Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

1975 Viscount Rebuild

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

1975 Viscount Rebuild

Old 03-25-07, 08:07 PM
  #1  
dbs
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 121

Bikes: 1976 Viscount

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
1975 Viscount Rebuild

The Viscount I have been working on is back from the paint shop and is ready to re-assemble. I've attached a before and after (of essentially the bare frame) to let you see how things progress. Recall this is a frame I decided to salvage because it is essentially a strong chrome moly frame and I need a bike to commute. The components needed a refresh and I have found some sales on last year pieces so it is now time to put things back together.

First issue was the bottom bracket. After some discussion last fall, we decided I had a standard English BB meaning many upgrades would fit. I found a Ultegra triple and an Ultegra BB cheap so why not.... Before the BB would slide through however, I needed to take a die grinder and clean up the inside of the BB tub. When the frame was built the ends of the down tube, etc were allowed to run slightly into the BB tube. For the original BB this didn't cause a problem but the Ultegra require more side clearance so I had to do a little grinding. It took about 10 minutes or so with an air die grinder. Piece of cake.

So with the BB and the head assembly in place, I set out to install the crank arms. This seems rather obvious, line up the slots in the arms to the teeth on the shaft, lub the threads on the retaining cap screws and torque in place. The arms, obviously, are install 180 degrees apart. I am wondering about what appears to be a lock nut. See attached picture. I have set the lock nut and washer on the crank. It appears the flat washer would go in first followed by the lock nut. The nut has an open center and two detents I assume to be used to tighted the nut using a punch or drift. It is aluminum on aluminum so I'm wondering about lubricant as well. Can anyone provide some insight? Thanks.

I may need to come back as I continue through this re-build. I'm going to go slow and ask questions because I don't want to screw it up and have to re-do anything. As always, thanks for your patience and your support.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
old frame.jpg (32.3 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg
BB-small.jpg (31.6 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg
New frame.jpg (20.6 KB, 32 views)
dbs is offline  
Old 03-25-07, 08:46 PM
  #2  
*
 
vpiuva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,458
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Not sure about the Octalink installation question but I do have one warning for you. I did the same die grinding on one of mine and thought I had cleaned the BB shell out completely. Forgot about the grinding dust that went up the seat tube. I had test installed the new BB, everything fit, and when I removed it, the BB was coated with metal dust. Had to clean the BB up and reclean the frame. If you didn't check and clean the ST, you might want to remove and recheck.
vpiuva is offline  
Old 03-26-07, 04:24 PM
  #3  
dbs
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 121

Bikes: 1976 Viscount

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
After doing some more research and talking with Shimano and my LBS, I get a mixed message. Shimano said to lube it and tighten it in with a pin spanner. That it was a lock nut. My LBS said it is a crank extractor and to forget about it. Or they said you could use it as a locking device but wouldn't recommend using it as an extractor because it is made of aluminum.

Does anyone have a Octalink who can tell me if they have a locking ring screwed down on top of the retaining cap screw that holds the crank arm on.

Thanks.
dbs is offline  
Old 03-26-07, 04:33 PM
  #4  
(Grouchy)
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,643
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
it is a self-extractor. you can use them if you want, there aren't really any issues with them as long as you grease the threads. they do sometimes break, or pull out, but that's a pretty rare thing to have happen. take 'em or leave 'em, it really makes very little difference in the end. the cranks are secure on the spindle without it.

i've never heard it referred to as a lock nut, and it wouldn't make a whole lot of sense, as it doesn't come into contact with the spindle bolt, until you back it out to pull the cranks.
OneTinSloth is offline  
Old 03-28-07, 10:09 AM
  #5  
dbs
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 121

Bikes: 1976 Viscount

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great point. It would be tough to be an extractor and a locking device as well. I'll leave them out. Thanks.
dbs is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.