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  1. #1
    Fattest Thin Man Az B's Avatar
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    OLD on different wheels

    Over locknut-dimension from wheel to wheel. How is it changed? Spacer behind the locknut?

    I picked up a pair of used Mavic Open Pro/Ultegra wheels. I installed a 9 speed cassette and ran them on my commuter bike, an old steel bike with friction shifting. Everything worked great, although the 11 tooth cog was a little close to the frame. But nothing contacted.

    So now I'm installing those wheels on a newer 2005 aluminum bike with indexed shifting, and it's difficult to get the shifting correct. It's pretty obvious that the locknut on the freehub side is closer to the freehub on the Mavics than it is on the original wheels for the newer bike.

    Is it as simple as installing spacers behind the locknut to move the locknut farther out to make the OLD the same as the old axle? I read a good bit about it on Sheldon's site, but no mention was made of this. Although it did mention that a new axle may not be required if there is at least 2mm of axle outside the locknuts.

    Any ideas?

    Az

  2. #2
    * vpiuva's Avatar
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    If you swap a washer from the non-drive to the drive side you won't affect the OLD, but you might have to redish a little. Your 9s wheel and your new frame should both be 130mm unless the previous wheel owner adjusted it.

  3. #3
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    If you just add a spacer to the drive side you will increase the actual OLD by the thickness of the spacer. That may be ok if installing the wheel in the frame isn't too dificult.

    To maintain the original OLD you will need to remove the same thickness spacer from the non-drive side of the hub. You should then recenter the axle to be sure the nds stub isn't too long and interfers with closing the quick release firmly on the dropout face.

    Finally, if you are a real stickler and add/remove/redistribute spacers, you should redish the wheel as required.

  4. #4
    Fattest Thin Man Az B's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider
    If you just add a spacer to the drive side you will increase the actual OLD by the thickness of the spacer. That may be ok if installing the wheel in the frame isn't too dificult.

    To maintain the original OLD you will need to remove the same thickness spacer from the non-drive side of the hub. You should then recenter the axle to be sure the nds stub isn't too long and interfers with closing the quick release firmly on the dropout face.

    Finally, if you are a real stickler and add/remove/redistribute spacers, you should redish the wheel as required.
    Thanks, that worked. I can't imagine that redishing the wheel is required, the spacer was only about 1.5mm. It worked a charm though, everything lined up darn near perfectly, even the derailluer was nearly spot on.

    Az

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