So, how frequently do 10 speed chains fail at the point of reconnection?
After reading sheldon's method for determining proper chainlength, I realized I may have unnecessarily added links to my chain, just to keep it the same length as the chain that came stock on the bike. When in the small/small combo, the chain isn't sagging, but if there is reason to suspect the chain will fail at the point where the replacement pin was inserted, I may as well remove those three extra links at the replacement pin and reconnect the chain with the Wipperman Connex master link I was using anyway. I'd still be two extra links, instead of just the one Sheldon recommends. Right now, there are about five extra.
My deciding factor for removing those extra links is whether I'm really riding around on a weaker chain with those extra links, since they were reconnected with a replacement pin. Unfortunately, at the time of installation, I was not savy enough to perform the maneuver at the master pin, eliminating that potential weak point, too.
I should mention, I've examined the replacement pin several times now, and it seems like I installed it correctly. It sticks out ever so slightly on the one side where the guide was broken off, but that is where the pin wants to sit comfortably. What would be a tell tale sign of improper installation?
Last edited by Cyclologist; 02-03-07 at 09:30 PM.
"if there is reason to suspect the chain will fail at the point where the replacement pin was inserted,"
Why would you suspect that?
"Right now, there are about five extra."
This doesn't seem likely. If I had five inches of extra chain on any of my bikes I would have lots of chain sag. With the chain on the smallest chainring and smallest cassette cog does the chain rub against itself as it travels through the rear derailleur cage? Is the derailleur all the way back against the rear travel limit? If not then you are fine.
The only 10-speed chain I've seen fail was one with a master link instead of the normal connecting pin.