Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 22 of 22
  1. #1
    Senior Member rjacob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    My Bikes
    90' Trek 1000, 06' Diamondback Sorento, Trek 700 cyclocross conversion
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    What kind of cone wrenches do you like?

    What kind of cone wrenches do you like? I have a couple Park cone wrenches. But the things are made out of unhardened steel. I worry about them getting messed up when the cones are are really locked in tight! It would be nice to find some cone wrenches made of hardened steel similar to Craftsman wrenches. But Craftsman doesn't seem to make wrenches that thin.

  2. #2
    Your mom
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2,546
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Ones that work. I've never had issues with the cheapo Performance ones I have. Beat your Park ones into the ground and buy new ones if they round off. I don't know of any better product.

  3. #3
    Craig A. Lebowitz lebowitz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    1984 Trek 520 | 2002 Specialized Hardrock
    Posts
    372
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use the Bicycle Research cone wrenches that have 13-14 on one end and 15-16 on the other end. They're ok but I'd like something better.

  4. #4
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Dallas
    My Bikes
    03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
    Posts
    6,887
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by lebowitz
    I use the Bicycle Research cone wrenches that have 13-14 on one end and 15-16 on the other end.
    I've got some like that that are made by Lifu (check yours for that name stamped on them), and I'm not all that happy with them (the only Lifu tool I haven't liked much, btw) since the fit is a little sloppy and the metal isn't that hard. Lousy (i.e. no) grip, too. Plus I have some 17mm cones.

    So I got a set of Hozans. I like the tapered jaw - it makes finding the flats easier. And I like the way they fit my hand. I can't say that they're significantly better than Park, though, since I haven't used either one very long.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  5. #5
    Senior Member rjacob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    My Bikes
    90' Trek 1000, 06' Diamondback Sorento, Trek 700 cyclocross conversion
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Maybe what I will do is go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap set of metric wrenches. Then I can grind them down to be about 3 mm thick. That might work.

  6. #6
    Craig A. Lebowitz lebowitz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Washington, DC
    My Bikes
    1984 Trek 520 | 2002 Specialized Hardrock
    Posts
    372
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    DMF: Thanks for the recommendation, those Hozan's look sweet.

  7. #7
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Newtonville, Massachusetts
    My Bikes
    See: http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
    Posts
    2,301
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rjacob
    What kind of cone wrenches do you like? I have a couple Park cone wrenches. But the things are made out of unhardened steel. I worry about them getting messed up when the cones are are really locked in tight! It would be nice to find some cone wrenches made of hardened steel similar to Craftsman wrenches. But Craftsman doesn't seem to make wrenches that thin.
    All decent cone wrenches are hardened steel, but there are different degrees of hardening.

    Not hard enough, they bend or get notched by the hardened cones.

    Too hard, they become brittle and can snap.

    I like, use the Park single-ended "pro" version, but these are consumable tools.

    The very best, strongest cone wrenches I know of are the classic Campagnolo ones, which are forged, not stamped or laser cut from sheet metal as with other brands. Unfortunately the Campagnolo cone wrenches don't come in the most useful 13/15 size, and they can be sharp against your hands, since they're not all that long, and don't have padded handles.

    Sheldon "Park Works For Me" Brown
    [COLOR=blue][CENTER][b]Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts[/b]
    Phone 617-244-9772, FAX 617-244-1041
    [URL= http://harriscyclery.com] http://harriscyclery.com[/URL]
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    [URL=http://captainbike.com]http://captainbike.com[/URL]
    Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
    [URL=http://sheldonbrown.com]http://sheldonbrown.com[/URL] [/CENTER] [/COLOR]

  8. #8
    Healthy and active twobikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Caldwell, Idaho USA
    My Bikes
    mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
    Posts
    887
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I ground an adjustable wrench down to about 2 mm thickness and it makes an excellent cone wrench. See the photo below. (I did post this once before on this forum.) Grind slowly so the steel does not get too hot and cool often. Grind with the jaws closed. Finish the last bit with an oilstone if necessary.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Who am I?
    Where did I come from?
    Why am I here?
    Where am I going?

