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  1. #1
    Sheldon Brown's posse shogun17's Avatar
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    triplet wheel building

    I am planning to build a training/club race wheelset for next season using DA 7800 hubs, Aeroheads and haven't really decided on spokes. Probably DT Revo front and competition rear.

    The question is, I am planning to lace the rear using a triplet pattern (eg Campy G3, Fulcrum 2:1) to even out tension. I will be using a 36h hub and rim with 18+9 spokes, with one hole left out for each triplet group. My question is would this, if built well, be reasonably stiff and reliable?

  2. #2
    A little North of Hell
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    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
    XXXI

  3. #3
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    I've not done it, but I'm planning to build this way the next time I build myself a rear geared wheel. Please post back on how it goes!

  4. #4
    Ho-Jahm Hocam's Avatar
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    Talk to your LBS, they may be able to get custom drilling from velocity.
    Race-o-meter:
    Broken until next season

  5. #5
    Sheldon Brown's posse shogun17's Avatar
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    For the time and money taken for what I would gain, I'll stick with a 36 spoke rim for now.

    Besides, I work at the LBS.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun17
    I am planning to build a training/club race wheelset for next season using DA 7800 hubs, Aeroheads and haven't really decided on spokes. Probably DT Revo front and competition rear.

    The question is, I am planning to lace the rear using a triplet pattern (eg Campy G3, Fulcrum 2:1) to even out tension. I will be using a 36h hub and rim with 18+9 spokes, with one hole left out for each triplet group. My question is would this, if built well, be reasonably stiff and reliable?
    I have almost 1000 miles on a triplet-laced wheel I bought this season. White Ind. H-1 32-hole hub, CX-Ray spokes, Niobium 30mm, 24 hole clincher rim. This build was recommended by Troy Ligero. It's a beautiful wheel with almost equal spoke tension on the drive and non-drive side. I've put in some hard training miles and a couple race efforts on bad roads, climbs and descents and the wheels seem bullet proof, even under my 100 kg weight.

  7. #7
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by percy
    I have almost 1000 miles on a triplet-laced wheel I bought this season. White Ind. H-1 32-hole hub, CX-Ray spokes, Niobium 30mm, 24 hole clincher rim. This build was recommended by Troy Ligero. It's a beautiful wheel with almost equal spoke tension on the drive and non-drive side. I've put in some hard training miles and a couple race efforts on bad roads, climbs and descents and the wheels seem bullet proof, even under my 100 kg weight.
    32h hub vs 24h rim: BRILLIANT!


  8. #8
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by percy
    I have almost 1000 miles on a triplet-laced wheel I bought this season. White Ind. H-1 32-hole hub, CX-Ray spokes, Niobium 30mm, 24 hole clincher rim. This build was recommended by Troy Ligero. It's a beautiful wheel with almost equal spoke tension on the drive and non-drive side. I've put in some hard training miles and a couple race efforts on bad roads, climbs and descents and the wheels seem bullet proof, even under my 100 kg weight.
    What spoke lengths? I'm guessing the 32 vs. 24 hole rim drilling changes the length very little so you would use 32 hole hub/rim calculations. Either that or average the 32/24 hub/rim combinations. Guess I'm going to have to experiment to decide what I'd choose. Am I off in left field?

  9. #9
    Making a kilometer blurry waterrockets's Avatar
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    The NDS spokes should all be the same length 24h or 32h because they're radial. For the DS spokes, I'll bet an average from 24h to 32h would be just about perfect.

  10. #10
    Sheldon Brown's posse shogun17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterrockets
    32h hub vs 24h rim: BRILLIANT!
    Yeah but I want 27, also availability problems.

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