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  1. #1
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    KHS Flite broken braze-on

    I have a Flite 700 frame with a broken braze-on for the front derailleur. The frame was replaced under warranty and the former owner gave me this frame for a song. I'm interested in building a bike for my wife to introduce her to road bikes and was wondering what my options were. The downtube is an oval with a recess in the back and I don't know of a clamp-on that would work. I've considered an E-type, but was wondering what else might be available that I'm not aware of.

    Russ
    Last edited by SuperC; 06-24-07 at 08:25 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member capwater's Avatar
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    If your seat tube is round, a clamp should work fine. I ran into this problem with a teammate's TT bike. The frame had a cutout for the wheel so the clamp would work. What I did was grind down the broken off stub and mount a derailler mount from a CF bike. I had to drill and tap two holes into the frame, but once done the mount screwed in just fine.

  3. #3
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    that's the problem

    The seat tube is not round, it is "arrowhead shaped", hollow on the rear tire side and oval on the other. It would take a custom shaped clamp to put a clamp-on deralleur hanger. I've considered this, or trying to tap/screw/epoxy another derailleur hanger on the tube. Having it TIG welded doesn't sound like an option, since I would have trouble finding someone to do it, it would mess up the paint, might affect the temper, etc.

  4. #4
    Healthy and active twobikes's Avatar
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    Someone else had the same problem with a KHS frame. Click here. I suggested a bracket that would fit onto the mounting bosses for the two water bottles. There is a drawing I posted.
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  5. #5
    Dr.Deltron
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperC
    I've considered this, or trying to tap/screw/epoxy another derailleur hanger on the tube. Having it TIG welded doesn't sound like an option, since I would have trouble finding someone to do it, it would mess up the paint, might affect the temper, etc.
    If the original was brazed on, then have a new one brazed on.
    You might lose 3-4" of paint on the seat tube.
    Just wire brush the burnt paint, sand with 320, mask the area and shoot some black Krylon.
    For added fun, use some 1/8" gold striping tape over the edge of the black.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all...

    Good ideas, I had thought about using the seat tube bottle holder holes with a curved piece to match the tube curve, but did not think about using the front down tube as well. I don't KNOW if it is brazed on or welded on, that's my problem. I'll take it to someone knowledgeable and see if they can do the job. If not, I'll look into the adapter method. My last resort will be an E-type derailleur or a custom made "arrowhead shaped" tube clamp and a bolt on derailleur.

  7. #7
    Healthy and active twobikes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperC
    I had thought about using the seat tube bottle holder holes with a curved piece to match the tube curve, but did not think about using the front down tube as well.
    Using the front water bottle bosses adds stability and keeps the derailleur and its mount from flexing and twisting during shifting and during riding. Another couple of posts referred to soldering aluminum with a special rod and a common MAPP gas or propane torch. Bernzomatic makes a very similar rod available at Home Depot. If you wanted to save on weight and make a mounting bracket from aluminum, this would be something to try. Click here.
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  8. #8
    Master of the Obvious
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    What year is the 750. The reason I asked is because the 06-07 models are CF fusion with a replaceble derailer hanger.

  9. #9
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    It's a 2004

    Wish it was replaceable...
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  10. #10
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperC
    Wish it was replaceable...
    I'm a bit confused that pic is for a Flite 700 but you mentioned Fite 750 in the original post. The 750 is CF.

  11. #11
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    The frame is Al right? If so, the tab is welded on, not brazed. For CF, the tab would be glued and riveted but there are no rivets shown in the photo.

    BTW, "replaceable derailleur hanger" refers to the rear derailleur, not the front.

  12. #12
    Master of the Obvious
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    The frame is Al right? If so, the tab is welded on, not brazed. For CF, the tab would be glued and riveted but there are no rivets shown in the photo.

    BTW, "replaceable derailleur hanger" refers to the rear derailleur, not the front.

    What I'm saying is I was confused because the 750 is CF and then the picture he has shows Ai and also has a caption which says it is a 700. So I'm trying to figure out what he has.

    If he has a 700 then it is Ai if it is the 750 then it is CF.

  13. #13
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    My apologies

    It IS a 700. I picked up the frame a year ago and hadn't pulled it out of storage when I posted, thus I was off by "50" in my description. I just finished picking up my '07 Supercourse and have been preoccupied with it. Today I pulled all the components from my '90 Nishiki International and began installing everything on the KHS 700. I'm building it up for my wife as an intro into road biking. Now, the frame is aluminum. The front derailleur bracket is broken off, reference the picture I provided. What are my options? Once again, I apologize for saying "750" instead of "700", but I would appreciate any advice.

  14. #14
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    Unless you are willing to make this a major project by having a new hanger welded on and the frame repainted, I see only two solutions:

    1. Grind off the broken stub flush with the seat tube and pop-rivet or riv-nut a new bracket at the old location.

    2. Go with the E-mount as you first noted but, IIRC, these are all MTB derailleurs and won't work properly with a road crank and brifters.

  15. #15
    Senior Member DannoXYZ's Avatar
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    The Trek 5500 OCLV series has a bolted-on FD tab. You might be able to get one of those and drill holes and use rivnuts to hold it on.

  16. #16
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    Thank you all,

    I received a tip on the framebuilders forum and have a couple different aluminum derailleur bosses in the mail to me now. I'll grind the current tab down, fit the replacement in it's place and epoxy/rivet the new one on. If that fails me, I'll try the wonder braze that was suggested.

  17. #17
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    Problem solved

    I ground off the old front derailleur tab, drilled four 3/16" holes in an aluminum tab from Nova, JB Welded it and put in 4 pop rivets. Tomorrow after the JB has cured, I'll try it out. This is a budget build for the wife to try to get her into road biking ($30 for the KHS, free Suntour donor parts from my old 1990 Nishiki International).

  18. #18
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    Success!

    JB Weld and rivets held up like a champ and the wife is on her way to feeling the road bike bug. Next is a set of Sora brifters so we can ditch the Suntour downtube shifters and she should be set for now.

  19. #19
    Senior Member Nessism's Avatar
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    No disrespect intended but why didn't you just buy a clamp-on front derailleur? Or at least an accessory clamp for a braze on derailleur? Way less obtrusive to the frame than drilling holes and using pop rivets.
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  20. #20
    Dr.Deltron
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    From what I understand of it, JB weld probably didn't need the rivets.

    +1 on what nessism said. My older Tour Easy recumbent had a clamp on bracket that used a "braze-on" style front deraileur.

    Whatever...Glad you got it fixed & she's now enjoying it!

  21. #21
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    None taken..

    I would have loved to do that, but the seat tube on a Flite 700 is roughly arrowhead shaped in cross section and I didn't want to fab up a custom bracket to make it work that way. It WAS an option, but would have taken some machining. If the current method ever fails, I may yet pursue it. I'll get some pics up as soon as I can.

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