supertj

My feet touches the front wheel by a decent amount and its really annoying when I'm at a stop where I'm leaning and i turn the wheel in. It doesn't affect my ride because I don't do any sharp turns but i think if i had to ever do an emergency manuever, I may knock myself off the bike.

How can I fix this? My tire is 700x26c. Will getting a smaller wheel (650) help? I hope thats not the solution because that would be expensive. This is an XS Giant OCR1 road bike. I probably should've gone for the SM frame instead of the smallest but I figured I'm pretty short (5'4) and the XS felt better.

barba

Toe overlap is a pretty common issue. It is usually only an issue at slow speed making tight turns. You will likely get used to it and learn to time your pedal stroke so it is less of an issue.

operator

You can't fix it. You could get a new fork to move your wheel out... but that would **** up the geometry.

old and new

too bad,didn't the salesperson try to sell you the correct frame? Answer that first,along with how possible is it to get an exchange,even if it costs you? XS is just TOOOO small for you.You're not THAT short. XS frames are for men UNDER 5',ACTUALLY very short folke(NOT you) ought not to buy that brand and model anyway,I'd explain why for the bennefit of you and others,I don't need to though,the answer to that question's obvious.Can you make an arrangement to off-the-bike??

old and new

IT IS a common issue,more so with old crit or pursuit,fast race or sprint frames.More over thoughther aspects of the frame's being too small should not be "lived with". I've seen here and in public at large,riders going to frames that are too small,it's trend I'm sure.Once in awhile real problems arrise.

supertj

The LBS actually recommended that I went with the SM frame but I had a SM before from Giant and felt it was somewhat big on me. I think the frame is right for me. I feel very comfortable on it and have gone on 4-5 hour rides and done close to a century a few times already. Its been very comfortable. Would getting the next bigger frame (SM) solve this problem? I could pass this bike onto my tiny gf who is shorter then me.

roadfix

In a couple weeks, your toe overlap "problem" won't even be an issue. You'll do just fine....guaranteed.

BTW, all my standard road bikes exhibit toe overlap and my frames average about 53cm.

old and new

you MAY want to consider that.I could come-up with Ideas,dudes in this forum could do so as well,some better than I ,I'm sure.I say what I did out of respect.You,anyone deserves the right fit.I have a long history of too small bikes.Not enough for the toe over-lap but smallish none the less.The toe-thing isn't the end of the world,riders DEAL with it,why though?In a way,you may be lucky in that such an obvious problem shows both the flaws in size and design. I spotted that the bike's frame is too small.Even if you needed a frame that small,which you don't, a rider requiring a very small frame can buy a Terry or other female specific or NON fem. specific bikes that suit.I really believe that Giant screwed-up by making that bike period. 650c IS in fact what some COs use,why didn't Giant?.Anyway that point's moot.You ought to have a bigger frame. A smaller wheel will pitch you down,unless a fork can do it.You only need an inch and a half clearence WITH your shoes on,it maybe border-line but I think the next size will fit well.It's only in the smallest sizes that the toe overlap occurs,52 sometimes,MOST of the time UNDER 50cm warrants the use of a smaller front wheel,this is in the "race geometry" which MOST road bikes have

55-11

I am also 5'4" and 145lbs. I have an OCR1 & 2 - both in small and they are perfect ...you really need to get a bike that fits you. My feet are also quite large for my size (44s) and I still don't touch the wheels (700x23). Stand over height was also a big consideration but at 5'4" you too can easily clear the top tube (even without shoes) with a small frame. If you really like the brand, go for the small - "old & new) is right ...a none of us should have to "deal" or "put up" with bikes that we spend good money on and can't enjoy without compromise. I'm done now...let us know how you decide.

Also, How long are your cranks...I use 170 Dura-Ace. you may want to consider shorter cranks...just a suggestion. Good luck!

HillRider

Toe overlap isn't limited to very small frames. I have a 55 cm Litespeed and a 56 cm Co-Motion single road bikes, both with a normal (43 mm) rake fork and 700x23 tires. I wear an average shoe size (43) with the cleats positioned about mid-range and I have toe overlap problems with both of them. A friend has the same problem with a 59 cm Litespeed but he wears extrordinarily large shoes (50+).

