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Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

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Old 04-30-07, 09:11 AM   #1
jjciiijs
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You are going to love this - PROBLEM !

I got a bike with a smattering of Shamano stuff on it. I got it to put Campy stuff on it. I go to pull off the cranks and find the arms seem to have been pounded on the spindle over he spindle bolts . One side still had good arm threads, so i put a puller on and pounded it with a hammer until the arm was backed off the spindle and I could then spin the arm off with the bolt still wedged inside of it . However, the ring arm has bad threads and I can't get the puller threaded in .

What to do?

try cutting the spindle with sawsall?
start moto grinding the arm apart and split it off the spindle?

Tried a gear puller for autos and it would not grip the arm, kept slipping off . Can't find a wrench thin enough to slip behind the arm to unscrew the spindle cap after cutting off all the spider arms.
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Old 04-30-07, 09:17 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjciiijs
try cutting the spindle with sawsall? start moto grinding the arm apart and split it off the spindle?(
Well, this is the strangest crank remover problem thread I've seen so far.

I'd use a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to split the crank arm spider in a couple of places enough to crack the remains off the spindle. The spindle is very hard and even a Sawsall is going to have a problem as well as working in a very confined space.
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Old 04-30-07, 10:19 AM   #3
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Idea: Cut off whatever you can and crack the rest off with a mallet. It *will* give eventually.

Another idea: If you have a strong enough drill bit, some lubrication and time with a decent drill will also go through the crankarm. It's up to you to pick the best spots where you think a hole will help it crack off. Suggested spots are the corners of the square hole. And please, be careful! Chainrings are annoyingly pointy when you're down there working with tools.

Last-resort idea: Stripped crankarm threads are probably the most annoying bike problem I've ever encountered. That said, others feel the same way, and well-equipped LBS'es will have tools to chase and possibly retap threads. They might also take pity and whack the arm off for you with heavy things, saving you some time and strength.

Check Barnett's for tried-and-true "just get it the hell off" tips, too:

http://www.bbinstitute.com/BM5%20chap%2020.pdf
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Old 04-30-07, 01:34 PM   #4
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So you have one crank arm off, the other stuck on?

Before you reach for the that Dremel and very large hammer -can I ask if you want that crankarm? If not, go ahead with the Dremel. Otherwise:

Soak the area with penetrating oil (you know, I always read this kind of advice with other people, and you know what? It's never actually worked for me!)

I know of only two other methods (that don't include cutting or hacking) to remove a crankarm with the puller threads stripped:

1. similar to a wood splitter wedge, but more shaped like a fork, you can force it in between the bb and crankarm (very effective, but you have to be careful with the bb frame area)

2. use clutch grabber (needs to be 4 pronged or more).
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Old 05-03-07, 06:25 PM   #5
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If you are going to be hammering on the BB or Crank you really should be putting some sort of support under the crank or BB to take the load. If not you actually can damage the BB and BB shell. Just a word of warning. Good luck.
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Old 05-03-07, 07:33 PM   #6
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I vote for the sawzall!!, Toss in a 5lb sledge and cold chisel for good measure
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Old 05-03-07, 07:55 PM   #7
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I vote for the Dremel with the cutting wheel!

Here's a question. Can you remove the fixed cup with the crank still attached? Depending on the cup design, that might possible.

Last edited by rjacob; 05-03-07 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 05-04-07, 06:46 AM   #8
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Use a "Goats Foot", it is what the auto industry uses for removal of ball joints on steering rods.
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Old 05-04-07, 07:00 AM   #9
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Smoke wrench!
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Old 05-04-07, 07:20 AM   #10
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Smoke wrench!
+1
A damaged BB shell totals the frame. Having a welder use a cutting torch to cut the BB axel prevents damage from excessive pressure from hammering or excessive torque on the BB shell and frame.
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Old 05-04-07, 07:50 AM   #11
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Dynamite. Lots of it.

I don't get what you did with the arm you did manage to get off. Bolt stuck in it??? And what the f..k did you use a hammer for? Perhaps the crank has a self-extract bolt system (dunno what it's called, too lazy to look up)?
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Old 05-04-07, 09:41 AM   #12
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Perhaps the crank has a self-extract bolt system (dunno what it's called, too lazy to look up)?
It's exactly as you called it
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Old 05-07-07, 09:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
Dynamite. Lots of it.
I don't get what you did with the arm you did manage to get off. Bolt stuck in it??? And what the f..k did you use a hammer for?
The arm came off after cutting through it with a drimal / splitting it.
the hammer was for hitting the extractor tool, which was to tough to turn by hand
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Old 05-07-07, 10:26 AM   #14
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Leverage not hammers.....geez
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Old 05-07-07, 02:21 PM   #15
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I vote for the goats foot or ball joint fork. I used one this weekend and it worked. Left a small mark on the inside of the crank.
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Old 05-07-07, 02:34 PM   #16
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Leverage not hammers.....geez
Biggest hammer wins
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Old 05-07-07, 02:40 PM   #17
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If the only tool you have is a hammer, then everything looks like a nail!
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