  9. #9
    Pwnerer Wordbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
    My Bikes
    Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
    Posts
    2,880
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use Park wrenches too, and the only downside I have seen with them is keeping them out of the hands of our "helper" mechanics that seem to think they're for BMX axle nuts. I had a set of the older chromed wrenches in beautiful shape after many years of use...notice I said "had".
    Quote Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
    Ski, bike and wish I was gay.

  10. #10
    Senior Member rjacob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    My Bikes
    90' Trek 1000, 06' Diamondback Sorento, Trek 700 cyclocross conversion
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I like the crecent wrench. I have a low speed grinder that I bought to sharpen lathe tools. I think that would work well. I think I might try that on a cheap set of wrenches.
    Last edited by rjacob; 05-16-07 at 06:15 AM.

  11. #11
    Perineal Pressurized dobber's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    In Ebritated
    Posts
    6,556
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rjacob
    Maybe what I will do is go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap set of metric wrenches. Then I can grind them down to be about 3 mm thick. That might work.
    That works well, assuming you have access to a grinder. Tool steel tends to be a bit tougher, we're talking quite a bit of stock to remove.

    Back when I was "King of The Waterjet", I made myself a whole slew of cone / headset / whatever wrenches with some stock steel plating.
    This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.

  12. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    845
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have a few of the Park single-ended "pro" wrenches as well, and while they're really nicely made, I've found that the 13mm one is too thick to slip under the locknut of the Shimano XT M760 front hub on my touring bike. Fortunately, I also have a Park 13/15 double-ended model, and this fits fine.

    Is there any industry rule of thumb about how thick a cone wrench should be?

  13. #13
    Healthy and active twobikes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Caldwell, Idaho USA
    My Bikes
    mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
    Posts
    887
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Metaluna
    Is there any industry rule of thumb about how thick a cone wrench should be?
    When I ground the adjustable wrench down, I measured the flat spot on a bearing cone and found it was a bit over 2 mm, so 2 mm of thickness was my target.

    And, I used an 8" wrench without any slop in the jaws. A 6" wrench would not leave much to grip the cone after grinding.
    Who am I?
    Where did I come from?
    Why am I here?
    Where am I going?

  14. #14
    Senior Member rjacob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    My Bikes
    90' Trek 1000, 06' Diamondback Sorento, Trek 700 cyclocross conversion
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dobber
    That works well, assuming you have access to a grinder. Tool steel tends to be a bit tougher, we're talking quite a bit of stock to
    I have two grinders. A heavy duty DeWalt, and a low speed grinder that I bought for sharpening lathe tools. The low speed grinder is used because it wont damage the temper of the tools.

  15. #15
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,796
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rjacob
    What kind of cone wrenches do you like? I have a couple Park cone wrenches. But the things are made out of unhardened steel. I worry about them getting messed up when the cones are are really locked in tight! It would be nice to find some cone wrenches made of hardened steel similar to Craftsman wrenches. But Craftsman doesn't seem to make wrenches that thin.
    I have a complete set of the Park pro wrenches in the shop, but as they wear, I will be replacing them one by one with Pedros as they are clearly superior. Most cheap Chinese made hubs come with the locknuts way over torqued, and my 15mm park wrench sprung open after very little use. The Pedro's wrench I replaced it with is holding up very well.
    What ever brand you pick, this is one tool I would not reccommend going with the consumer grade version.
    Dan Burkhart
    www.boomerbicycle.ca

  16. #16
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Layton, UT
    My Bikes
    2004 Giant OCR, 2002 Specialized Stumpjumper, 2008 Trek 6500 Disc
    Posts
    686
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I have the park flat cone wrenches. If I could have my way, I would get the ones that have the rubber coating on them. There have been times when I have scraped my hands up from using the cone wrenches without the rubber coating.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Cadfael's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Posts
    475
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by twobikes
    I ground an adjustable wrench down to about 2 mm thickness and it makes an excellent cone wrench. See the photo below. (I did post this once before on this forum.) Grind slowly so the steel does not get too hot and cool often. Grind with the jaws closed. Finish the last bit with an oilstone if necessary.
    I am so glad you posted that... I did the same but with normal wrenches that fit the cones on the front and rear... they work just fine. I seemed to have collected quite a few 14mm and 13mm wrenches over the years, so grinding a couple down was no loss.

