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Old 06-05-11, 03:08 PM   #326
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Sounds like it helps you but wouldn't help me. I can install a tube quickly and easily, and I can't imagine anything making it quicker and easier. And no, you didn't sound sarcastic, so no worries there.
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Old 06-08-11, 04:13 AM   #327
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My understanding is that talc us an urban myth. It's a benign byproduct of the manufacturing, and at some point, cyclists thought that it's an improvement. I've never used it. Would I have fewer pinches if I used it? Well, that would be hard to measure, wouldn't it? I'd need to sample a whole lot of tube changes, with and without talc, and take a tally. In theory, if I know what I'm doing, I would never pinch a tube while installing it.
Talc does help with installation... keeps the tube and tyre from sticking and often helps with seating the bead on the rim.

Can install almost any tyre without it but through much experience prefer to use talc.

For really difficult installations I have a spray bottle with diluted soap which makes things very slippery and doubles as hand cleaner and is good for light clean ups as well.

Installed some Michelin Hi Lite folding tyres on my road bike this evening... would rate these as one of the more challenging mounting jobs I have done and as always, used talc.
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Old 06-08-11, 04:21 AM   #328
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In extreme cases I am sure these techniques would come in very handy. I find most times resorting to a vise type device isn't necessary. In my experience the force generated across one hand is all that is necessary. It is amazing how much force you can exert between you palm and fingers, as much or more than with your arms in many cases. So if you arrange the pedal wrench so that it is about 30 degrees (more or less) to the "tight" side of the crank arm (how many degress depends on how big your hands are) and grasp both the wrench and crank arm in the same hand or even both hands, you can usually squeeze the wrench toward the crank arm and loosen it even in very stuck situations just by "closing" your hand. Easier of course on the non-drive side where the chain rings don't get in the way. But this does work on both sides. Good luck.
Work on enough bikes and you will run into more challenging pedal removals than you would ever want to see... I service my pedals regularly and always ensure that every threaded interface gets a little anti seize so that when I, or someone else needs to take things apart extreme measures will not be needed.

Since pedals self tighten gorilla force is not needed to install them either.

Agree that your technique of using your hand strength is very effective and have had some very burly guys wonder how a small guy like me can break free fittings that they cannot budge.
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Old 06-09-11, 01:01 PM   #329
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Talc does help with installation... keeps the tube and tyre from sticking and often helps with seating the bead on the rim.
This is the only instance I use Talc, in the form of a cheap baby powder I bought at The Dollar Store.

I had found out that when I patch a tube, later I'll sometimes see the tube stick to the tire at the patch/tire contact. Now, after patching tubes, I'll dust that junction with baby powder, and no stickiness again.
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Old 06-14-11, 07:37 PM   #330
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Just found another handy tip, a popsicle (craft) stick is the perfect width to clean crud out from between you rear sprockets for 5-7 speed rear cogsets. I just sanded the right curve into the tip and it worked great. I don't have anything with more than seven rear sprockets but I suspect it would fit even narrower sprockets as there is still some free space. The sticks are just long enough to clean the big cogs without raking your fingers.
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Old 06-14-11, 07:58 PM   #331
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That's a neat tip Myosmith although Schwinn or Bell makes a $2.50 brush set you can buy at Walmart for the freewheels/cassettes.
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Old 06-17-11, 10:51 AM   #332
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The only brush set I've seen around here is the Park Tools set which is considerably more expensive. I've looked at a couple of Walmarts and other big box stores with no luck. The popsicle stick is more for removing mud, weeds, and assorted crud you pick up offroad or on bad unpaved roads. I ride a hybridized MTB so I gotta play in the rough sometimes.
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Old 06-17-11, 12:11 PM   #333
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My Ross Mt Hood doesn't see much off-road action any more. I live in a huge city with no place to ride at MTB without car-ing it for hours. So it's been converted to a comfort roadster and is basically a Raleigh sports with a 7-speed IGH. No need to pick non-existent grass out of a non-existent freewheel

But I used to live in WI and in the country. Did a lot of that at one time when the Mt. Hood was still a MTB.
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Old 06-26-11, 10:57 PM   #334
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bb pin spanner

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Old 07-04-11, 07:25 AM   #335
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Geez, 36 posts and nothing about making sure the beer is cold (& plentiful).

