700c on a 26"
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700c on a 26"
I would like to put some 700c wheels on my 26" mountain bike for road use and was wondering how much I would have to raise the brakes.
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Most brakes will not work in that situation. There are a couple of brake sets and adapters that might work.
Why not just put 26" slicks on?
-see the commuter forum, this is a frequent topic of discussion
Why not just put 26" slicks on?
-see the commuter forum, this is a frequent topic of discussion
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
Last edited by dobber; 02-18-07 at 08:12 PM.
#4
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They make 26" (559mm) tires down to about 26X1.00 (or 559-25mm)
Do you have enough clearance forr a 700C wheel?
Do you have enough clearance forr a 700C wheel?
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Unless you're after specific road wheels with low spoke count and/or bladed spokes and/or deep rims, narrow slicks on a regular 559 wheel will be a very good subsitute. The shorter spokes and smaller wheel will make up for some of the "worse" aerodynamics of the higher spoke count and wider rims.
Top gearing will suffer as well, by about 8-10%.
If you still want larger wheels, disc brakes are independent of wheel size, but it probably involves building your own wheels to get hubs for disc brakes...
Top gearing will suffer as well, by about 8-10%.
If you still want larger wheels, disc brakes are independent of wheel size, but it probably involves building your own wheels to get hubs for disc brakes...
#6
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Originally Posted by CdCf
......Top gearing will suffer as well, by about 8-10%...
Example:
If you have a (nominal) 26X2.0" tire, your OD should be 26"
Go to a 26X1.5" tire, your OD should be 25". That's a 4% difference.
Take a 12 tooth cog-for example- 1 tooth difference is about 8%, so the smaller tire (in this case) would be like going to a 12.5 tooth cog (if that were possible).
In reality, it's even more in the sense you have the lighter and more aerodynamic tire.
Even if you were using identical gear inches, you accelerate faster/easier because you don't have as much tire weight to get rotating. Nice for getting across intersections.
On the front, gearing isn't even an issue obviously.
#7
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Originally Posted by operator
My friend put a 700c on his mtb frame. Had to get road calipers.
Tim
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Originally Posted by cs1
When you say "calipers" do you mean disc or regular dual pivot? Most MTB frames are set up for canti/V-brakes. There is no such thing as "Road Cantis."
Tim
Tim
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Originally Posted by CdCf
I think "road calipers" was written that way simply to clarify that it was a road bike component. Since the OP has MTB wheels, he or she may not be familiar with calipers at all, so stating clearly that they're road components could be helpful.
You can't get there from here.
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
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Originally Posted by dobber
But how would one mount a road bike component, in this case a caliper brake, on a MTB type frame?
You can't get there from here.
You can't get there from here.
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re-braze the canti-studs up higher to fit the bigger wheel?
I just dropped 2 frames off to my dad to have him do this for me.
I just dropped 2 frames off to my dad to have him do this for me.
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Originally Posted by dobber
But how would one mount a road bike component, in this case a caliper brake, on a MTB type frame?
You can't get there from here.
You can't get there from here.
This obviously is not the case for all mountain bikes (especially weirdo and more expensive speciality mtbs).
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some mtb frames i've seen have holes drilled in the bridge on the seatstays (i'm blanking on the real word for it) and the fork. you could def mount brakes there for 700c wheels.
if you're running gears, chainline won't be an extreme issue, but i've also been told recently that even track hubs with respaced axles will work, so perhaps chainline isn't an issue even if you aren't running multiple gears. if you are running multiple gears, obviously cross-chaining will be more an issue.
but as far as clearance, you should be good. as far as brakes, maybe. the only time i ever considered using 700c wheels on a mtb frame, it had holes you could use for brakes for 700c or even 27" wheels.
if you're running gears, chainline won't be an extreme issue, but i've also been told recently that even track hubs with respaced axles will work, so perhaps chainline isn't an issue even if you aren't running multiple gears. if you are running multiple gears, obviously cross-chaining will be more an issue.
but as far as clearance, you should be good. as far as brakes, maybe. the only time i ever considered using 700c wheels on a mtb frame, it had holes you could use for brakes for 700c or even 27" wheels.