i have the park tool for it....tns something. it says to screw on the nut and then insert the tool over the top. then drive in the star nut with a hammer blows on the top. do i need to remove the fork. do i put it on a stand? how do i get it ready? i don;t want to break anything
Last time I did it, I used an old wooden chair, turned over on its side so that the seat (which is about 1" thick, reasonably smooth wood with well rounded edges) was vertical. Then I positioned the fork blades over the seat with a neoprene mousepad sandwiched in between to protect the carbon. I used a star nut setter I bought from Nashbar for about $7. I also used the chair to install the fork crown baseplate with a brass slide hammer.
I picked a chair because I needed a surface that was 1) sturdy, 2) thin enough to support a road fork at the crown and not put too much pressure on the blades, and 3) able to stand solidly "upright" on its own, unlike, say, trying to hold a 2x4 between my knees. The chair was the first thing I spotted while rooting around in my basement. A good bench vise would have given me a lot more options -- a very handy tool to have for working on the headset/fork area.
Rans Rockst (Retro rocket) Rans Enduro Sport (Retro racket) Hase Kettweisel Tandem (redundent recumbent), Merin Bear Valley (The gopher).
I protect the dropouts by supporting the fork with a piece of 2 x 4 under the fork crown.
It takes a couple of pretty good blows to get the star nut started. When you do get it started, chances are it won't be straight so work with your nut setter to get it straight before you get to the final depth.
Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP)
I just stick the bolt in the star nut till it's threaded through and tap it in gently. If the bolt head goes off center I just change the direction of strike to orient it properly. There's been for me enough slack in the top cap fit that final centering can be done when tightening it all up.