TheCybermen

(Road bike)

I just picked up a new squeak in the front wheel at the junction between the fork and the quick release. The spokes are tight and need no adjusting. The wheel is true.

Does this sound like yet another job for...GREASE? Or perhaps some other issue?

mike

Squeek? You are suggesting that the squeek is coming from the front hub. That would be unusual, even if the hub needed grease.

More likely would be a squeek from the wheel (rim) not being true and rubbing against the brake pads.

You say that the wheel is true. If so, it MIGHT be the case where the bearing cones are a little loose and your wheel has a chance to wobble a bit. You wouldn't necessarily notice this when checking on the bike stand, but the wheel might wobble when you are riding it. Again, the source of the squeek would be from the brake pad against the rim.

Hope this helps. The "squeek" and other "mystery sound" threads always bring a million different suggestions, so let the games begin!

tool boy

Some QR's will squeak much like a stem/handlebar interface can. I would try some lube on the pivot point and on the curved portion of the lever and the nut. Crank that baby down tight and hope for the best. You should also check the dustcaps on the hub if there are any. I have only found this on rear wheels, but sometimes the dustcap is too dry and will squeak. Pry back the dustcap a little and put a little lube there. Good Luck !

TheCybermen

this actually did the trick -- i took some chain lube and dropped a few drops into the pivot points of QR/hub, cranked down tight, spun and the squeak was gone. I'll take it out tomorrow for a bona fide test run and follow-up if necessary...

eddyz

I also had the squeeking noise from the front wheel. I found out when ever i stood , the wheel will make the noise. i added some light grease on the fork joint, and the sound was gone.

waterrockets 

Careful cranking down that QR -- make sure your hub is properly adjusted for it if you have loose ball bearings. The QR should just barely remove the last bit of play in the hub. Overtightening will dramatically shorten the life of a loose-ball hub.

TheCybermen

can you elaborate a bit more on this? i've generally clamped the QR tight enough so that it cannot be unclamped without some effort, but not so tight that it would take serious elbow grease to unclamp it. in other words, how tight should the QR be clamped down, as a reference?

waterrockets 

Sure. It's probably easiest to read it from the master... Search for "Adjusment of bearings" here: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html

You can set your hub up to have your QR as tight as you want it. You just have to make the hub even looser if you really want to crank on the QR. No harm in that.

To test it, I close my QR 3/4 of the way, and confirm that I have a very tiny amount of play, then confirm that I have zero play when the QR is fully closed. I'm not too picky on QR tension, as long as it's tight enough to leave an impression in my hand when closing it. This way, I actually finalize my hub adjustment with the QR instead of the cones.