What's the wrenching world coming to..?
Its senses
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Old 07-09-11, 07:53 PM   #336
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Need something to prod, hammer, and cut stuff on your bike in your tool bag? Buy something that's designed to prod, hammer, and cut a barbed wire fence:

You can pick one up for $10 or so, but if you want something to take with you on a ride you may want to skip the internet and hold a few models because the weight can vary from "set of pliers" to "uranium slug."
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Old 07-09-11, 08:01 PM   #337
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I think a pair of 9" linesman's pliers would be more all-around handy for the bike (and everything else) than just a fence nipper. But that's because I've got a bit of linesman in me -being a commercial electrician. This is my main go-to tool in my tool pouch. It's a rare day when I'm not carrying one at work. Having one in my bike tools is only natural.
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Old 08-02-11, 11:45 AM   #338
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My left brake-shifter lever was chattering over rough pavement. I checked it out and found that the main lever (SRAM) was slack due to the brake pivot bolt sticking. The brake return spring was not pulling the lever taut. A little WD40 on the pivot bolt fixed it right up. Been experiencing some hard riding when everything should be normal. Probably due to the same cause, the brake pad not returning and dragging on the rim.
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Old 08-02-11, 12:21 PM   #339
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From another thread: you patched your tube, but the patch leaks? It wouldn't stick properly (or at all)?

I had a few patches that wouldn't stick. Then I learned to clean the tube around the puncture with alcohol, and since then, all patches lasted forever. If you don't have a little bottle with alcohol with you while riding, a solution might be a little packed wet tovel (like those you get in the plane). Make sure the area around the puncture is perfectly dry and, above all, without grease. Any amount of grease or dust will cause the patch not to stick.

Also, remember to wait for the glue (or "cement") to dry, before placing the patch over it, and then push on it like you're possessed.
I use a small spring loaded woodworking clamp to hold it together for a while. I like the towelette idea. In fact I'm going to put some into my tool kit now!
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Old 08-08-11, 06:53 AM   #340
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I use a small spring loaded woodworking clamp to hold it together for a while. I like the towelette idea. In fact I'm going to put some into my tool kit now!
Maybe better than towelettes and more like the original alcohol idea are the prepackaged alcohol swabs (tiny squares of gauze premoistened with rubbing alcohol for use in sterilizing the skin site for giving injections). They come in foil pouches about 1.5 inches square and are sold by the 100 at pharmacies. A couple of these would go along in your tool bag essentially unnoticed. But whichever of these you choose, it is also nice to have them along on a ride in the event of a crash and a case of road rash. Good to clean up the wound and sanitize it.
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Old 08-21-11, 02:44 PM   #341
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If you need to true your rims but dont have a truing stand, you can tape pennies to the inside of your chainstay and fork and true them on the bike without messing up your brake adjustment
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Old 08-28-11, 02:56 AM   #342
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If you need to buff off some rust off older bikes, try this.

If you've got an electric drill, take off the drill portion. Get some steel wool and wrap it around the spinning part of the drill. Leave some space so tape that you'll be wrapping around touched some of the actual drill. Cleans off rust like magic with minimal work. You can also expect less scratch marks if you use finer steel wool with this method rather than coarser steel wool by hand. Same time used, but less scratches.

However, on more expensive bikes or new parts, this isn't recommended.
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Old 09-15-11, 02:46 AM   #343
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Trouble getting the PowerLINK, PowerLOCK, Missing link, quick release link, etc off your chain by hand?

