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  1. #1
    Wrench Savant balindamood's Avatar
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    Proper spoke tension

    Too much information is a bad thing.

    Got one of those Park spoke tension-meter things for Christmas. I've build wheels for years without one, but am now wonder what is the 'proper' tension. I have always managed to get them relatively even, but now I have this guage that tells me what it really is. I know it depends on rims and spoke size. I have not had much luck finding an answer in any of the usual places (Zinn's, etc.).

    Thanks!
    "Where you come from is gone;
    where you are headed weren't never there;
    and where you are ain't no good unless you can get away from it."

  2. #2
    black betty DeadSailor's Avatar
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    different material spokes and different types have different tensions

    http://www.parktool.com/products/doc...05912_4301.pdf

    have fun(im sure you will(no sarcasm)), building with tension makes building wheels real intresting

  3. #3
    Lost in the Black Hills mx_599's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by balindamood
    Too much information is a bad thing.

    Got one of those Park spoke tension-meter things for Christmas. I've build wheels for years without one, but am now wonder what is the 'proper' tension. I have always managed to get them relatively even, but now I have this guage that tells me what it really is. I know it depends on rims and spoke size. I have not had much luck finding an answer in any of the usual places (Zinn's, etc.).

    Thanks!
    hello, i have the same tensiometer. great tool!

    from talking to different places on the phone (DTswiss, SunRims), it seems that the rim is the primary determinant of tension. correct me if i am wrong. they made it sound like the rim is the limiting factor and so one should find out from the rim manufacturer what the recommended spoke tension should be.

    many of the wheels i have built had rims spec'ed between 80 to 110 kgf.

    after you know what the rim can "handle" kgf wise, then you can reference the type of spoke you have on the tensiometer deflection/conversion number chart for your park tool.

    this is my basic take on it anyway. hope that helps.

  4. #4
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    I would not exceed 120. Anymore and you will start to pull the nipple through the rim. The Rim is the weakest part so that will limit your spoke tension.

    Zipp recommends no more than 100 kgf on their carbon rims.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Deanster04's Avatar
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    Check Sheldon Brown's site. Also, Gerd Schraner has a philosophy of high spoke tension...but again consult the rim manufacturer.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Nessism's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeadSailor
    different material spokes and different types have different tensions

    http://www.parktool.com/products/doc...05912_4301.pdf

    have fun(im sure you will(no sarcasm)), building with tension makes building wheels real intresting

    So what about for butted spokes? For example, 2.0/1.8/2.0. I assume it's best to use the Park conversion table for a 1.8 spoke?
    Becareful buying/selling bike parts on-line. I learned the hard way. :(

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  7. #7
    Lost in the Black Hills mx_599's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    So what about for butted spokes? For example, 2.0/1.8/2.0. I assume it's best to use the Park conversion table for a 1.8 spoke?
    yes, use conversion chart.

    the rim is still the "weak link".

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mx_599
    hello, i have the same tensiometer. great tool!

    from talking to different places on the phone (DTswiss, SunRims), it seems that the rim is the primary determinant of tension. correct me if i am wrong. they made it sound like the rim is the limiting factor and so one should find out from the rim manufacturer what the recommended spoke tension should be.

    many of the wheels i have built had rims spec'ed between 80 to 110 kgf.

    after you know what the rim can "handle" kgf wise, then you can reference the type of spoke you have on the tensiometer deflection/conversion number chart for your park tool.

    this is my basic take on it anyway. hope that helps.
    +1. Bingo!

    Bob

  9. #9
    Senior Member Nessism's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mx_599
    yes, use conversion chart.

    the rim is still the "weak link".
    Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?
    Becareful buying/selling bike parts on-line. I learned the hard way. :(

    Good/Bad Trader Listing

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?
    Depends on the spoke. DT Competition spokes are about 1.7, Revolutions are 1.5.
    Based on Park's conversion chart I've been running 157 kgf with no problems on DT 1.1 and Open Pro rims. Not sure I believe the chart conversions for butted spokes.

    Al

  11. #11
    Lost in the Black Hills mx_599's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nessism
    Which column on the conversion chart? 1.8 or 2.0 for a butted spoke?
    1.8

    but doesn't it specify DB spokes? at any rate, you would want the narrow part because that is what the tool "grips" on

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