Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 08-20-07, 07:50 AM   #26
El Julioso
Bikes are good
 
El Julioso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Canada
Bikes: 2000 Schwinn Moab 1, heavily modified
Posts: 111
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by halfspeed View Post
It's a good idea to keep bearings and screws in a container, like an old ash tray, so they don't roll away.
I use a Park Tool MB-1 for this purpose. It's a bowl with a very strong magnet attached (strong enough to magnetize your tools if you so desire). You can throw it across the room with a load of bearings in it and they won't go anywhere
El Julioso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 08:53 AM   #27
Trek75
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Bikes:
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by El Julioso View Post
I use a Park Tool MB-1 for this purpose. It's a bowl with a very strong magnet attached (strong enough to magnetize your tools if you so desire). You can throw it across the room with a load of bearings in it and they won't go anywhere
You can get magnetic parts bowls at Sears in a couple of different sizes, sometimes for $10 or so if they're having a sale. Don't know how I ever got along without one!
Trek75 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 10:11 AM   #28
Road_Biker
Goggles & Doo-rag ready!
 
Road_Biker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Hampton Roads, VA
Bikes:
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Clean the bicycle really well before work is done. Take the time to wash (and maybe even wax) the bike. It's time well spent.
Road_Biker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 03:59 PM   #29
twobikes
Healthy and active
 
twobikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Caldwell, Idaho USA
Bikes: mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
Posts: 887
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
When your tire with Schrader valve goes flat overnight seemingly for no reason, check to see if the valve core is not tight in the stem. Do this before removing the wheel from the bike and taking the tire off.
twobikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 04:04 PM   #30
twobikes
Healthy and active
 
twobikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Caldwell, Idaho USA
Bikes: mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
Posts: 887
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
You put your seat back onto your bike and eyeballed it to get it straight, but when you ride the nose of the seat rubs one leg more than the other. When you put the seat back on, pull a piece of string taught from the center rear of the seat to the center of your stearer tube. This is much more precise than eyeballing it.
twobikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 04:09 PM   #31
twobikes
Healthy and active
 
twobikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Caldwell, Idaho USA
Bikes: mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
Posts: 887
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I had some heavy wheel bearing grease from the days when an automobile required the owner to repack the front wheel bearings periodically. I stirred a little motor oil into the grease until it was the right consistency for bicycle wheel bearings.
twobikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 04:26 PM   #32
trich
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Bikes:
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
When replacing a flat, or just putting a tire together, rubbing talc powder in the tire will help prevent pinch flats.

Also, when putting a tire back on the rim, spraying the outside of the rim and the outside of the sidewall with Windex (or another quickly-evaporating liquid) will make your tire tool run more smoothly as you fit the tire back on.

When lacing a wheel, if you find that the second side spokes are too short/long (and you calculated the appropriate length beforehand), the initial spoke on the 2nd side is either in the wrong hole (hub or rim end), or facing the wrong direction.

Small clicks/rubs/etc that happen once per revolution aren't necessarily the drive train. Check your shoe laces, clip straps, tool pouch, streamers, computer to make sure you aren't hitting it.

If you are trying to take a cassette off, the easiest way is to mount the cassette/freewheel tool in a bench vice, place the wheel on the tool, and turn the wheel (like the steering wheel on a school bus).

When tightening pedals, you can use the crank arm and the wrench to make a fulcrum - this gives you great leverage.
trich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 06:06 PM   #33
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by trich View Post
When replacing a flat, or just putting a tire together, rubbing talc powder in the tire will help prevent pinch flats.


And if you don't have talk, you can use cocoa powder- tested, and it works. Be it talk, or cocoa powder, I'd recommend rubbing it onto the tube. It's just simpler to do it evenly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trich View Post
When tightening pedals, you can use the crank arm and the wrench to make a fulcrum - this gives you great leverage.
To increase the torx on the wrench (sometimes necessary when removing pedals that are stuck (in which case some WD-40 or teflon oil will help, too)), you can use a much bigger (about 24 mm or more) box-end wrench (USA) or ring spanner (UK) - put the end of the first wrench into the ring of the bigger.

Last edited by wroomwroomoops; 08-27-07 at 10:04 AM.
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 06:09 PM   #34
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Do clean the wheel, especially the tire, before replacing or fixing/patching a tube. If you have the opportunity, wash it with with water, even. This will hopefully prevent dirt and debris to get inside the tire, which then may cause unexplained flats later on.
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 06:33 PM   #35
I_bRAD
Call me The Breeze
 
I_bRAD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Corbyville Ontario
Bikes: 2004 Litespeed Siena, 1996 Litespeed Obed, 1992 Miele (unknown model), 1982 Meile Uno LS.
Posts: 3,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by trich View Post

When tightening pedals, you can use the crank arm and the wrench to make a fulcrum - this gives you great leverage.
Yeah, way more leverage than you need to tighten pedals! This technique is pretty useful for tightening the crank bolt though
I_bRAD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-07, 06:34 PM   #36
I_bRAD
Call me The Breeze
 
I_bRAD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Corbyville Ontario
Bikes: 2004 Litespeed Siena, 1996 Litespeed Obed, 1992 Miele (unknown model), 1982 Meile Uno LS.
Posts: 3,699
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by twobikes View Post
You put your seat back onto your bike and eyeballed it to get it straight, but when you ride the nose of the seat rubs one leg more than the other. When you put the seat back on, pull a piece of string taught from the center rear of the seat to the center of your stearer tube. This is much more precise than eyeballing it.
Nice one
I_bRAD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 04:47 PM   #37
rmfnla
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Posts: 6,049
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Geez, 36 posts and nothing about making sure the beer is cold (& plentiful).

What's the wrenching world coming to..?
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 07:06 PM   #38
twobikes
Healthy and active
 
twobikes's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Caldwell, Idaho USA
Bikes: mid-60's Dunelt 10-speed, Specialized Allez Sport Tripple, Trek 7.2 FX
Posts: 887
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The pin in my chain tool comes out and I could easily lose it. I always keep the tool and its pin in a sandwich bag.

I have a generic crank removal tool. I tried a small square of steel to keep the plunger from pushing into the threads for the crank bolt. My preference is a short piece of steel rod cut to length so its end protrudes a millimeter or so beyond the threads when inserted in the bolt hole. The diameter of the rod all but fills the hole for the bolt.

If you are confused about whether something, like a pedal, is right hand or left hand thread; just think about whether friction from its natural rotation in use would tighten or loosen the threads. Designers always make machinery so bolts naturally tighten a bit in use. No one wants their stuff falling apart for no good reason.

The binding collar from a rear reflector or a taillight is just enough to keep a slipping seat post from sliding down during a ride. Mount it just above the seat post collar.

Winter clothing with wicking properties is a lot cheaper in a common sporting goods department than at most bicycle supply houses.

Cotton Jersey gloves inside a larger than necessary pair of leather gloves keep hands warm in many winter termperatures.

Plastic food bags over your socks before you put your shoes on hold in a bit of extra warmth for your feet in the winter.

If you lose the instruction sheet or manual for a piece of equipment, it is probably available as a download somewhere on the Internet. Look at some catalogs. You may even see your unit with a different brand name on it. The manual may be available under the different brand name. My Schwinn cyclometer is also marketed as an Ascent. I was able to download a manaul for an Ascent that even looks exactly like my Schwinn manual.

WD-40 on a rag cleans up many greasy things on a bicycle.

An air tank is a great way to inflate bicycle tires. Just pump the tank up the the required pressure and there is no guessing about when the tire is at the proper pressure. Most air tanks have a pressure gauge on them.

For extra safety at night, cut some reflective tape to fit parts of your helmet and apply it. Some reflective tape is silver, not just red. (Some helmets claim adhesives could change the chemical composition of the protective material, but mine has not changed.)

Put a label on your helmet or your bike that gives your name, address, phone, blood type, and a contact number in case you are knocked unconscious in a crash.

When a bare brake cable flutters against the frame it makes a distracting noise. Get a piece of automotive vacuum hose an inch long. Slice it lengthwise in a spiral pattern. Wrap it around the cable near the middle of its run and tape the hose to the frame tube.
twobikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 07:24 PM   #39
Wordbiker
Pwnerer
 
Wordbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
Bikes: Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
Posts: 2,907
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If your beer gets warm, fill a tray with ice and water, add a good amount of salt and then spin the cans or bottles in the tray. Icy cold in just a few minutes.

Better yet, just ride to the brewery.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
Ski, bike and wish I was gay.
Wordbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 07:32 PM   #40
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,921
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 96 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by twobikes View Post
If you are confused about whether something, like a pedal, is right hand or left hand thread; just think about whether friction from its natural rotation in use would tighten or loosen the threads. Designers always make machinery so bolts naturally tighten a bit in use. No one wants their stuff falling apart for no good reason.
Thinking about this "logically" will lead you to the wrong conclusion. For example, English drive-side bottom bracket cups loosen by turning clockwise and the drive-side crank and spindle also turn clockwise so you would conclude the cranking motion would loosen them. Obviously it doesn't.

What you have to realize is that while the crank is turning clockwise the bearing balls inside are rotating the opposite way and that motion tends to keep the cup tight.
HillRider is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 10:48 PM   #41
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
There's a noise while turning the handlebars, but it isn't the headset. In fact, you're not even on the bike, and yet, there's still noise when the handlebars turn.

One possible source could be the brake cables rubbing against each other. And a possible solution is to apply a very little bit of chain oil where the cables touch.

Last edited by wroomwroomoops; 08-22-07 at 06:41 PM.
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 10:57 PM   #42
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
From another thread: you patched your tube, but the patch leaks? It wouldn't stick properly (or at all)?

I had a few patches that wouldn't stick. Then I learned to clean the tube around the puncture with alcohol, and since then, all patches lasted forever. If you don't have a little bottle with alcohol with you while riding, a solution might be a little packed wet tovel (like those you get in the plane). Make sure the area around the puncture is perfectly dry and, above all, without grease. Any amount of grease or dust will cause the patch not to stick.

Also, remember to wait for the glue (or "cement") to dry, before placing the patch over it, and then push on it like you're possessed.
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-07, 11:33 PM   #43
MattP.
Obeying Gravity
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Bellingham, WA
Bikes:
Posts: 2,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If it's stuck, get the Dremel.
MattP. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 01:24 AM   #44
Wordbiker
Pwnerer
 
Wordbiker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Pagosa Springs, CO, USA
Bikes: Road, MTB, Cruiser, Chopper, BMX
Posts: 2,907
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you're stuck on a plane, those little bottles of alcohol can lubricate you to a happy state.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by ahsposo View Post
Ski, bike and wish I was gay.
Wordbiker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 07:22 AM   #45
trich
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Bikes:
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
There's a noise while turning the handlebars, but it isn't the headset.

One possible source could be the brake cables rubbing against each other. And a possible solution is to apply a very little bit of chain oil where the cables touch.
This could also be improperly tensioned spokes on the front wheel. For me, it was more of a feeling or vibration coming up through the bike, but there was definitely a noise associated with it, too.
trich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 07:25 AM   #46
trich
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: St. Louis, MO
Bikes:
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattP. View Post
If it's stuck, get the Dremel.
or the "blue wrench"
trich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 07:35 AM   #47
wroomwroomoops
Sir Fallalot
Thread Starter
 
wroomwroomoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Helsinki, Finland
Bikes:
Posts: 5,275
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by trich View Post
This could also be improperly tensioned spokes on the front wheel. For me, it was more of a feeling or vibration coming up through the bike, but there was definitely a noise associated with it, too.
Improperly tensioned spokes usually make a noise easily recognisable, because it's periodic - at every turn of the wheel. Not saying your case is not possible, just that there's another symptom to it, too.

Besides, in the example I cited, there doesn't need to be any weight on the handlebars and front wheel, the noise will still be produced. So, there are various ways to distinguish "my" case from "yours".

Last edited by wroomwroomoops; 08-22-07 at 06:41 PM.
wroomwroomoops is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 12:41 PM   #48
Metaluna
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Soma Double Cross Disc
Posts: 914
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by twobikes View Post
You put your seat back onto your bike and eyeballed it to get it straight, but when you ride the nose of the seat rubs one leg more than the other. When you put the seat back on, pull a piece of string taught from the center rear of the seat to the center of your stearer tube. This is much more precise than eyeballing it.

If the saddle has an ergonomic split, you can just lay a broomstick in the groove and line it up with the steerer, or kneel behind the bike and sight down the centerline of the groove until it's centered on the steerer (this might also work using the seat rails as a guide...I'm not sure)
Metaluna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 05:42 PM   #49
raleigh_fan
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: North Carolina
Bikes: 1970 Raleigh Record (daily rider), 1967 Raleigh Sports, 1973 Motobecane Mirage (commuter)
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hints and tricks thread (hopefully)

My tip: WD-40 is a Water Displacer, not a penetrating oil. For stuck parts, get some Kroil or PB B'Laster.
raleigh_fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-07, 06:07 PM   #50
rmfnla
Senior Member
 
rmfnla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Posts: 6,049
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 156 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Thinking about this "logically" will lead you to the wrong conclusion. For example, English drive-side bottom bracket cups loosen by turning clockwise and the drive-side crank and spindle also turn clockwise so you would conclude the cranking motion would loosen them. Obviously it doesn't.

What you have to realize is that while the crank is turning clockwise the bearing balls inside are rotating the opposite way and that motion tends to keep the cup tight.
No.

A rotating shaft (pedal axle, BB spindle) exhibits orbital motion in the direction opposite to its rotation.

If the balls are generating enough friction to affect a properly tightened pedal or BB someone needs to learn how to adjust bearings.
__________________
Today, I believe my jurisdiction ends here...
rmfnla is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:04 AM.