You have to be aware of the potential for interference when doing tight U-turns but that's about the only time it's an issue.

urbanknight

My toe overlaps. Aside from the rub marks on my shoe from waiting at red lights, it has never been a problem.

old and new

OK but it's the degree of which the interference happens. I never had the problem except on an old Columbia fixed gear,a '76. I've ever-so-slightly brushed the tip of my toe on 53 or 56 frames,the 56 is a tight-angled Titanium,if I catch my toe even the slightest bit,it happens a few times each 100 or so miles

roadfix

Even on my fixed gear, you instinctively avoid overlapping your toe....and I have major toe overlap and it's never been a problem for me.

old and new

OK,but it's "normal" for it to happen on tightly designed frame like fixed or crit, not road/race bike,this guy does centuries. I'm not being radical here.

roadfix

My fixed has standard road geometry. The reason I mentioned fixed is because I don't have much control over pedal position as I make tight turns, but it's never been an issue...

supertj

Its a compact geometry frame so would that mean I would have the same problem even if I went to the next size (SM) ? I'm going to stop at the bike shop and whine a little. Most likely they won't have a SM Giant for me to try on at the shop. Would the shop be responsible for the cost of the swap, me, or the mfg Giant if I do decide to change the frame out. It was I that made the decision to go with the XS. The shop did recommend I go with a SM but also said an XS would fit me too b/c I was in between sizes.

I'm more like 5'3.6 (i just like to consider myself 5'4 so i don't feel so short). I previously posted this about 3 months ago when I was going back and forth on the sizes

Original thread about bike size

old and new

I drove myself crazy on a frame size,hence my passionate approach.I'm 5'10" with a 33.25" true inseam Most shops when they eye-it-out will suggest a 57 or 58..TOO big, others recomend smaller for other reasons.The over-lap WILL be minimized.That problem is WHY some use the650's in front,the ONLY reason The trigonometry on a really small frame warrants it.

roadfix

Yes, 650 should be spec'ed on most small frames to keep the geometry in check, plus minimizing toe overlap in some cases.

urbanknight

Old and New, toe overlap doesn't necessarily mean the frame is too small. I have rather short legs but average or slightly large feet. Add that to a race geometry and toe overlap happens. I used to race velodrome, in which the frames have even shorter geometry and fork rakes. I still never had a problem despite you not being able to control where your pedals are.

It's important to remember that (1) toe overlap isn't a bad thing in itself. It may or may not be the result from a too small frame, and (2) getting a smaller front wheel (or both wheels) isn't that simple. Bikes are made for a specific size, so if someone decides s/he is small enough to need smaller wheels, a bike built for smaller wheels is needed.

DannoXYZ 

Big frames also have toe-overlap. It's due to having a fairly constant wheelbase with bikes. Learn to have your cranks vertical when turning or slowing to a stop. Optimum cornering form has you putting all your weight on the outside leg which has the pedal at the bottom of the stroke. And having the cranks vertical as you're slowing allows you to have all your weight on the lower pedal while you unclip and step out of the upper one.

ianjk

All of my road bikes have toe-overlap, I've never had an issue with it, even when running a fixed wheel. I was under the assumption that this was the norm.

Al1943

A frame size fit should never be based on toe overlap. Effective top tube length to torso is most important.
Toe overlap isn't worth worrying about, it's only possible at speeds of about one mph.

Al

Mr. Underbridge

If you try to turn your front wheel 90 degrees while you're moving, I guarantee you'll knock yourself off the bike, but I think that's not a function of toe overlap.

55-11

JUST IN CASE YOU MISSED THIS THE FIRST TIME...



Dude... I am nearly or exactly your height, and I have the same model frame -BUT IN SMALL- I can't stress it enough - The SMALL Size OCR1 (not the X-Small) should fit you near perfectly as it does me. Just a side note - my in-seam is 29.5 and my torso fits perfectly on the 53 cm top tube.
I am also 5'4" and 145lbs. I have an OCR1 & 2 - both in small and they are perfect ...you really need to get a bike that fits you. My feet are also quite large for my size (44s) and I still don't touch the wheels (700x23). Stand over height was also a big consideration but at 5'4" you too can easily clear the top tube (even without shoes) with a SMALL frame. If you really like the brand, go for the SMALL - "old & new" is right ...and none of us should have to "deal" or "put up" with bikes that we spend good money on and can't enjoy without compromise. I'm done now...let us know how you decide.

Also, How long are your cranks...I use 170 Dura-Ace. you may want to consider shorter cranks...just a suggestion. Good luck!

DannoXYZ 

So I guess the SMALL OCR1 has just slightly longer wheelbase and just slightly longer top-tube and front-centre that the toes don't overlap compared to the XS? Just 1cm longer top-tube can make the difference.