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  1. #1
    Pastafarian Prophet All1NTao's Avatar
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    Favorite/ Best Rattle-Can paint??

    I searched the forums and could not find this topic, although it is referenced a lot in other paint threads. What is your favorite or best rattle-can pain available? Who makes it, where can I buy it, and any good link would be super duper!
    Abandon the search for truth, settle for a good fantasy.

  2. #2
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    I've used the Dupli-Color brand, it's available at auto parts stores. It's intended for small auto body touch up jobs, a whole "system" is available: primer, color, and clear coat. The best thing about this paint is the color selection; each color is a match to some particular factory auto paint, so there are dozens of colors available. I've painted a couple of bikes with it, and the folks who don't know the paint was rattle-canned are very surprised when I tell them-

  3. #3
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    I've used Krylon, Rustoleum, the "Industrial"? Rustoleum, and Dupli-color, and IMHO the duplicolor gives the best and longer lasting finish, plus like well biked said, all those colors to choose from. Someone on BF mentioned that there used to be a two-part epoxy paint system in a rattle-can. You have to rattle it hard enough to break an internal seal to mix it. If that's still around anywhere I'd like to try it.

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    +1 on the Dupli-Color, be sure to hit it with sandable primer first and wet sand it with 400 grit wet-dry before you shoot the color coat.

    1. One coat primer
    2. wet sand
    3. Color
    4. wet sand with 600 or 800 grit wet-dry
    5. 2nd color coat
    6. Clear coat

  5. #5
    Pastafarian Prophet All1NTao's Avatar
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    I have heard the reference to wet sand many times. What does it mean? Are you using a normal sandpaper of fine grit and wetting it with water? Or is there some other special paper or process? I tried it on my last paint job and it seemed to do more harm than good.
    Abandon the search for truth, settle for a good fantasy.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    All of the Dupli-Color touch up paints are lacquer and lacquer is not as durable as enamel. The Dupli-Color wheel paint and clear coat is enamel and is very durable. The trouble with enamel is that it takes so long to dry. Put the frame in your attic for a couple of weeks to cure the paint before you assemble the bike. It can get up to 150 degrees in an attic in the summer, so it's a great place to bake enamel. The white wheel paint is a good match to Peugeot white, by the way.

    Use their self-etching primer on bare metal, followed by sandable primer and then self-ething primer on any spots that get sanded through to bare metal. I sand between coats with 400 grit emery paper. Wet sanding keeps the paper from clogging. use something like Prepsol to clean before spraying.
    Last edited by Grand Bois; 06-06-07 at 08:20 AM.

  7. #7
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by All1NTao
    I have heard the reference to wet sand many times. What does it mean? Are you using a normal sandpaper of fine grit and wetting it with water? Or is there some other special paper or process? I tried it on my last paint job and it seemed to do more harm than good.
    It is special paper that you wet with water. The box will be usually be labeled wet/dry at the store. Places like Home Depot usually carry as fine as 400 grit, every once in a while 600 grit, but an auto body paint and supply store will carry 800, 1000, 1500, etc. You want to use a very fine grit (high number) to color sand paint. It's not required with enamels unless you're trying to fix spots.

  8. #8
    Mister Bleak! mconlonx's Avatar
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    ...or if you just want down and dirty protection, truck bed liner applied with a brush is an extremely durable finish. Home application quantities are available at auto supply stores. Three coats covers everything, follow application directions--rough paint with sandpaper or scotchbright, clean with xylene, and go to town. Just be sure to mask anything you don't want covered with a rough surface. Like threaded eyelets, and machined mating surfaces, drop-outs, etc.

    Other, equally alternative tips and teks here: http://ratbike.org/t_paint.php

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by vpiuva
    It is special paper that you wet with water. The box will be usually be labeled wet/dry at the store. Places like Home Depot usually carry as fine as 400 grit, every once in a while 600 grit, but an auto body paint and supply store will carry 800, 1000, 1500, etc. You want to use a very fine grit (high number) to color sand paint. It's not required with enamels unless you're trying to fix spots.
    +1 for best results buy wet-or-dry from an automotive paint supplier. Use 320 for rough sanding, 600 between coats, and 2000 or higher for color sanding followed by polishing. I have used as high as 3000.
    Use plenty of water while sanding.

    Al

  10. #10
    Pastafarian Prophet All1NTao's Avatar
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    I assume you are hand sanding vs. using a drimmel or power sander. What about polishing compound is this avaiable at an auto paint store as well? Do you use this as a finishing touch after clear cloat and before a wax?
    Abandon the search for truth, settle for a good fantasy.

