Raising Handlebars
I'd like to raise my handlebars on my Trek 1000 (2002). It has a threadless stem. So it appears that I need spacers to place between the clamp and the headset. Is there a way to tell what size these spacers are? Is it a one size fits all type system? I don't know the size of the stem or steering tube either. Is there a way to look at the bike and find out?
|
it's not really as easy as putting spacers in. if your steerer wasn't cut long enough it can be quite dangerous to just add a bunch of spacers under the stem. there wont be enough steerer left for the stem to clamp on to.
the only thing i can think of offhand is to buy a new stem that has an adjustable angle to it and adjust it to point further up. |
Spire, usually the top of the steerer is cut to the exact length, so you'll have nowhere to go if you raise the stem. If for some reason yours isn't, then usually there will be spacers between the top of the stem clamp and the cap, and you can just move them under the stem. But that would be unusual. Most likely, your steerer is cut and you have no space above the stem clamp to reaise it.
Here are the options: 1) Flip your stem, if it's not already. If yours is not a stem that extends at a 90-degree angle from the steerer, then turning it over will give you more rise. Typically, many road bikes come with stems that are parallel to the ground in the "down" position, and give quite a bit of rise in the "up" position. 2) Buy a new stem with even more rise. (Or an adjustable stem, as previously suggested, but that will cost more and be heavier.) 3) Buy a riser (a tube that clamps to the top of the existing steerer and adds a couple of inches to its length). These are $20 or so, and I wouldn't have one on my bike if you paid me. But maybe that's just me. 4) Replace the fork, and this time have the steerer cut longer. 5) Replace the bike, and get a better fitting done on the new one. As to your question about diameter, it's either 1" or 1-1/8". Current 1000's are the latter. You can measure it with a caliper. RichC |
Thanks guys, I had just assumed that there would be some extra space in the streering tube to move it upwards once I had everything open. Your flipping idea looks like it will work.
Will the steering tubes typically move vertically if, say, I want to lower it a bit once I get it flipped upside down? |
I put a Delta stem riser on my bike and I don't give a @#%$&*^what anyone thinks bout it! The advantages are, you set the preload on the head set from inside the riser and clamp this to the stem just like before, then your stem clamps to the riser.
The stem, with bars attached, can be moved up and down at will almost as easily as with a quill type stem. I moved my bars up and it hasn't slowed me down one bit, matter of fact I'm making better time because I'm more comfortable! If I ever have a bike built I will have the stem cut long and use extra spacers, or cut short and use a riser off the bat! Just be aware that as the bars come up they also come back, and shorten your reach some also. |
Originally posted by Spire Thanks guys, I had just assumed that there would be some extra space in the streering tube to move it upwards once I had everything open. Your flipping idea looks like it will work. Will the steering tubes typically move vertically if, say, I want to lower it a bit once I get it flipped upside down? Scoob |
Originally posted by uciflylow Just be aware that as the bars come up they also come back, and shorten your reach some also. |
I have just finished implementing Rich Clark's idea. I'll get a chance to try it out in a couple days.
|
At the risk of stating the obvious I will just throw in to make sure you double check your threadless headset adjustment any time you loosen the stem.
|
That's the neet thing about the delta riser, you don't loose your head set adjustment to raise the bars!:D
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:13 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.