Is it bad to have the top headset tube rising above the stem?
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Is it bad to have the top headset tube rising above the stem?
I bought a used kestrel frame and it has an carbon fork....the part where you clamp on a stem is carbon. I've read that you don't use a hacksaw to cut carbon and I kind of want to leave it alone. Is it considered cheap or amateur to have some space on the top above the stem? I won't be using a spacer so that means there's a gap above the stem making it not perfectly flush.
And another question. The frame came with a king headset. The fork is attached. But on the top I guess I'm missing the cap I see on all bikes. The round top thing (metal) with the screw in the middle... Is this an expensive part to replace and can I get it just by itself? So basically looking down on the tube there's empty space and nothing covering the top but I still have a fork attached to the frame.
And another question. The frame came with a king headset. The fork is attached. But on the top I guess I'm missing the cap I see on all bikes. The round top thing (metal) with the screw in the middle... Is this an expensive part to replace and can I get it just by itself? So basically looking down on the tube there's empty space and nothing covering the top but I still have a fork attached to the frame.
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steerer queries
Hi there Registered
The little cap on top of the steerer not only keeps rubbish and water and nose drippings out of the fork, it is also used to provide the slight preload necessary on the headset bearings before the stem is tightened on the tube. So without the cap you can't do anything with the stem without losing this preload. They are not expensive. They often come with replacement headset bearings. Get your LBS to cut the top of the tube off or alternatively you may want to check your bike fit and install a spacer ring or two under the stem to get the stem at the correct height relative to the seat. This will take up the extra. In other words don't be to quick to cut it off. You can't stick it back on again. Enjoy the bike.
The little cap on top of the steerer not only keeps rubbish and water and nose drippings out of the fork, it is also used to provide the slight preload necessary on the headset bearings before the stem is tightened on the tube. So without the cap you can't do anything with the stem without losing this preload. They are not expensive. They often come with replacement headset bearings. Get your LBS to cut the top of the tube off or alternatively you may want to check your bike fit and install a spacer ring or two under the stem to get the stem at the correct height relative to the seat. This will take up the extra. In other words don't be to quick to cut it off. You can't stick it back on again. Enjoy the bike.
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Originally Posted by registered usar
I bought a used kestrel frame and it has an carbon fork....the part where you clamp on a stem is carbon. I've read that you don't use a hacksaw to cut carbon and I kind of want to leave it alone. Is it considered cheap or amateur to have some space on the top above the stem? I won't be using a spacer so that means there's a gap above the stem making it not perfectly flush.
And another question. The frame came with a king headset. The fork is attached. But on the top I guess I'm missing the cap I see on all bikes. The round top thing (metal) with the screw in the middle... Is this an expensive part to replace and can I get it just by itself? So basically looking down on the tube there's empty space and nothing covering the top but I still have a fork attached to the frame.
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Don't listen to the above comment that you'll die on turn 1 if you cut your steerer tube flush with the top of the stem. Stupid. Keep a little bit of extra above your stem, in case later on you want to raise your stem. However, it's no less safe to cut of the excess and have the steerer tube flush with the stem.
#5
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I dunno about dying on turn 1, but otherwise I agree with Tapeworm21 and huffergoat. You need a little clearance between the top of the stem and the steerer tube. When you screw in the top cap, it needs to press on the stem and spacers in order to preload the headset bearings. If the steerer is too long, the cap will butt up against the steerer tube instead of pressing on the stem and spacers, and the headset bearings will likely be too loose (which could affect handling). This is the reason for putting spacers above the stem. It lifts the cap up above the steerer and preserves the cap's function of compressing the headset bearings. Depending on the shape of the top cap I suppose it may work if the steerer is flush with the stem, or it may not. Best to stick with the stem and/or headset manufacturers specs. Remember that the steerer tube itself may rise a few mm as you tighten the cap so take that into account (especially if you've just removed and reinstalled the fork and the headset bearings aren't firmly seated yet). If it's already flush while the fork is still loose and wobbly, definitely give it a spacer or two.
Remember to leave the stem loose as you adjust the top cap. Once you clamp it down it holds everything in place. It's impossible to adjust the headset bearings while the stem is clamped down.
By the way, if you want to preserve the bling factor, you can order a Chris King top cap, and even spacers, directly from their website (the spacers are pretty expensive though). Otherwise, generics of the correct size will work fine.
Remember to leave the stem loose as you adjust the top cap. Once you clamp it down it holds everything in place. It's impossible to adjust the headset bearings while the stem is clamped down.
By the way, if you want to preserve the bling factor, you can order a Chris King top cap, and even spacers, directly from their website (the spacers are pretty expensive though). Otherwise, generics of the correct size will work fine.
Last edited by Metaluna; 05-07-07 at 10:05 AM.
#7
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I think Tapeworm21 meant if the unprotected steerer end is sticking up you might get impaled on it.
Last edited by cooker; 05-07-07 at 07:17 PM.
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if the stem sits flush with the top of the steerer tube, the star nut or compression plug cannot do its job.
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Originally Posted by dafydd
if the stem sits flush with the top of the steerer tube, the star nut or compression plug cannot do its job.
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Originally Posted by bellweatherman
uh, yes it can.
OP = there is nothing wrong with the setup you have suggested. Allows you to see how you really want the stem to be positioned. If your unsure take it to your LBS for some ideas. I have a Titus carbon frame set up this way right now because I want to make sure the position is correct before the fork steerer is cut. FSA top cap and compression plug is a real nice one for carbon steerer tubes. Good luck.
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Originally Posted by oilman_15106
Depends on the bottom profile of the top cap. Some work this way some do not.
OP = there is nothing wrong with the setup you have suggested. Allows you to see how you really want the stem to be positioned. If your unsure take it to your LBS for some ideas. I have a Titus carbon frame set up this way right now because I want to make sure the position is correct before the fork steerer is cut. FSA top cap and compression plug is a real nice one for carbon steerer tubes. Good luck.
OP = there is nothing wrong with the setup you have suggested. Allows you to see how you really want the stem to be positioned. If your unsure take it to your LBS for some ideas. I have a Titus carbon frame set up this way right now because I want to make sure the position is correct before the fork steerer is cut. FSA top cap and compression plug is a real nice one for carbon steerer tubes. Good luck.