  11. #11
    biked well well biked's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by All1NTao
    I assume you are hand sanding vs. using a drimmel or power sander. What about polishing compound is this avaiable at an auto paint store as well? Do you use this as a finishing touch after clear cloat and before a wax?
    Polishing compound has abrasives, don't use it except on old dull or scuffed-up paint. Don't use it at all on your new paint job. After your new paint job is thoroughly cured you can use a clearcoat-safe wax on it if you like. I've done that on the Dupli-Color paint jobs I've done, it looks great-

  12. #12
    Senior Member squirtdad's Avatar
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    I used duplic-color engine enamal...and I thougt it came out pretty good..... there are a couple of nice metallics in the engine enamel line also.....I also put a top coat of reflective paint from duplicolor.. so don't know if it the best, but it worked well for me......

    my first build Nishiki International

  13. #13
    Pastafarian Prophet All1NTao's Avatar
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    Nice paint job squirtdad, like the lug detail as well.
    Abandon the search for truth, settle for a good fantasy.

  14. #14
    BF Risk Manager
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    I saw a piece of play equipment (metal and plastic) recently that was painted with the new Krylon Fusion paint. It was a very smooth and even coating. I wonder what the durability is.
    Regards, MillCreek
    Snohomish County, Washington USA

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by All1NTao
    I assume you are hand sanding vs. using a drimmel or power sander. What about polishing compound is this avaiable at an auto paint store as well? Do you use this as a finishing touch after clear cloat and before a wax?
    On a bicycle I assume most finish work would be done by hand. Polishing compounds or rubbing compounds, like sand paper, come in various grit sizes, and from the same stores. Many one-step auto waxes include abrasives. Some don't.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
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    You can see my handiwork here:
    My new '59 Carlton
    It's not a rattlecan job, but the methods are the same.

  17. #17
    Pastafarian Prophet All1NTao's Avatar
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    Does anyone shop for paint online? If so can you post a good link?
    Abandon the search for truth, settle for a good fantasy.

  18. #18
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by soloban
    +1 on the Dupli-Color, be sure to hit it with sandable primer first and wet sand it with 400 grit wet-dry before you shoot the color coat.

    1. One coat primer
    2. wet sand
    3. Color
    4. wet sand with 600 or 800 grit wet-dry
    5. 2nd color coat
    6. Clear coat
    I normally go with 1200-1500-2000 after that (step 6), then polishing compound (Megs Diamond Cut or 3M) To get the show room shine.

    Old habits from painting cars die hard

  19. #19
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by squirtdad
    I used duplic-color engine enamal...and I thougt it came out pretty good..... there are a couple of nice metallics in the engine enamel line also.....I also put a top coat of reflective paint from duplicolor.. so don't know if it the best, but it worked well for me......

    my first build Nishiki International
    I like your paint job. Really crazy color but nice

  20. #20
    Senior Member squirtdad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by group105
    I like your paint job. Really crazy color but nice
    thanks....I like obnoxious...er....bright colors...and want the visibility.....(it is my utiliyt/commuter bike...get on and go get that loaf of bread...don't worry about the shoes, the shorts...just go)

  21. #21
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by All1NTao
    I assume you are hand sanding vs. using a drimmel or power sander. What about polishing compound is this avaiable at an auto paint store as well? Do you use this as a finishing touch after clear cloat and before a wax?

    My advice comes from painting cars. I would not use a dremel because it is very easy to create low spots which will show when the bike is painted.

    I've always used compound. I used Megs DiamondCut and 3M Finesse it compound ($$$). I would recommend the cheap green or red Turtle was you can get at WalMart.
    Here is a quick rundown of how it goes:
    1)Clean bike before stripping using paint prep degreaser (you can strip the frame with sand paper 400 grit or with paint striper solution). Do another cleaning with the paint prep.
    2)Primer it (etching primer for aluminum and bare frames).
    3)Spray your coats and use a heat gun or hair drier to bake the paint and help it cure.
    4)Wait between coats.
    5)I normally sand between coats with 800 or 600 but make sure the paint is dry. I use a tack cloth (any autobody store has this and even a hobby store carries it) to remove the paint which has been sanded before applying another coat.
    6)After you apply the clear coat (I would do a few layers) the sanding would be 800-1200-1500-2000 then the polishing compound. You can probably go with 1200-1500 then compound and be OK.

    The majority of modern waxes do not contain abrasives or polishes in them (stuff from good companies such as Meguiars or Mother's).

  22. #22
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by squirtdad
    thanks....I like obnoxious...er....bright colors...and want the visibility.....(it is my utiliyt/commuter bike...get on and go get that loaf of bread...don't worry about the shoes, the shorts...just go)
    Even the blind people will see you with that bike

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