is a tool worth owning.
Tips:
Put everything you remove in a box, then if you have troubles you know where all the parts are
If a part does not thread easily, it is going in crooked or there is another problem, do not force it, figure out what it wrong
English thread loosens clockwise on the drive side and counterclockwise on the non drive side
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#4
NorCal Climbing Freak
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What's involved in having the shell faced and threads closed? Does it have to do with wear and tear? Just for reference, the bike is about 1 year old w/ ~8,000 miles. After the first 2000, or so, the BB was reinstalled because of a creaking issue. Nothing since then.
How would I determine whether the shell needs to be faced and the threads closed? If it's something that seems likely to be necessary, I might just take it to a shop initially.
Also, should the torque wrench be bicycle specific (e.g. made by Park Tool), or is any old set from ACE Hardware suitable?
Thanks for the help.
How would I determine whether the shell needs to be faced and the threads closed? If it's something that seems likely to be necessary, I might just take it to a shop initially.
Also, should the torque wrench be bicycle specific (e.g. made by Park Tool), or is any old set from ACE Hardware suitable?
Thanks for the help.
Last edited by grebletie; 01-29-07 at 10:59 PM.
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Facing is using a cutting tool to square the face of the BB shell to the threads and each other. Chasing the threads is running a tap thru them to make sure they are clear of any chips or paint. Neither is a wear and tear issue and used to be a required task but as the quality of frames has come up, the finish of the shell and threads has been much better.
If the BB comes out easy the threads are OK. If it looks like the paint has been removed from the face of the BB shell then it has probably been faced.
Any torque wrench will work, as long as it meets the range you need.
If the BB comes out easy the threads are OK. If it looks like the paint has been removed from the face of the BB shell then it has probably been faced.
Any torque wrench will work, as long as it meets the range you need.
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#6
NorCal Climbing Freak
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Alright. Just came across this in the installation manual. It appeared next a giant "Warning" sign.
From what I understand, it does come with a BB tool to help with installation. I'll look into getting the other parts. I should find some people who have installed an ergomo previously, and see just how important the warning I printed above is.
Rethreading of the bottom bracket shell and re-facing the bottom bracket shell
surface has to be done before installation. Rethreading avoids bending stress when
mounting the ergomo pro sensor. Rethreading ensures that the threads are optimally
aligned so avoiding bending stress. This procedure leads to accurate wattage numbers.
Non-compliance with this instruction invalidates the warranty.
The width of the bb part of the bicycle frame needs to be 68.0 mm ± 0.2 mm.
surface has to be done before installation. Rethreading avoids bending stress when
mounting the ergomo pro sensor. Rethreading ensures that the threads are optimally
aligned so avoiding bending stress. This procedure leads to accurate wattage numbers.
Non-compliance with this instruction invalidates the warranty.
The width of the bb part of the bicycle frame needs to be 68.0 mm ± 0.2 mm.
#7
Making a kilometer blurry
Looks like an easy way for them to get out of 100% of their warranties, unless they're talking about chasing the threads as the Rev said. Rethreading? Come. On.
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Originally Posted by waterrockets
Looks like an easy way for them to get out of 100% of their warranties, unless they're talking about chasing the threads as the Rev said. Rethreading? Come. On.
The biggest concern I would have with someone's first ergomo installation is the postition of the wire coming out of the bb shell.
Ergomo also has a website www.bicyclepowermeters.com where they have installation procedures
https://www.bicyclepowermeters.com/Er...gomo%20pro.pdf
#9
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Since all I have heard thus far is how easy the installation is, I think I'll give it a shot without rethreading the bottom bracket. It doesn't seem like there is too much concern about the warning to rethread and reface the bottom bracket, though I will still look around to see what experience other people have with this.
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If you already spent $1200 on the ergomo, might as well just go get your BB chased and tapped.
When I removed my BB to install my Campy UT cranks, I went ahead and faced the shell since it really needed it. The factory neglected to do it.
When I removed my BB to install my Campy UT cranks, I went ahead and faced the shell since it really needed it. The factory neglected to do it.