    But your idea is better, I have one or two of those as well!

  18. #18
    Senior Member metabike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    397
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I personally like the waffle cones the best.

  19. #19
    Senior Member rjacob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    My Bikes
    90' Trek 1000, 06' Diamondback Sorento, Trek 700 cyclocross conversion
    Posts
    153
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well! I got a bunch of Pedro's Cone Wrenches (with the yellow rubber handles) really cheap! I stopped at a clearance store for the local sporting good places, and they had a bunch of them mark 40% off lowest ticketed price. I bought 2 @ 13mm, 2 @ 14mm, 2 @ 16mm, 1 @ 32mm, and 1 @ 36mm. They didn't have any of the 15mm wrenches though. The two big wrenches cost about $4.50, and the smaller ones all cost about $2.50 each. I thought about buying em all and trying to sell them on ebay of something.
    Now I just need to pick up a 15mm wrench or two to complete my set of Pedro's.
    I also bought a few other Pedro's tools (bottom bracket tool, freewheel remover, etc) that duplicate some I have by Park Tools. But they were so cheap, it will be nice to have some backups. Tools break occasionally.

  20. #20
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Dallas
    My Bikes
    03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
    Posts
    6,887
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What store? for goo'ness sake?
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

  21. #21
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Newtonville, Massachusetts
    My Bikes
    See: http://sheldonbrown.org/bicycles
    Posts
    2,301
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by rjacob
    Well! I got a bunch of Pedro's Cone Wrenches (with the yellow rubber handles) really cheap! I stopped at a clearance store for the local sporting good places, and they had a bunch of them mark 40% off lowest ticketed price. I bought 2 @ 13mm, 2 @ 14mm, 2 @ 16mm, 1 @ 32mm, and 1 @ 36mm. They didn't have any of the 15mm wrenches though. The two big wrenches cost about $4.50, and the smaller ones all cost about $2.50 each. I thought about buying em all and trying to sell them on ebay of something.
    Now I just need to pick up a 15mm wrench or two to complete my set of Pedro's.
    I also bought a few other Pedro's tools (bottom bracket tool, freewheel remover, etc) that duplicate some I have by Park Tools. But they were so cheap, it will be nice to have some backups. Tools break occasionally.
    Pedro's wrenches are fine, but my guess is that you got these cheap because they're not very useful sizes. The 14 mms will fit some Campagnolo hubs. 16 mm is good for Sturmey-Archer and some old French stuff, not much else.

    The useful sizes are 13 mm (almost all modern front hubs) and 15 mm (most modern rear hubs.)

    Sheldon "13/15" Brown
    [COLOR=blue][CENTER][b]Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts[/b]
    Phone 617-244-9772, FAX 617-244-1041
    [URL= http://harriscyclery.com] http://harriscyclery.com[/URL]
    Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    [URL=http://captainbike.com]http://captainbike.com[/URL]
    Useful articles about bicycles and cycling
    [URL=http://sheldonbrown.com]http://sheldonbrown.com[/URL] [/CENTER] [/COLOR]

  22. #22
    Elitist Troglodyte DMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Dallas
    My Bikes
    03 Raleigh Professional (steel)
    Posts
    6,887
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    My Shimano WH-R540 front hubs are 17mm.

    Surprised me, too.
    Stupidity got us into this mess - why can't it get us out?

    - Will Rogers

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •