Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 28
  1. #1
    Banned. exas's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    133
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    what kind of brakes are the "best"?

    what kind of brakes are the "best"? i'm currently riding a mountain bike with v brakes. they are made of steel which is quite heavy. so another question would be what makes a brake a good brake?

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montreal QC, Canada
    Posts
    172
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Good question, I'm also wondering the same thing, still using the stock vbrakes that came with my bike, breaks without problem. I guess as long as it's properly adjusted and fitted with good pads, it should do the job?

  3. #3
    Dr.Deltron
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by exas
    so another question would be what makes a brake a good brake?
    Matthauser pads!!

  4. #4
    Senior Member Ziemas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Riga, Latvia
    Posts
    10,059
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Avid makes very good V-brakes. I prefer the Single Digit 7. Also the type of pad makes a big difference. Kool Stop pads seem to have more bite than any other I have tried.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    1,180
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I owned bikes with bad V-brakes (take it you mean calliper on rims) (my '73 Schwinn LeTour), good disc brakes (Cannondale Cyclocross Disc), and now, good V-brakes (Giant TCR).

    I prefer good V brakes to the disc brakes.

    If I rode bikes with fat tires, I might prefer the disc brakes, especially if I were doing a lot of riding on steep mountain trails, etc., where you might have, for instance, really long stretches of slow, controlled, downhill stretches where you used the brake most of the way.

    My disc brakes were from Avid, cable controlled. They tended to be noisy (especially in wet weather), and were very difficult to keep centered on the disc. More times than not, when you went to get on or off the bike and would move it, one or other brake pads would touch their respective disc and cause it to sing like a water glass vibrating. Used to really annoy me.

    They were great at stopping the wheel rotation (always) in any weather. Unfortunately, IMO, when you needed to stop the hardest, generally, any good brake is probably adequate, and any can be over modulated in an emergency stop and throw you to the ground.

    The brakes on my Giant are more than adequate (in all the types of weather in which I ride), and are much lighter, and do not restrict the sorts of things I want to do to my bike.

    In the weeks leading up to an accident that totalled the Clyclocross, I experienced a wheel failure (unrelated to any accident) and shopped to upgrade my wheels. Choices were very limited because of the disc brake setup.

    Also, I find it much simpler to install the wheels on my Giant Calliper setup. You open a little quick release lever on the calliper and take out the wheel. Installation is the reverse - insert the wheel, close the quick release. If you miss, the tire hits the calliper - no big deal.

    More than once, when fixing a flat out on the road, I inadvertently misaligned the disc rotar when installing the tire, knocked the little spring that holds the brake pad to the calliper, it fell out and, due to the overgrown area, was lost. Had to ride home not only on a soft tire, but without my rear brake.

    Those little metal pads are quite pricey, too.

    Dont' get me wrong. Those discs were good brakes, and, while I had them, I was quite proud of them.

    But, in the end, they are more brake than most of us needs, they are heavy, and, IMO, not as easy to work with as plain old (but well designed) V-Callipers.

    My Giant brakes are self-centering and never rub the rim when I'm not braking.

    Caruso

  6. #6
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    9,163
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by exas
    what kind of brakes are the "best"? i'm currently riding a mountain bike with v brakes. they are made of steel which is quite heavy. so another question would be what makes a brake a good brake?
    One that stops smoothly, quietly and with minimal amount of effort, first time, every time in all kind of weather.

    That is what makes a brake a good brake.

  7. #7
    Senior Member z415's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Gainesville/Tampa, FL
    My Bikes
    Trek 1000, two mtbs and working on a fixie for commuting.
    Posts
    2,347
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The best brakes are the ones that work perfectly. Usually that requires meticulous adjustments and installation and high quality pads.

    I prefer v-brakes, but anything that can be pulled with flat bar levers can stop quite well.
    Falling is learning...[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]...learn to not fall in a box.
    Any good American will watch THIS -and- WHERE WAS MY BIKE MADE?

  8. #8
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,718
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Stacey
    One that stops smoothly, quietly and with minimal amount of effort, first time, every time in all kind of weather.

    That is what makes a brake a good brake.
    Also I want the pads to move simultaneously both when I apply the brake and when I release it.

  9. #9
    Senior Member miamijim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Tampa, Florida
    Posts
    11,810
    Mentioned
    17 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Stacey
    One that stops smoothly, quietly and with minimal amount of effort, first time, every time in all kind of weather.

    That is what makes a brake a good brake.
    I agree....
    WWW.CYCLESPEUGEOT.COM 2005 Pinarello Dogma; 1991 Paramount PDG 70 Mtb; 1976? AD Vent Noir; 1989 LeMond Maillot Juane F&F; 1993? Basso GAP F&F; 1989 Terry Symmetry; 2003 Trek 4700 Mtb; 1983 Vitus 979

  10. #10
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    9,163
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    Also I want the pads to move simultaneously both when I apply the brake and when I release it.
    Doh! How could I have ever overlooked that?

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    5,426
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    What makes a good brake is the hand that actuates it. Every medium price+ brake I've come across, whether a centerpull or side pull or v-brake I've been able to get the back wheel to start to come up at maximum braking. The only exception are 3 spd bikes with steel rims. They just don't work well dry and don't work at all wet.

    Modern brakes have way more stopping power than most people are able to use. Disc brakes are the biggest overkill I've seen.
    Il faut de l'audace, encore de l'audace, toujours de l'audace

    1980 3Rensho-- 1975 Raleigh Sprite 3spd
    1990s Raleigh M20 MTB--2007 Windsor Hour (track)
    1988 Ducati 750 F1

  12. #12
    Non Tribuo Anus Rodentum and off to the next adventure (RIP) Stacey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Posts
    9,163
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    that may be so, but they look so damn cool.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Old Hammer Boy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Utah
    My Bikes
    Trek, Cannondale Tandem, Surly LHT
    Posts
    1,082
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by San Rensho
    Disc brakes are the biggest overkill I've seen.
    Not really, especially on a tandem. Good rims are expensive and discs don't wear out the rims. Discs help prevent tire blow-out by not putting heat into the rim. True, discs may be overkill on some bikes, but your generalization is not totally correct in all cases. We sure appreciate them on our tandem when coming down a mountain pass at 45+ MPH.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Montreal QC, Canada
    Posts
    172
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Don't disk brake also put a lot of stress on the spokes? I've heard your wheel may go out of true faster

  15. #15
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,292
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    Also I want the pads to move simultaneously both when I apply the brake and when I release it.
    Yes except that all of the "I want this brake to do" is down to how you set it up, ype of pads used and not how the brake is made.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,718
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by operator
    Yes except that all of the "I want this brake to do" is down to how you set it up, ype of pads used and not how the brake is made.
    Gonna have to disagree with you there.

    You'll fight forever with some of the cheap, old single pivot caliper brakes to keep both sides releasing equally. The cheaper linear pull brakes will drive you crazy too. How about the plastic spring retainers on Shimano canty brakes that crack and keep one arm from retracting properly?

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    My Bikes
    Basso, Tommaso, Ibex, Schwinn, SWOBO, Trek
    Posts
    1,930
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Avid Juicy 7 carbon things w/ 8" rotors..........or yeh, Carbon levers

  18. #18
    Senior Member Grand Bois's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pinole, CA, USA
    Posts
    15,199
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Hershey Longnecks are my all-time favorites.


  19. #19
    I drink your MILKSHAKE Raiyn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    St. Petersburg, FL
    My Bikes
    2003 Specialized Rockhopper FSR Comp, 1999 Specialized Hardrock Comp FS, 1971 Schwinn Varsity
    Posts
    15,071
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Daijoubu
    Don't disk brake also put a lot of stress on the spokes? I've heard your wheel may go out of true faster
    Not always true.

  20. #20
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    St Peters, Missouri
    My Bikes
    Rans Enduro Sport, Hase Kettweisel Tandem, Merin Bear Valley beater bike
    Posts
    23,718
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Daijoubu
    Don't disk brake also put a lot of stress on the spokes? I've heard your wheel may go out of true faster
    I suppose that's possible, but I haven't found it to be a particular issue in any of the disc brake bikes that I've worked on.

    I've found disc brakes to be much more "touchy" about being set up perfectly. There's not much adjustment difference between having almost no brakeing power and having really great brakeing power. But maybe that's just because I have so much less experience with disc brakes than with the various types of rim brakes.

  21. #21
    cab horn
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Toronto
    My Bikes
    1987 Bianchi Campione
    Posts
    28,292
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    Gonna have to disagree with you there.

    You'll fight forever with some of the cheap, old single pivot caliper brakes to keep both sides releasing equally. The cheaper linear pull brakes will drive you crazy too. How about the plastic spring retainers on Shimano canty brakes that crack and keep one arm from retracting properly?
    I won't argue the plastic spring retainers. After dealing with about 30 billion of those old single pivots, I can confidently say that most can probably be adjusted by bending the spring clip.

    But I do agree - effing annoying to adjust.
    Mes compaingnons cui j'amoie et cui j'aim,... Me di, chanson.

  22. #22
    Senior Member Winter76's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    The Peg
    Posts
    663
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I vote for any kind of brakes as long as they are properly adjusted.
    3 years commuting while there's no snow on the ground. 20km round trip.
    Quote Originally Posted by madfiNch
    What's the point of a bike if you can only ride it on weekends, and you can't even carry anything with you?!

  23. #23
    Pwnerer Wordbiker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
    My Bikes
    Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
    Posts
    2,878
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
    I've found disc brakes to be much more "touchy" about being set up perfectly. There's not much adjustment difference between having almost no brakeing power and having really great brakeing power. But maybe that's just because I have so much less experience with disc brakes than with the various types of rim brakes.
    This is true.

    Once you get the hang of tuning discs, there is nothing better. There's a reason the most powerful performance cars and motorcycles use discs: They work.
    Quote Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
    Ski, bike and wish I was gay.

  24. #24
    Videre non videri
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Gothenburg, Sweden
    My Bikes
    1 road bike (simple, light), 1 TT bike (could be more aero, could be lighter), 1 all-weather commuter and winter bike, 1 Monark 828E ergometer indoor bike
    Posts
    3,202
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by San Rensho
    What makes a good brake is the hand that actuates it. Every medium price+ brake I've come across, whether a centerpull or side pull or v-brake I've been able to get the back wheel to start to come up at maximum braking. The only exception are 3 spd bikes with steel rims. They just don't work well dry and don't work at all wet.

    Modern brakes have way more stopping power than most people are able to use. Disc brakes are the biggest overkill I've seen.
    Not true in wet weather. I've been in two dangerous situations where I suddenly had close to no braking power because of wet conditions. This with v-brakes using fairly new kool-stop salmon pads on alu rims.

    My commuter/rain bike will get an Avid BB7 front disc brake soon, to help with this problem. I have all the parts already, but have to finish building the wheel first. Started yesterday but didn't have time to finish it.

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    1,180
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Old Hammer Boy
    Not really, especially on a tandem. Good rims are expensive and discs don't wear out the rims. Discs help prevent tire blow-out by not putting heat into the rim. True, discs may be overkill on some bikes, but your generalization is not totally correct in all cases. We sure appreciate them on our tandem when coming down a mountain pass at 45+ MPH.
    Disc brakes on a tandem seem to make sense to me - you are riding a heavier, longer passage. I doubt you could flip yourself over the bars on a tandem. Obviously, too much rear brake could cause you to lose control.

    On these mountain passes, are you talking about wide smooth roadways or some sort of narrow path.

    If you let it all hang out, how what top speed would you attain, and, can you coast all the way down safely, or are there curves, stops, etc?

    Just curious.

    It's good that I don't live in an area with real mountain roads.

    Around here, there are two sections of road that I know of where just coasting downhill presents a challenge not to run off the road. Both have curves midway down the hill.

    One road I've mastered, but, the other one would either cast me off the road or whip me left into the opposing traffic lane - and, I am having none of that.

    Either type of brake is adequate on these relatively short but steep descents.

    I'd probably be dead if there were real mountain roads within my reach.

    I love speed.

    Actually hate brakes, but, they are an unfortunate necessity.

    Caruso

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •