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  1. #376
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    That really is the hard way.

    I tie a loop in some red nylon binder twine, about in a 20cm Diameter circle.

    Then double over the loop and loop that around the tire/wheel whatever and loop it through itself.

    Hang the twine around a nail or hook in the rafters/ceiling.

    Done.

    Red binder twine costs about $20 for a mile of the stuff -lasts a lifetime and is plastic so it doesn't hold moisture much. It won't hurt the rim or tire or whatever you are hanging from it.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  2. #377
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    Yakima rack bars are 1-1/8 od and electrical EMT thin wall 1" size have the same OD. I made some 92" for mine .10' section is less than $5 & a78" yak bar is about $40+
    they are plenty strong as long as you don't hang a bike out over 20" passed the tower!

    Cheers

  3. #378
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    Zip ties, stash them everywhere oh and safety pins

  4. #379
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hopslam View Post
    Yakima rack bars are 1-1/8 od and electrical EMT thin wall 1" size have the same OD. I made some 92" for mine .10' section is less than $5 & a78" yak bar is about $40+
    they are plenty strong as long as you don't hang a bike out over 20" passed the tower!

    Cheers
    EMT is quite malleable -to increase the PSI needed to deform and bend them fill them with "great stuff" self-expanding foam. It doesn't add much weight but makes them about 2x as resistant to bending as the foam needs to deform inside the conduit in order to allow the pipe to bend and the tightly-packed stuff does a good job of resisting deformation.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  5. #380
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    That really is the hard way.

    I tie a loop in some red nylon binder twine, about in a 20cm Diameter circle.

    Then double over the loop and loop that around the tire/wheel whatever and loop it through itself.

    Hang the twine around a nail or hook in the rafters/ceiling.

    Done.

    Red binder twine costs about $20 for a mile of the stuff -lasts a lifetime and is plastic so it doesn't hold moisture much. It won't hurt the rim or tire or whatever you are hanging from it.
    I can't picture this. Can you shoot a picture for me?
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  6. #381
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    I can't picture this. Can you shoot a picture for me?
    Sure, Tom!

    Here are some tires and a rim that are on my project list in my shop. Usually I will hang each tire or wheel up individually but these are grouped by project here. Out in my garage I've got dozens of wheels and tires hung up like this from the rafters. It keeps them organized and up off the ground.





    The next time I dig into my garage I should take a picture of all the stuff I've got hanging like this. It's quick and easy to loop them up. All you need is a bunch of twine and some nails or hooks.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  7. #382
    Senior Member w98seeng's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    That really is the hard way.

    I tie a loop in some red nylon binder twine, about in a 20cm Diameter circle.

    Then double over the loop and loop that around the tire/wheel whatever and loop it through itself.

    Hang the twine around a nail or hook in the rafters/ceiling.

    Done.

    Red binder twine costs about $20 for a mile of the stuff -lasts a lifetime and is plastic so it doesn't hold moisture much. It won't hurt the rim or tire or whatever you are hanging from it.
    Why is it the hard way? you have to use a hammer to put in a nail, I use an impact driver to put in two small screws. It takes less time than to tie the string.

    Your way, when you want one tire, you have to take them all down, unwrap the string then put the rest back up. Me, I just pull down the wheel I want. But the point is moot, because your way is for tires, mine is for wheels.

    Ian

  8. #383
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    An old guy told me if your chain breaks while you are out tie it together with a lace and pedal then back pedal then pedal and so on till you get home.
    I have never had to do it but you never know.Another tip he gave me was if you get a puncture you can't fix put the tire beads around the outside of the rim
    and you can get home almost as quickly as normal.I have done this and it does work but not kind to the rim or tire.

  9. #384
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blamester View Post
    An old guy told me if your chain breaks while you are out tie it together with a lace and pedal then back pedal then pedal and so on till you get home.
    I have never had to do it but you never know.Another tip he gave me was if you get a puncture you can't fix put the tire beads around the outside of the rim
    and you can get home almost as quickly as normal.I have done this and it does work but not kind to the rim or tire.
    Or you could just take the 2 extra links in your tool kit and your portable chain-breaker on your multi-tool and just fix the chain

    Just sayin'
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  10. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    Or you could just take the 2 extra links in your tool kit and your portable chain-breaker on your multi-tool and just fix the chain

    Just sayin'
    He was talking about coming from a dance late at night in the forties with a girl on the cross bar.Bit like i've run out of gas baby How will we keep warm?

  11. #386
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    Teflon plumbers tape on derailuer set screws that wont stay put

  12. #387
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    Handlebar and frame protection tape

    I have used 3M electrical tape for handlebar wrap jobs and protecting frames in various places in the past, but I had some of this stuff laying around and I thought "why not?". It is EPR tape, which has no adhesive. You stretch it around objects and it fuses to itself. It works great! It doesn't leave any sticky residue on cork tape, handlebars (if you use it to tie the brake cables) or on the frame--you just peel or cut it off and it's only stuck to itself. It holds its place by the pressure of the wrapping. It is slightly tacky-feeling at first (why I wouldn't wrap the entire handlebars in it) but I have used the same tape to wrap handles of other things and can report that the tackiness wears off over time. And as a bonus, it will protect you from up to 22,000 volts if you ever ride your bike into an electrical substation. Disadvantage is it's kind of expensive.

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#epr-rubber-tape/=i3y3ho

    eprtape.png

  13. #388
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    +1 The self-fusing tape is pretty darn cool but it is darn expensive like you said -and not as easy to find. It's also harder to work with. You can find it at any electrical wholesale house though -not just McMaster Carr.