Try this: http://www.ctc.org.uk/resources/Magazine/201107050.pdf

I don't think this has been posted yet (because I've read this whole thread) but sorry if it has!
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Old 09-29-11, 07:26 AM   #344
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Just found another handy tip, a popsicle (craft) stick is the perfect width to clean crud out from between you rear sprockets for 5-7 speed rear cogsets. I just sanded the right curve into the tip and it worked great. I don't have anything with more than seven rear sprockets but I suspect it would fit even narrower sprockets as there is still some free space. The sticks are just long enough to clean the big cogs without raking your fingers.
A flap from a corrugated cardboard box works well for crud cleaning between cogs too.
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Old 09-30-11, 12:00 PM   #345
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When you're attaching your cleats to your shoes, especially with MTB shoes, fill the hex holes with melted wax (just drip it off a candle). Then, when it's time to tighten/adjust/replace your cleats all you have to do is melt the wax out with a lighter rather then spend 10mins chipping out 2 years worth of well packed clay.
Brilliant!!
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Old 10-23-11, 11:43 PM   #346
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Wheel building-Dropped the wrench!

When building wheels, keep a couple alligator clips on hand. We've all dropped the spoke wrench, answered the phone, or checked out the MILF walking past the window only to discover the wheel has rotated in the stand while your eyes were diverted, and you have lost track of which spoke you were working on. As soon as you drop the spoke wrench, attach the clip to the exact spoke you were working on. Then you can take your eyes off the wheel, find the wrench, and if the wheel has rotated in the stand, you just find the spoke with the clip attached, and you haven't lost your place. The clip also works well for detecting spoke twist.
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Old 10-24-11, 07:05 AM   #347
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When building wheels, keep a couple alligator clips on hand. We've all dropped the spoke wrench, answered the phone, or checked out the MILF walking past the window only to discover the wheel has rotated in the stand while your eyes were diverted, and you have lost track of which spoke you were working on. As soon as you drop the spoke wrench, attach the clip to the exact spoke you were working on. Then you can take your eyes off the wheel, find the wrench, and if the wheel has rotated in the stand, you just find the spoke with the clip attached, and you haven't lost your place. The clip also works well for detecting spoke twist.
Bravo! I have always used masking tape "flags" for both indexing the spoke that I was working on and detecting spoke twist. The alligator clip is much simpler, not as messy, and easier to apply remove. Thanks.
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Old 10-25-11, 12:50 AM   #348
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Bravo! I have always used masking tape "flags" for both indexing the spoke that I was working on and detecting spoke twist. The alligator clip is much simpler, not as messy, and easier to apply remove. Thanks.
I started with masking tape on every spoke, but after rubbing my fingernails raw removing the tape and the residue, I vowed, "Never again". I mostly use the clip only when I have to take my eyes off the wheel. Using it on every spoke as I turn can be a pain repeatedly attaching and removing. I now use a black felt tip to mark the spokes at a spot directly on the line of site to detect twist in the initial phases of building when you're turning each spoke to get it up to tension. Cleans up easy with a rag and alcohol. Once tension is up and I'm making small adjustments to scattered spokes, I'll use the clip.
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Old 10-31-11, 08:51 AM   #349
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I started with masking tape on every spoke, but after rubbing my fingernails raw removing the tape and the residue, I vowed, "Never again". I mostly use the clip only when I have to take my eyes off the wheel. Using it on every spoke as I turn can be a pain repeatedly attaching and removing. I now use a black felt tip to mark the spokes at a spot directly on the line of site to detect twist in the initial phases of building when you're turning each spoke to get it up to tension. Cleans up easy with a rag and alcohol. Once tension is up and I'm making small adjustments to scattered spokes, I'll use the clip.
Thanks. That is a good overall plan. Another positive for the felt tip marking is that you can place the mark up close to the nipple where the twist is most extreme and really see it well. I always found with the masking tape that I had to place it close to the hub to keep from interfering with the spoke wrench. Worked okay, but the twist is less down there than at the top. I appreciate the advice.
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Old 11-13-11, 03:49 PM   #350
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Shake n Bake your inner tubes. Well, OK, don't bake them but put them in a gallon ziplock bag with a small amount of talc, seal the bag and give it a good shake in several directions. Carefully pull the tube out of the bag tapping the excess talc back into the bag as you go. Viola, a perfectly powdered tube ready for installation with no mess, no dust in the air, on the floor, or on you. Wastes a lot less talc than trying to powder the tube by hand and you can save the talc in the bag for another tube.
i just puff a bit of talc into the tire on the wheel, then rotate and shake, just seems a little easier to me !
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