Yeah, pushing on the rim sideways between the brake-pads will let you feel how much play there is. Quite obvious when you have the QR barely on vs. when it's fully tightened down.
I vote for option-A
. Regardless of the "quality" of a hub, the axle is what gets compressed by the skewer and the cones on each end will end up moving closer together. Compressibility and Young's modulus of all steel alloys are pretty much identical. What you will notice is that some hubs have tigher-fitting cones to the axle and will spin on easier with less wiggle. However, once the locknut is tightened down, the entire axle assembly is solid.
The actual amount of play to leave is then trial & error. You get a good feel for it over time. I've found that it's usually about 20-30 degrees of a turn looser from the adjustment where there's no play.
Sheldon Brown also has a great article on cone-adjustment
. He made a special QR that will compress the axle without dropouts or washers needed. Allows for precise cone-adjustment without too much trial & error.
Originally Posted by aroundoz
I have been told:
Try this out yourself. As AndrewP said, you can use a couple of washers to simulate the thickness of the dropout (about 6mm for front) and then you can clamp the QR on the axle off the bike to make adjustments :
With no QR clamped, there's radial and axial free-play :
WIth the QR installed but not clamped, there's still play:
With the QR clamped halfway, you can feel that the play is still there, but reduced significantly:
Finally, with the QR fully clamped down, there's no play in any direction, yet the axle still spins smoothly:
Last edited by DannoXYZ; 03-29-07 at 12:57 PM.