    Here is an old electrician's trick to non-sticky electrical tape: Wrap it BACKWARDS (sticky side up) on the bar first -or whatever you are wrapping it around. Then wrap it again forward over the top of that. Make a tape sandwich with the stuff and the sticky stuff in the middle. Don't stretch it too much and it will stay put -or at least the nicer 3M super 33+ rubbery stuff will stay put. The cheaper vinyl tape is more slippery and will tend to migrate and slide around, but the good stuff will tack down and grip with the backside just as well as the self-fusing tape. And if you ever want to take it back off all you need to do is cut it carefully with an exacto knife from the inside out and it will cleanly come off without leaving a sticky mess beneath. Smart electricians back-wrap split-bolts and other large wire joints first so they can re-use the fastener someday when they take it apart instead of having a sticky gooey mess.

    Make sure you don't over-stretch it as it will want to stretch back and pull and make a mess. And cut it at the end with a scissors carefully nice and straight. Don't just yank and tear it. That makes a crappy wrinkly end that will pull back up.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  14. #389
    Sir Fallalot wroomwroomoops's Avatar
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    My issue with self-vulcanizing tape is that it tends to deform and becomes loose shortly after you put it on, and then it stays like that forever. Maybe I'm using the wrong brand.

  15. #390
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    I can see that happening with the brand I'm using. I think it just takes a lot of extra care before it fully cures/fuses to not loosen or wrinkle the cut edge. I have used it for a long time on handles of other things without any deformation.

    Quote Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
    My issue with self-vulcanizing tape is that it tends to deform and becomes loose shortly after you put it on, and then it stays like that forever. Maybe I'm using the wrong brand.

  16. #391
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    That really is the hard way.
    Totally depends on whether you occasionally hang up a pair of wheels, or if you're always doing it. In a shop, your way is the hard way and the broom holders are well worth the effort of installation.

  17. #392
    Senior Member cmcanulty's Avatar
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    I cut short lengths of innertubes and pull them over handlebar grips. Gives extra padding and keeps grips like new. When they get grungy just toss and replace.Use thornless tubes for extra cushioning. Bike shops will give away old tubes.

  18. #393
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    Excellent tip. I'll remember that one and hope I never have to use it. Thanks again.

  19. #394
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    Smart Tip! I'll remember this and hope I don't have to use it.

  20. #395
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    Great tips,
    Thanks

  21. #396
    Commuter Animal mike_khad1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by llalagen View Post
    when installing a tube make sure that the valve is in the middle of the largest label on the side of the tire... "it looks professional and will help you to locate the source of flats" - the art of wheelbuilding
    I have been installing the valve stem where the max tire pressure is stamped. I can still locate the source of flats but now when me or the owner is checking tire pressure, the max and minimums are right where the valve stem is.
    Last edited by mike_khad1; 07-31-12 at 05:55 PM.
    Michael

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  22. #397
    just a guy with a bike
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    Grip removal: Use an air compressor with a blow *** to remove MTB or BMX grips without destroying them. Works best if you have a blow *** with a long nozzle.

    Brake adjustment: For setting v brakes and u brakes without a third hand tool use a woodworking clamp to lock the brake pads against the rim. Insert thin cardboard scraps as shims between the brake pad and the rim if you want to create a perfect fit the first time. The $3 clamp/spreaders with the nylon covers that Harbor Freight often gives away work really great for this.

  23. #398
    Cottered Crank Amesja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattblast View Post
    Grip removal: Use an air compressor with a blow *** to remove MTB or BMX grips without destroying them. Works best if you have a blow *** with a long nozzle.
    Another way to get grips off -especially old vintage grips that have "glued" themselves to the bars over time is to use Tri-Flow.

    I take a long small control-wiring flat screwdriver to carefully insert into the front of the grip and slide back under it. Then I put the long red straw of the Tri-Flow in next to the screwdriver shaft as far back into the grip as I can and squirt in the oil. If you can do this 2-3 more times around the diameter of the grip you can pretty much get most of the grip lubricated. Then it is a simple matter to carefully work and twist the grip until it breaks free and just slides off.

    Soak the oily grip in a pan o blue Dawn detergent and the Tri-Flow washes right off and you are left with a good undamaged vintage grip that is ready to be re-installed later.
    '74 Raleigh Carlton Competition w/ Ultegra | '97 Trek 720 Singletrack CX-er w/ 105 | '64 Raleigh LTD-3 modernized w/ all alloy components |'69 Raleigh Twenty | '54 Raleigh Sports

  24. #399
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    The screwdriver and lube trick is pretty obvious, done it a zillion times... but that compressor trick is a bloody beauty.

    As for third hands... not worth the trouble if you're good enough with two.

  25. #400
    Sir Fallalot wroomwroomoops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Amesja View Post
    Another way to get grips off -especially old vintage grips that have "glued" themselves to the bars over time is to use Tri-Flow.

    I take a long small control-wiring flat screwdriver to carefully insert into the front of the grip and slide back under it. Then I put the long red straw of the Tri-Flow in next to the screwdriver shaft as far back into the grip as I can and squirt in the oil. If you can do this 2-3 more times around the diameter of the grip you can pretty much get most of the grip lubricated. Then it is a simple matter to carefully work and twist the grip until it breaks free and just slides off.

    Soak the oily grip in a pan o blue Dawn detergent and the Tri-Flow washes right off and you are left with a good undamaged vintage grip that is ready to be re-installed later.
    MUCH better to do this with alcohol (ethanol or iso-propanol, doesn't matter). In fact, by far the simplest solution is to use a syringe with a long enough needle to inject a bit of alcohol between the grip and the handlebar. Once you've removed the grip, the alcohol will quickly evaporate.

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