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  1. #1
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Add an in-line adjuster on the FD or not.

    For the past 8 months I have for the first time in several years not used any in-line barrel adjusters on my front (or rear) derailer shift cables.

    I was skeptical at first, but I never missed them. My SRAM Force setup seemed to need little adjustment over the past 8 months and 5,000 miles since new.

    I am now about to replace the shift cables and again am wondering should I add an in-line adjuster to the front cable or not.

    I didn't need one in the past but . . . .


    Thoughts, experiences, wisdom ?

  2. #2
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    You've been lucky if you have installed brifters and not needed to trim the cable tension at least a couple of times.

    Doesn't your rear derailleur have an adjusting barrel built-in to it? I've never seen an "indexing" rd that didn't.

    I would suggest an in-line adjuster for the fd if the cable housing anchors on the frame don't already provide that function. Again, all of the modern frames I've seen have adjustable anchors that bolt over the downtube shifter bosses or are welded to the headtube for those new enough to be limited to STI/Ergo/SRAM brifter or barcon use.

  3. #3
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    You've been lucky if you have installed brifters and not needed to trim the cable tension at least a couple of times.

    Doesn't your rear derailleur have an adjusting barrel built-in to it? I've never seen an "indexing" rd that didn't.

    I would suggest an in-line adjuster for the fd if the cable housing anchors on the frame don't already provide that function. Again, all of the modern frames I've seen have adjustable anchors that bolt over the downtube shifter bosses or are welded to the headtube for those new enough to be limited to STI/Ergo/SRAM brifter or barcon use.

    Yes, the rear derailer obviously has an adjusting barrel on it....

    My frame does not have threaded frame anchors to fit an adjuster, therefore, why I am thinking of splicing the front housing and adding one it around the head tube for the front derailer.

    I have had to fine tune the RD tension once. However, the FD tension has been spot on since I installed the components and set the FD tension via the shift cable then tightened the FD locknut.

  4. #4
    Senior Member thomson's Avatar
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    Are you also replacing the housings? In my experience, it is the housings compressing that has caused the shifting to get looser rather than cables stretching.

    I have never used an inline for the front. I am not sure how SRAM works but the Campy isn't an indexed front. When I install the cable, I get it real snug and any housing compression is not an issue. Maybe it doesn't snap to the larger ring as quickly but it is so minor, I don't notice it.

  5. #5
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    I wouldn't even bother with front in-line adjusters. Once cable tension is properly set on the FD anchor bolt, it almost never needs adjusting.

  6. #6
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadfix
    I wouldn't even bother with front in-line adjusters. Once cable tension is properly set on the FD anchor bolt, it almost never needs adjusting.

    Famous last words


    I think I will throw one on... If I never use it, next change I will delete it.

  7. #7
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awiner
    Famous last words


    I think I will throw one on... If I never use it, next change I will delete it.
    Throw one on, just for the sake of symmetry.

  8. #8
    1 Serving Per Container awiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadfix
    Throw one on, just for the sake of symmetry.

    You know, my teeth make a great fourth hand tool !

  9. #9
    Scott n4zou's Avatar
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    All you do to adjust the FD without a barrel adjuster where you cant seam to get the shifter to align just right is to back off the FD "L" limit screw, try a 1/2 turn of the limit screw. Loosen the cable anchor bolt and pull the cable tight. Turn the limit screw back 1/2 turn so its back in original position. If it's still not quite right try 1 turn of the FD "L" limit screw or what ever it takes to get the shifting just right. Once you get it right after the cable has stretched adjustment will not needed until a new cable is installed.

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