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  1. #1
    RAGBRAI. Need I say more? Steele-Bike's Avatar
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    Gripshift cable routing

    I am in the process of replacing the cable on my 5 year old Gripshift. The problem I am having is getting the cable through the L-bend just beyond the shifter. I can run the cable reverse thru the hole just fine, but not through the correct way. Is there an easy way to run it or am I SOL?

    (P.S. The Bicycling Mag repair guide says that if one owns an older model Gripshift they would be much better off having the LBS do the maintenance work. Should I listen to this advice?)

  2. #2
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    There is typically a cover that either pops off or is removed after taking a screw out. Let me see if I can find a diagram here... a model number off the shifter would be useful, if you're still up.

    *rummages on Internet for schematics*

  3. #3
    Senior Member mechBgon's Avatar
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    Well, without knowing which model you have, I'm not sure what setup you're up against. Here are some schematics: http://www.sram24.com/techdoc/englis...shifterse.html

    The other tip I can offer is to remove the adjuster barrel while you're routing the cable out, and put it back on after getting the cable out in the open. Hope that's some help

  4. #4
    Senior Member chip's Avatar
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    What I did was practise on a few of my own for experience?
    You can see were your cable stopper is right?Run the cable threw that and basically wrap it around in the grooves...the cable loops around the handle bar...when you take it apart you should take note so you know how to put back together.
    You must shift to the highest gear before you take the rear shifter apart.
    The front one you must shift to the lowest gear[smallest chain ring]
    In any case I sure do not like em.There to complicated too much work no one I've talked to that has owned them care much for them either?
    The old standby friction shifters just keep running along and are inexpensive and easy to replace:confused:

  5. #5
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    You can tweek the end of the cable just a bit to get it to follow into the route. Also use a 1.1 mm cable if you can get one, they float a bit looser in the housings, less friction.
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    I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.

  6. #6
    RAGBRAI. Need I say more? Steele-Bike's Avatar
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    I finally replaced the cable. Since it was the first time I had taken apart my Gripshift I wasn't familiar with how it exactly worked, but I sure do now. Nothing like that feeling when you spend an eternity working on something and finally that little bulb in your skull lights up and everything clicks into place.

    It took me a little while to figure out how the cable fed through the shifter and slipping the clip off the L-bend helped with the threading of the cable. Now, if I can just remember what I did for next time.

    Thanks for the advice.

  7. #7
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    Just take it apart and put it back together about ten times and you will remember.
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  8. #8
    extra-t Resident's Avatar
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    Ha ha! We have a $5.00 surcharge for Gripshift cable installation.

    (Rarely used).
    Taking photos of your lovely planet...

  9. #9
    Senior Member chip's Avatar
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    I noticed that the twist shifting seems to click a lot when you shift into each gear
    I've never heard a quit twist shifter yet...wondered how this would work for hunting every time you shift your scaring the game away?

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