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Acceptable wobble tolerance for newly trued wheel

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Acceptable wobble tolerance for newly trued wheel

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Old 03-21-07, 06:45 AM
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Acceptable wobble tolerance for newly trued wheel

I had a problem with a nipple coming unscrewed from a spoke and falling into the v shaped cavity in the front wheel of my road bike.
I took it to the LBS where I bought it and had it fixed and the wheel retrued. I rode the bike once for 17 miles and the wheel had again come out of true.
I took it back to the LBS and they retrued it again and there is still a slight bit of wobble (a probably about 3/32nds of and inch).
Is this an acceptable amount of wobble?
Would I be too anal if I took it back and wanted it perfect?
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Old 03-21-07, 07:36 AM
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I think it would be acceptable to take it back and have it redone.

However, when I'm doing my own wheels I generally just try to make them good enough that

- if the wheel has a "hop" in it, it's not big enough to feel when riding.
- there is about .5 cm +/- between each brake pad and the rim.

I guess I wrench it until it works and then just call it a day.
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Old 03-21-07, 07:46 AM
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The shop manager for my store wants us to true wheels to less than 0.5 mm of wobble in any direction. Having ridden wheels that were trued to that standard and wheels that were trued to a more generous standard I gotta say that I like the <0.5mm standard. And it's not hard to achieve if you spend a little time on a wheel.

So I'd take it back.
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Old 03-21-07, 08:54 AM
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Agreed. If they give you grief about it, feel free to tell them that they substandard. You would be right.
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Old 03-21-07, 10:46 AM
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I dunno, becoming untrue after only 17 miles (on a road bike no less), and them returning it to you with some noticable wobble doesn't lead me to believe that that particular shop is going to get it right if you bring it in yet again... 17 miles, sounds like the wheel wasn't even tensioned properly or unevenly or something. I would cut your loses and either a) take it to another shop with a decent mechanic, or b) buy yourself a truing stand and learn yourself. It just takes common sense and the ability to avoid being hasty (like your shop, as it sounds). You can make it as perfect as you want, and honestly it really is a relaxing thing to do in front of the TV.

-pete
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Old 03-21-07, 11:00 AM
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A wobble of 0.5mm is certainly acceptable in my book. That equates to .0197" or slightly less than 1/64". Many non-machined rims will have a wobble that approaches .5mm, especially at welded joints.

Now, for those < 0.5mm folks out there, try balancing your wheels by wrapping fine solder around a spoke for a wheel-balanced ride!

Jason
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Old 03-21-07, 11:47 AM
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Sounds like the shop didn't release the tension on the crosses. Common new guy mistake. Take it back.


Personally, I kinda like a slight side to side wobble. Give the brakes that "anti-lock" feel
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Old 03-21-07, 11:56 AM
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sounds like theres other issues going on. Why/how did the nipple come uscrewed?
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Old 03-21-07, 03:08 PM
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Thanks to all for your replies.
I dont know how the nipple came unscrewed, I noticed it after a ride and the mechanic at the shop said he never saw that happen before.
The bike only has about 175 miles on it. Should I tell them to swap out the wheel under warranty?
The wheels are cheap Jalco GX-460's that came stock on the bike.
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Old 03-21-07, 03:14 PM
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When I started building and truing my own wheels, I asked a shop mechanic about acceptable wobble. He said one millimeter. I try to get it closer than that. It isn't terribly difficult, unless you are really pressed for time (as they often are in bike shops).
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Old 03-21-07, 03:15 PM
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If the bike is under warranty, make the shop get it right.
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Old 03-21-07, 03:24 PM
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It depends on how old the bike is and what has happened to the rim. If the rim is warped at all or has had any considerable bumps (curbs, potholes, etc.) it might not be able to get closer than that.
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