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  1. #501
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    Are you kidding us? How, pray tell, did you come to know this?
    No joke, it works. I was working with my uncle, a master mechanic at a Honda dealer, and we were installing a new exhaust on my car. There were a couple bolts that needed threadlocker. He used Maalox around the threads of the bolt and the threads of the part it went in, and explained it worked just as well as Loctite (not permanent Loctite, mind you. This is only for something you may remove later, it prevents corrosion and thus keeps a bolt from rusting onto the nut). If you require the part to never move again after the threadlocker has been applied, use the genuine article and not antacid.
    May the road rise to meet you, and may you never throw a chain.

  2. #502
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I now own two tubes of blue threadlocker, so it might be a while before i try maalox, but that's fun to know.

    I also own a tube of red and am afraid to use it. i don't even know why i bought it.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  3. #503
    Senior Member jack002's Avatar
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    Maalox is used to replace ANTISEIZE and not threadlocker as I understand it. A tip I heard on a car rebuild show on TV said it.

    Look here. Lots of evedence
    https://www.google.com/search?num=30....0.oXE10Rok6JI
    Biking isn't a sport because anybody can do it. I can bike, you can bike. For goodness sakes, my mother can bike! You don't see her on the cover of Sports Illustrated, do you?

  4. #504
    Home School Valedictorian 02Giant's Avatar
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    I am not sure where I seen it on this forum, there was a suggestion to tie a knot in a punctured tube if caught without a spare. I tried this a couple of weeks ago, I was out early one morning before work getting a quick ride in, when I crossed a gravel road too fast, snake bit both tubes, only had one spare with me. It save me the mile and a half hike back.
    We've got no fear, no doubt, all in balls out

  5. #505
    Sir Fallalot wroomwroomoops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Giant View Post
    I am not sure where I seen it on this forum, there was a suggestion to tie a knot in a punctured tube if caught without a spare. I tried this a couple of weeks ago, I was out early one morning before work getting a quick ride in, when I crossed a gravel road too fast, snake bit both tubes, only had one spare with me. It save me the mile and a half hike back.
    That's actually quite interesting. What size tube/tire did you ride? How exactly is the knot positioned? Tell us more.

    This is all the more interesting because it's a snakebite puncture - i.e. two holes per tube.

  6. #506
    elcraft
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    Quote Originally Posted by southpier View Post
    does anyone use beeswax instead of loctite? or for anything else?
    Beeswax wont lock treads like Locktite; it is easily disolved by dozens of chemicals or heat. But it is very useful for " sticking" screws onto screwdrivers or any fastener onto a tool so the fastener can be "started" in a difficult place or situation. This especially useful when one can't use a magnetized tool to hold the fastener to the tool (i.e., proximity to electronics or non-ferous materials).

  7. #507
    Home School Valedictorian 02Giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
    That's actually quite interesting. What size tube/tire did you ride? How exactly is the knot positioned? Tell us more.

    This is all the more interesting because it's a snakebite puncture - i.e. two holes per tube.
    The tube in question was from a 700 x 20, I haven't tossed the tube yet and will post a pic of it, once tied into a knot it is a bit tricky to get the tube back around the rim.

    I was surprised how well it worked, could not feel the knot as it rolled. I am not sure how long it held air, the next morning it was flat.
    We've got no fear, no doubt, all in balls out

  8. #508
    Senior Member ctpres's Avatar
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    Small chip in cf white paint. Dab of white nail polish and done. Did same to black paint on old al bike
    Retired 75 YO. Got my sub 5 ET century at 50 and sub 7 RT at 75. Just want to finish at 80. USNR, USAF, USCGA - riding 2014 Zenetto Steath ZR7.1 Carbon

  9. #509
    Sir Fallalot wroomwroomoops's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 02Giant View Post
    The tube in question was from a 700 x 20, I haven't tossed the tube yet and will post a pic of it, once tied into a knot it is a bit tricky to get the tube back around the rim.

    I was surprised how well it worked, could not feel the knot as it rolled. I am not sure how long it held air, the next morning it was flat.
    I'm going to try this trick (eventually). If it works, holy ****, really nice!
    Yeah, do put a picture up.

  10. #510
    Home School Valedictorian 02Giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
    I'm going to try this trick (eventually). If it works, holy ****, really nice!
    Yeah, do put a picture up.
    It took me a while to get the pic posted...this is how it was reinstalled, couldn't feel the knot at all as it rotated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    We've got no fear, no doubt, all in balls out

  11. #511
    Sir Fallalot wroomwroomoops's Avatar
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    Great, thanks a lot! But... that doesn't look like 700Cx20. Actually, 700Cx20 are usually sew-ups. What is the width of the tire, exactly? Did you mean 2" ?

  12. #512
    Home School Valedictorian 02Giant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
    Great, thanks a lot! But... that doesn't look like 700Cx20. Actually, 700Cx20 are usually sew-ups. What is the width of the tire, exactly? Did you mean 2" ?
    The wheelset was borrowed from my brother for a mountain climb, I am 99% sure the size on the sidewall of the tire was 700 x 20, they are narrower than the 23's I typically ride.

    I will check though, I haven't returned them yet. He commented when loaned to me that they were really hard to find tires.


    Checked the tires, they are Continental Grand Prix Super Sonic in 700 x 20c
    Last edited by 02Giant; 08-20-14 at 07:38 PM. Reason: additional info
    We've got no fear, no doubt, all in balls out

  13. #513
    Junior Member PORTERPOUNDER's Avatar
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    My number 1 tip for all problems with a bike repair... RELAX. I heard somewhere (I cant remember where) that when we are angry that I.Q. can drop by 30 points. This true in my case cause I will forget the layout of my garage or otherwise just do stupid things that don't help my situation. So if something is getting on your nerves then its time to take a breath and come back to it with a clear head.
    I don't know if it's illegal to ride a bike and be so handsome at the same time but whatever, I live dangerously.

  14. #514
    Keepin it Wheel RubeRad's Avatar
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    Good point. Relax, and also don't rush, be methodical about putting tools down, and you won't have any problems finding them when you go to pick them up again.

  15. #515
    Senior Member woodcraft's Avatar
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    I tried hot melt glue to replace zip ties holding the computer wheel sensor & cable.

    So-so results, especially the slippery cable.

    Now got double stick mounting tape on the sensor, & small strips of clear packing tape on the wire.

    Much cleaner look than zip ties, & can't slip down the tapered fork.

  16. #516
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    I'm a newb to this forum, but been lurking and read this whole thread...good info and tricks. I've heard about the Maalox trick as a sub for antiseize as well.

    For cleaning my brushed finish TI Litespeed I've found that auto spray quick detailer on a microfiber cloth is the best. Leaves no residue and removes the grease, grime, fingerprints and other yucky bits in a flash. Dries quickly leaving no spots. It should work well on painted frames too, since it was developed for auto finishes.


    Mark

  17. #517
    Senior Member Nycycle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
    Another tip: if you find yourself cycling in some place in Africa, Indonesia etc. temporarily without access to good lubricants for your bike components, be it chain or bearings, you can use coconut oil. It will work fine for all the components that need lubing (usually it's the chain to cause these emergencies) and it's impervious to peroxidation. (in fact, coconut oil, virgin or refined, has the lowest peroxidation index of all organic non-mineral oils). In other words, it won't get rancid for a very long time.

    It's less than ideal in very cold climates, but in the above example that's not a problem.
    It makes excellent chamois cream.
    I hate cars,

  18. #518
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    I think furniture polish in a spray can is the same as auto detailer, and I think it costs less. I'm using Endust, and you can use Pledge, too.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  19. #519
    Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    I think furniture polish in a spray can is the same as auto detailer, and I think it costs less. I'm using Endust, and you can use Pledge, too.
    noglider,

    Don't want to get into a flame war here, but furniture polish IME has oils and waxes intended to treat wood surfaces. Pledge does have a new product called "Pledge Multi Surface". They claim it's good for all surfaces, even electronics. Contents are not much more than a surfactant and alcohol...Windex under a new label? I've not used it and have not looked for it at my local big box.

    Was just saying, I've used auto quick detailer on my car and truck, which both have clear coat finishes for ten years now. No scratches for quick spot clean ups, easy to use, leaves no residue and doesn't remove the wax on a waxed vehicle. Tried it on my Litespeed and was very happy with how it worked on that application as well.

    Also, I would prefer to use a product developed for use on metals and paint on my bicycle. Since so little product is used cleaning my bicycle and it's in the garage I'm not concerned with the cost, but YMMV.

    Respectfully,
    Mark

  20. #520
    aka Tom Reingold noglider's Avatar
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    No disrespect taken! The stuff I'm using seems to be wax, and it seems to be doing a good job. It makes cleaning easier than anything else I've ever used.
    You don't read my signature anyway, do you?

    Tom Reingold, noglider@pobox.com
    Residences: West Village, New York City and High Falls, NY
    Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by midnight.rover View Post
    If you need threadlocker, but have none, Maalox will work as well.
    Really? I never would have thought of Maalox as a thread locker.

    What's next? Ex-Lax to... ummm.... loosen things up?

  22. #522
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark9 View Post
    noglider,

    ... but furniture polish IME has oils and waxes intended to treat wood surfaces...
    I thought the same thing but am please with the result, if there was oil in it I believe I would have seen it on the paint or chrome finish. Will try your recommendation just to see if I like it better, thanks.

  23. #523
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by noglider View Post
    I think furniture polish in a spray can is the same as auto detailer, and I think it costs less. I'm using Endust, and you can use Pledge, too.
    Lemon Pledge has been recommended for cleaning unpainted Ti frames for decades. I've used it on both my bead-blasted and brushed finish Litespeed frames and it does a good cleaning job and leaves no sticky residue.

    As to Maalox as an "antifreeze"? Maybe as a leak stopper in a leaky radiator but I don't see how it will reduce the freezing point. It's just a suspension of Al(OH)3 Mg(OH)2 particles in water.

  24. #524
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    most off the shelf cone wrenches are junk. avoid the park double ended ones at all costs. they are virtually one time use.

    my best cone wrenches are ground down open ended wrenches. =]

  25. #525
    Keepin it Wheel RubeRad's Avatar
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    I knew that cone wrenches are one tool that is really worth it to pay more for quality (the cone wrenches that came in my Nashbar toolkit are crap -- still the kit is a good value for the rest of it), but I would have trusted Park.

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